A friend thinks maybe the colant is leaking in the heater core, not a HG. Can I simply re-route the coolant so that it never enters the heater as a way to check? I really do not want to do a HG for nothing, or pull the motor for nothing.
Doesn't this motor have a throttle body and not injectors? Why would one cylindar have more fuel than the others?

 

So pressure test the system. If the carpet is wet inside, you know its the heter core.

I think you need to learn how electronic fuel injection works by reading even the most basic description. You either don't understand the concept or don't know the names of the components.

 

It has a throttle body, but it doesn't have TBI, or throttle body injection, like an old chevy or honda civic. You have multipoint fuel injection, so you have an injector for each cylinder. Unfortunately on the Bosch Motronic system we have, the injectors are hidden under the upper intake, so you cannot see them very easily.

 

Could a defective injector, put enough fuel in the cylindar to cause the motor to not want to turn over (hydrolock)? And then could this be the issue with the starter? I still have the potential coolant leak and plan to do a pressure test... just asking. Thanks for your help.

 

It's possible, but not likely. It's also not difficult to test, just pull the plugs.

If you're hydrolocked, the smart money is on a cylinder being filled with coolant, not fuel.

 

Ok, took the inspection plate off and dang it... how in the heck can you see the ring gear teeth without a telescoping mirror? Flashlight in hand, and could not see any teeth. Also, Rubber plugs on both sides of the block? Why?

 

The holes line up with the torque converter bolts.

 

With D2_Workshop manual in hand... today I am removing the motor from my truck with the intent to: replace the ring gear, and HG.

Any suggestions of other important things to do while the motor is on the motor stand?

I also had seen the link to all the replacement parts for this project... anyone know which thread?

Thanks!

02, DII 120k
98 VW Cabrio 129k
75 MG Midget 67k
94 BMW 525i 209k
08 Acura TSX 34k

 

dont know the thread, but you will need:
head gasket set
head bolt set
upper intake gastet
RTV
Thermostat
coolant
plugs
oil
filter

my list included:
timing chain set
waterpump
hoses

 

You'll probably need exhaust manifold studs and nuts as well. And new collector gaskets.

And you'll want to reseal the throttle body heater.

Start soaking the transmission cooler disconnects in penetrating oil now. If they're anything like mine were they will be a problem.

You'll also need 4 to 6 inch long 3/8" coarse thread bolts and spacers (depending on your engine stand) to mount it and have enough space to work in the back.

Might as well replace the rear main seal if you have the ring gear off.

And get a bunch of lengths of different sized of split loom. You'll have good access to the wiring harness with the motor out, and you almost definitely have worn through the loom in several places (the right side knock sensor is particularly bad on most motors I've seen) so you may as well just replace it all while it's easy.

Also, keep track of the dowel pins on either side of the motor or bell housing when you take the engine out. If you don't get them both back in, it's a bitch to line up the bell housing. I lost track of one and already had the motor against the bell housing. It was not fun to line back up again on the side that was missing the dowel.