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So I changed the CPS last July, and since dec have changed XYZ Switch, master brake cylinder, replaced small part on throttle body, hmm let’s see brake light switch and prob more I can’t think of. Still have had SES light throughout this whole time: last read said codes P1171 P0171 P0130 P1590, it’s been running okay except sometimes after driving then parking I get back in it and it won’t start just click click BUT if I put it in N and roll it back a little then it’ll start right up. Now last night was driving came to a red light and it just straight died in middle of road complete shut off. Tried to start this time it would crank over like you heard the noise trying to start (like if you kept trying prob would flood it) tried a cpl more times finally I put it in N let it roll back on the road maybe just a few inches and then bam started up again. What is this???? It’s confusing the **** out of me and idk what do to or where to start. Help plz??
I just did a MAF sensor test I found online, when my engine was running I disconnected the harness thing and it stumbled for a split second but kept running. So that video says that means my MAF is bad. Would this be causing my issues stated above?
So you think the way I did it was wrong? I don’t have a volt meter yet I did order a code scanner that should be here soon and I went ahead and ordered o2 sensors and a new MAF bc I pulled mine like the video I watched said it stumbled a sec but engine continued to run so the video said if your engine stays on your maf is bad, I just can’t find anything stating if a bad MAF would be causing the issues I have :-/
So you think the way I did it was wrong? I don’t have a volt meter yet I did order a code scanner that should be here soon and I went ahead and ordered o2 sensors and a new MAF bc I pulled mine like the video I watched said it stumbled a sec but engine continued to run so the video said if your engine stays on your maf is bad, I just can’t find anything stating if a bad MAF would be causing the issues I have :-/
Melissa
Hi
When you disconnect the MAF plug the engine ECU then runs in a 'default' mode which doesn't affect it much but it does restrict the power and burn more fuel.
A good diag tool should give you a reading of the MAF voltage and when connected pull the MAF plug out to ensure it returns to zero or near zero. Don't reconnect the MAF with the engine running or in position 2 though as the electrical 'shock' might kill the MAF.
PS: Check whether your MAF has a 3 wire or 4 wire connection and then post it on the forum. The MAF wires can be seen easily as the outer cover doesn't reach the MAF plug.
Last edited by OffroadFrance; Mar 19, 2018 at 10:59 AM.
When you disconnect the MAF plug the engine ECU then runs in a 'default' mode which doesn't affect it much but it does restrict the power and burn more fuel.
A good diag tool should give you a reading of the MAF voltage and when connected pull the MAF plug out to ensure it returns to zero or near zero. Don't reconnect the MAF with the engine running or in position 2 though as the electrical 'shock' might kill the MAF.
PS: Check whether your MAF has a 3 wire or 4 wire connection and then post it on the forum. The MAF wires can be seen easily as the outer cover doesn't reach the MAF plug.
okay mine has 5. And so I’m sorry I’m not reading what you’re saying. So are you saying the test I did (unplugging the connector while engine is running) isn’t going to tell me if bad? If so then so I prob ordered a part I don’t need? Ugh I really thought I had figured out my issue bc made sense why the codes being throw were like too rich or too lean cause I thought maybe too much air or whatever was being let in etc 😭
Also it would help me greatly if I knew wth this one exactly was. A Land Rover repair only shop in a city down here told me it was a discovery II bc my title doesn’t say that but I just checked vin and I’m getting Discovery HSE 4.6 liter I also ran into online asking me if 6 4.6 or 4 4.6 and I honestly don’t know but attached is pic to make sure I am answering the pin connect correctly cause you ask 3 or 4 and I count 5 🤷*♀️
I also just found some bad and or missing fuses so need to take care of that and there was a 30 where a 40 should be
The "click-click" while trying to start sounds like a bad ground wire, possibly at engine alternator bracket, or battery itself. Or the starter is going bad.
The deputy~ you know that keeps going through my head but here’s the thing I’ve replaced the starter 2x! So once last year like idk maybe August and then so this crap kept happening and I said well it’s got a lifetime warranty and when it did it again i got under it and started tapping the starter and ask my friend to start the rover and it started. So I went and replaced the starter under the warranty and put a whole new one on again just last month. So you think I’ve now gotten a 2nd bad starter? Is that possible?
Where are the starters coming from? I've had no problems with the Auto Zone refurb's I've bought for several customers in the past. I have had issues with a few from Oreilly's. Online I've also used several new Starters/Alternators from "Parts Player" with very good results.
I would certainly look into replacing or making absolutely sure that the large starter cable is in good condition at the starter, and inside the fuse block under the hood. Also check your grounds connecting to your engine. One comes from the fuse block area to the engine either mounted up by the alternator or down slightly lower on the same bracket. The other ground is on the drivers side and it goes from the bulkhead to the head.
Sudden die or won’t start
