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Stripped head bolt help

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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 07:02 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by The Deputy
If you have access to an acetylene torch, heat the bolt, let it cool, heat it again, let it cool and spray it with WD40. The heat should break the static bond.
Quick aside -- Will a propane torch like you might use to sweat a copper plumbing joint provide enough heat to do the trick in difficult situations like this, or is something "higher-caliber" like an acetylene torch needed?

And why WD-40 and not something like P. B. Blaster, please?

Originally Posted by The Deputy
Always use an impact, six-point socket for removing head bolts...they do not flex as much. Believe it or not...a chrome socket really gets out of shape during these types of situation, extreme torque values.
Off-topic here, I know, but I presume this is good advice to follow when removing and installing hub nuts, although I don't recall seeing it in those threads.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 01:32 PM
  #12  
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I totally agree 100% on using an impact 1/2 16mm socket on the head bolts!! On my last HG job I used a 3inch 1/2 extension with a short impact 1/2 16mm socket and I had issues reaching the back two HG bolts. I couldn't locate my 16mm deep impact socket, but the above setup actually worked better on the D1.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 01:58 PM
  #13  
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A 16mm impact SWIVEL socket is invaluable for the rear head bolts, especially on the driver side. It's more compact than a 16mm impact plus u-joint. Just one example is linked below.

Amazon Amazon
 
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 02:57 PM
  #14  
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Yep mine was also MIA lol but on a D1 I was able to get away with the very short extension and 16mm short impact socket. I've lost a decent amount of tools with all the projects and storms lol.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 05:06 PM
  #15  
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Thanks for the idea. Ordered. Also have some extractors in case. I hurt my shoulder so i have to wait a few days to let all the inflammation subside then its back to it.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 08:14 PM
  #16  
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I know the feeling! I'm still feeling the last few weekends of LR tinkering myself. First I did a complete HG job on my XD one weekend, then I helped a friend swap out his dead 4.0L which appears to have had both his connecting rod bolts come loose which then rattled around and ate the bearing, then the connecting rod itself came loose and jammed into the block and destroyed the dipstick and dipstick tube. We had a few issues as his replacement engine was from an automatic, and his D1 had a 5spd so a few extra steps had to be taken. Good news is the old block itself looks to be in excellent shape so a rebuild is possible. Then I had to help tow a 35ft camper one weekend due to Beta, and then I had to assist in the removal of my inlaws 35ft camper which got severely damaged after hurricane Laura up near Toledo Bend Lake. Then I fixed my XD's brake lines, and helped my friend use my 03 D2 dash and put it into his 96 D1.

I need a few weekends of relaxing, but I doubt that will happen until the 2020 HCRR event!
 
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Old Oct 6, 2020 | 02:42 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by mln01
Quick aside -- Will a propane torch like you might use to sweat a copper plumbing joint provide enough heat to do the trick in difficult situations like this, or is something "higher-caliber" like an acetylene torch needed?
May work, l've never really tried one...but it will take much longer.

And why WD-40 and not something like P. B. Blaster, please?
Just preference, not a big PB Blaster fan.

Off-topic here, I know, but I presume this is good advice to follow when removing and installing hub nuts, although I don't recall seeing it in those threads.
Personally, l always use impact sockets, especially if a torque value exceeds 60 foot pounds. Only time l might use a chrome socket, is if the sidewall thickness of an impact socket is to great.

 
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Old Oct 6, 2020 | 02:43 PM
  #18  
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This is not very helpful to the OP however I cracked three chrome plated sockets trying to get one head bolt off. Each time one cracked I thought I had finally gotten it loose due to the pop sound, only to find out it was another ruined socket. That is absolutely a first for me. I finally used a 5/8" impact socket. It's slightly undersized when compared to a 16mm, however I didn't know any better at the time and it worked for me.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 11:57 AM
  #19  
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Thanks for all the ideas. It was a combination of all that broke those puppies out. My shoulder is dead, but now i can put it all back together and see where it leaks now. Lol. Great group! When is the meetup? Lol
 
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