Yes, I'm not completely bought on Key/Security being the issue, although P1668 popped up under "pending", along with P0420 & P134, all under pending faults again, the same as last time it left me stranded on a different stoplight.
Mechanic says not issues with fuel pump, although no power to injectors or plugs.
What are the chances of a recently installed BOSCH CSP sensor going bad within 20 days of installation? if so, what may be damaging them? Also, plug that connects to CSP sensor comes directly from ECU?
Not knowing what to look for is frustrating, and even if I get it to start, the possibility of it leaving me stranded again like it has the two last times is a pain in the butt, don't like playing roulette. ;-/#

 

you can check the cps sensor wiring

also the cps sensor has spacers on the bolts. Not sure if it would work if you forgot to install them

I would check the wiring to sensor.

 

I cannot determine where the wiring comes from or thru, but I did install the spacers correctly when I installedthe BOSCH; in fact, it had been working fine for the past 20 days.
After seeing a video, I think the mechanic that replaced the original CSP with the generic one, routed the cable through the wrong place to connect it; I say this after reviewing a video where the person suggested that it was easier to unplug/plug it from the top of the engine, since you could reach it from atop; I did not know this when I went in to put the new Bosch, and the connector was only accessible from the bottom, so I did not correct it. But truck ran fine. If need to replace CSP again, I'll look into this.

 

Wiring comes out of the main loom running over the top of the engine from the passenger side firewall. We have had forum members experience bad Bosch sensors out of the box, not sure on lifetime. You need a spare CPS if you are going to drive a Disco anyway. Get a new one and try it, if it does not fix it congratulations you have a spare. If it does congratulations you fixed it. You can trace the CPS sensor wire from the ECU to the connector using the RAVE wiring diagram manual using ohm meter and some long jumper wires.

 

..:: UPDATE ::..

Just came from the mechanic and he is still focusing on immobilizer being activated, due to all power being cut off to fuel pump, spark plug wires, injectors, etc... plus the P1668 code being present, and the fact the FOB not in working condition. He discards the new CSP sensor being damaged, since he mentioned testing it and turning out fine, not sure how he tested it, but did mention checking signal and being fine. So at this point he is still confident the immobilizer is playing a role here, and recommends gutting a new FOB and programming it to free up the immobilization.

So I'm scratching my head on this one and not quite sure which way to go. Yes, I've been wanting to get a new key since I had this truck and be able to open and close doors by pressing a button, but not quite sure this is the actual culprit to go ahead and get this done now; heck I've driven this truck for over 7yrs without an inmobilizing issue, but code has come up twice in last 30 days.

Last time it came up, also as a "pending fault", was when truck left me stranded 20 days ago in a similar fashion. But I towed it home, found some lose spark plug wires, reconnected them, and replaced the new generic CSP sensor installed with a new BOSCH sensor; did not put the cover back on because I was missing the bolts then, but heck, the truck was running fine.

Now, no spark plug wires lose, just CSP without the cover, and truck died in similar fashion, it simply shut off while waiting for light to turn green; no sputters, no indicators, simply shut down as if turning the key to OFF.

So I have 2 options, move forward with mechanic's suggestion of being the immobilizer the issue, get a new FOB, program it and hope it solves it; or get a new sensor, replace it, put the cover back on, and also hope it solves it, as it did 20 days ago. Either way it seems to be trial and error.

His trusted locksmith for this job won't be able to work on it unti next week,, so that gives me a couple days to test the new CSP option.

Let me know your thoughts, thanks!

 

I thought you had fuel pressure ?
I know you want the mechanic to do his this but going down the route of getting fob programming it etc could get expensive.

no harm in changing the cps sensor again and really checking the wires for shorts melted wires touching manifold etc.

 

You really really really need the cover over the CPS. It is probably getting hot & they stall out.

 

Over the phone yesterday he mentioned he did have fuel pressure, or that’s what I understood he said; but this morning -in person- confirmed no power to anything (injectors, fuel pump, spark plug wires) and without power he couldn't test further; adding the pending P1668 code and actual banged up FOB key to the mix, is what has him focusing on immobilizer being the issue. Although it makes some sense, why would the immobilizer all of a sudden activate itself without notice while waiting for a green light? My FOB hasn't been an issue these years, although it has been something I've been wanting to take care of, but since no issues before, it wasn't on top of my list.

Yes, it could get expensive, but he mentions $600 aprox, not clear if new FOB is included, or just the programming; but I think FOB needs to be ordered directly from a dealer, and we all know how that may go; anyways, if done, it would be by his "trusted" locksmith/programmer whom is now in Naples and will get back next week, giving me plenty of time to try again swapping CSP sensors. For this I'll have a friend help me tow it to my workplace, which is nearby, and have the space to work on the swap myself. If that doesn't work, then I might consider the FOB programming route.

I already claimed the warranty for the CSP sensor from Rockauto, and it should arrive next week. Like you said, and others also suggest, it will not hurt changing it again, I'm just getting good at it. So far I've replaced the original sensor with a generic from AAP (which worked until I got stranded approximately 20 days ago ...replaced it with a new BOSCH from Rockauto, and after getting stranded yesterday, will replace it again next week and see how it goes. I still have the original and the one from AAP, in case I want to try each of them again while the new one arrives, we'll see.
Fact is that after last swap, that P1668 code did not appear again, not even under "pending".

I'll keep you guys posted but this puzzle is killing me!

Thanks!

 

Yes, it is definitely going back on now that I found replacement bolts for it.

As well as looking for the correct placement of the connector, since I think the mechanic that swapped the original with the generic from AAP, routed the connector down a different path, so I only have access to it from the bottom, and I understand that it is supposed to be reachable and visible from atop, but not sure though, still looking for pics.

 

P1668 wise I've always seen those pending when the D2 either has a low charged battery, weak output alternator, dirty terminals, dirty ground, or the vehicle has sat and the doors have been opened/closed multiple times (like being cleaned or at a shop). Alarm wise you normally would get a red light going bananas on the dash.