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stubborn rusted screws and nuts

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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 09:49 AM
  #1  
gbob's Avatar
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: North of Boston
Default stubborn rusted screws and nuts

So I have a really elementary question for you veteran mechanics: Best methods to remove rusted screws and bolts.

Heat and Monkey **** (wd-40) I know. Striking out with this method. Here's what I'm trying to do.

I need to remove the front bumper from my disco II to install a push plate (I plan to tow my '03 rover behind my motorhome) and install instructions for the push plate dictate removal of both LH and RH arch liners, as well as some screws attached to the front cross bar. Also, I'll have to remove some nuts that are affixed to the front crush cans and nuts to the bumper valence.

Some screws are pretty rusted out. Some of the phillip head screws are stripped.

Any suggestions?
Rob




 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 10:00 AM
  #2  
drowssap's Avatar
Baja
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From: Boston Strong
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first off WD-40 is a lubricant, it is not a penetrating oil.
Start by using PB Baster penetrating oil.
Sea Foam also make a very good but expensive penetrating product called Deep Creep.
Sears sell a set of screw extractor the that go in a drill, i've never had luck with them others have.
Personally I would drill the heads off the screw with a 1/4 bit and replace them after.

Oh and you can also use an electric solder iron to heat the heads on the screws,
another one I've never had much luck with.
 

Last edited by drowssap; Jun 13, 2013 at 11:39 AM.
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 10:52 AM
  #3  
Disco Mike's Avatar
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From: Denver, Colorado
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Or the new WD Profesional, I believe they call it. That along with Royal Purples new entry into the market give you lots to pict from, just make sure you give it engought time to work before removing the nuts.
Have you already rebuilt or replaced your front drive shaft, if not, that is the next item on your list.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 11:03 AM
  #4  
Racer X's Avatar
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From: Queens, NYC
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For the bolts where there's no plastic nearby:

1:1 Ratio of ATF and Acetone in a spray bottle, and a torch or an induction heater:

Great deal on Induction Innovations - MD-700 at ToolTopia.com

On the fender liner screws, use a dremel to cut a slot into the screw head, and use a big flathead screwdriver.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 04:48 PM
  #5  
gbob's Avatar
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Rock Crawling
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From: North of Boston
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Thanks guys for your suggestions.

I used one of those really cool BBQ/charcoal lighter thing a ma jigs to heat the screws, but no luck. My bad on the wd-40, but I do have the penetrating spray (seafoam) that I used as well. Still no luck. So now I have a fantastic excuse to tell my wife that I need one of those really groovy dremal tools with all the attachments. Let's hope this tool works. Yea, maybe I'm the last one on the planet who doesn't already own a dremal tool. Oh well.

To Disco Mike: I'm the 2nd owner of the disco and purchased it a few months back. Front drive shaft has a nipple on it, so I suspect the previous owner had it replaced or when the disco rolled off the assembly line, it already had a newer version of the drive shaft. What I am more concerned with is the oil pump....seems as though my VIN number is one of those numbers in the "dead zone." Cross my fingers and hope everything holds up for a number of years.

One last quickie....can I purchase these screws that I'm certain will need to be replaced at my local box store?
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 11:17 PM
  #6  
Red_Liner740's Avatar
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From: Toronto, Ontario
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If the local store carries Metric i dont see why not....but if you're replacing them might as well upgrade to stainless....gotta love stainless.

I just bought a set of these and absolute love them...exhaust manifold studs that snapped off extracted out like nothing with these and an air tools...i also have a set of drill and extract extractors but those arent close to the heavy duty as these are.

 
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 02:52 PM
  #7  
dr. mordo's Avatar
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From: Tampa, FL
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I have been known to use a dremel loaded with cutting wheel on frozen nuts/bolts.

Works great.
 
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