Yeah, hoping this solves it. Next step is compression test....

 

That voltage is below minimum, 13.6 to 14.4 is required.
Get all those codes cleared once you get the voltage issue resolved and see what shows up again.
By the way, the crank sensor code may is your stalling/starting problem so get one installed and see where it all goes.

 

Sorry, I might not have been clear. The battery (completely independently) was/is putting out ~12.5V (which is right 6 cells @ ~2.1V/cell). The alternator, at idle, was putting out 13.8V (i.e. >13.6V so also good).

I cleared the codes, and they haven't reappeared yet (knock wood). I was suspicious of the crank sensor, so I ordered a new one from BPofU when I ordered the plug wires.

On a seperate note, I checked the location and access to my coils. You guys that change your plug wires w/o removing the plenum must have hands like a 12 year old girl! Needless to say, I ordered the gasket and plan on removing the upper intake.

 

i had to use the screwdriver/lecky tape trick to get the wires into the coils

 

Hell, I can't even see the coils!!! The wires seem to disappear into nowhere! I guess I will find out soon enough where they go.

 

I checked the battery and it was apparently bad - one cell dropping out under load. The good news was that it was a Duralast Gold with warranty remaining. So I've got a new battery for <$50.

However still have to swap the CPK. Anyone have any advice as to how to unplug the sensor?

 

Well, even after the new battery, she didn't want to start. Finally got her started for the 1.5 mile drive home. She stalled again on the way home and I rolled into the driveway! I let her cool down and launched into replacing the CPK.

What a miserable task that was! 90% of the job is getting the old one unplugged and the new one plugged in!! Anyway, 90 minutes later it was swapped and she started on the first crank!

Now, on to the 8mm wires and the Bosch 4+ plugs...