Thanks Extinct! ...I was also thinking of holding it together with perhaps a thin wire, but a zip tie would be best, considering I have to do it all with just one hand, since it is a hard place to reach laying on the floor. I tried to pull it towards the wall of the wheel well, to a hook where I think it actually attaches to, from what I saw in a RAVE drawing, but I can't make it to move there, but I'll try again. Thing is that eventhough it seems to be connected but not fastened to drive around, truck still does not start, just as with the one I removed.
Unfortunately I do not have the tools or knowledge to test if pump has pressure, but with a voltmeter I'm sure I would be able to test at fusebox for voltage, right?
Mechanic where I had it last week suggested it was a security lockout issue, since no voltage at fuel pump or sparks, he considered CSP was good, but I decided to claim the warranty and install the new one, hoping I would get another shot of luck, but no luck.
He wanted me to get a locksmith to try that route, which seems to be one of your suggestions if no voltage. Mechanic also mentioned that Inertia switch seemed to be OK, not sure how he tested it. This situation has me down some, since all three places I've taken it had been able to solve anything. The times I've got it to run -first for a couple days, then for 20 days, have been with the help from this forum, but current situation has me thinking that I'm running out of luck. Anyways, will try and put your suggestions to work and see how it goes, thanks again!

 

Have you checked the insulation around the cps wire. You may have to lie on top of engine. If the wire wasn’t secured could have touched the hot exhaust manifold causing issues ?

you can also get a fuel pressure guage to test your pressures.


to bad these mechanics these days don’t spend actual time troubleshooting instead they want you out the door quick quick
and they have access to all tools and wiring instructions diagrams etc

 

...from what I see from the bottom looking up, the wire does not reach the manifold, and to what I can follow since it goes upward behind the engine, it seems to still be within the protective plastic tubing that I guess goes up to the cable loom that you find running from passenger to driver side in top rear of engine bay, but not 100% sure it is intact up to the cable loom. Anyways, I'll try and look closer to be certain.

I will look into the fuel pressure gauge, thanks for the tip.

And yes, first I went was a guy I know, but although he had it for nearly a week, tried to do all by ear and said it was a timing chain issue. Second one had it for nearly two weeks, and at least replaced the first CSP sensor, took all the plugs out, did not get it to start, and failed to see the broken wire that may me want to tackle the issue myself. The third mechanic is someone that has worked on my truck before, is not a LR-savvy mechanic, but I trust he did try to check as much as he could, but when not being able to read voltage on sparks and fuel pump to check further, focused his attention on being a FOB related issue.
Unfortunately I can only go as far as I physically can, with the tools I can get my hands on, and with the tips and knowledge I can get from you guys, since like you say, it's hard to find a mechanic out there willing to troubleshoot and find solutions, instead of easy jobs.

 

Ok, read through most of the thread again. These type of things are best if you work through all the diagnostics at once. Sometimes I find it is good to take notes. Here is what we have so far:

1. Died at the light - suggest CPS or fuel pump, would be unusual for it to be immobilizer
2. CPS is changed
3. Did not see firm confirmation, but you have not mentioned security LED blinking when you unlock the truck so unlikely it is immobilized.
Not much else of value with the other mechanics

Diagnostics:

You need three things for it to run: Fire, Fuel, Compression, all at the right times.

1. Compression - rent a compresion tester at the local auto parts stores, test all the cylinders.
2. Fuel pressure - Oreilly has a fuel pressure test kit you can use for free. Other auto parts stores may have similar. In a pinch you can use a tire gauge. If you don't have fuel pressure, could be immobilized, could be a bad fuel pump. You can check voltage at the fuel pump, if you have voltage but no pressure you have a bad fuel pump.
3. You can squirt fuel in to the intake and see if it pops, indicating the coils and wires are firing.
4. You can check for spark with plugs, if you have spark it is not immobilized.
5. If it is immobilized, the LED should blink unless burnt out. Lock the truck and make sure the LED blinks. Unlock the truck and make sure the LED is not blinking.
6. If the truck is immobilized, you can use hte rave manual to check why. Likely is ignition lock cylinder immobilizer coil.
7. If none of the above, you could have a bad ECU or BCU, but that is very rare. You can buy a set off of ebay and resell it for what you paid for it if it does not work - zero net cost.

Report your findings and we will go from there. Use the numbers above with the results so I can track it.

 

Thanks for the detailed steps, greatly appreciated!

Just to confirm, what you wrote under "what we have so far" is accurate, that's what happened last week after 20 days of running fine.

As per security LED blink; my FOB does not work, so I lock/unlock from door lock; when I lock, LED blinks fast for 15 secs aprox, then slows down to 2-3 secs intervals, which I think is correct. When I unlock, LED remains off; if locking from dash button when inside car, no LED blinks. Hope this helps.

I'll review your "diagnostics" list and get ready to try and do them all in order and report back,, again, thanks for the great help.

 

Any fix on this ???

 

These items need to be verified, like Extinct mentions, otherwise you're just guessing at a solution.

Verify, verify, verify...is the only way to truly diagnosis an issue. If you can't do this, you'll need to find someone who can.

 

...thanks for following up guys, unfortunately I haven't yet, but planning to do so this coming week.

I also contacted two well recommended LR mechanics in this forum that work in my area. Both seem to be very tied up at the moment, and with no current capacity to receive my Disco, but willing to do so by the end of August, in case I still not get it to run. So I have those two cards up my sleeve if I fail to verify following EXTINCT's detailed road map.

I'll keep you all updated soon, thanks again.

 

Hello Roverers!

Sad to report that after nearly 3 months since my last post, Disco still does not start.

After asking around, I was recommended to a mechanic in Pompano which has been trying to pinpoint the non-starting issue; When truck was delivered to his shop, after jumping it it did start and he was able to drive it into his shop, but have only started once more after that initial start. He has checked from back to front meticulously, swapped some parts and possible culprits, but still no clue why it does not start. He is down to the fuse box being the possible culprit, basically the underdash one, but have been having a very hard time trying to find a loaner o a replacement to rule that out. I've contacted a couple sellers on Ebay with no luck yet, so if anyone here knows where I may be able to find one, please drop me a message. Hopefully it would get my issue sorted out. Thanks All!

 

They're usually all over eBay.
Make sure that you get the correct one for your model year. The 1999-2002 boxes are different from the later ones.