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Suggestions about top hat liners?

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  #11  
Old 06-28-2015, 11:08 PM
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You won't be able to hear the noise driving.

Open the hood and manipulate the throttle by hand. If the tick follows the rpm range, it might be a lifter.

Get an engine flush and put in while the truck is running.

If the tick disappears, lifter. Just make sure you drain a and refill oil after the cleanse. Don't run the cleanse for more than 15 mins, 10 is the most I do.
 
  #12  
Old 06-28-2015, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by disc oh no
The best thing to do is just ignore it and run regular oil in it. These engines are highly defective. No amount of BS additives are going to fix the tick, regardless of what the bottle (or the internet) says. For some reason many of these ticking problems get worse with thicker oil.
That's an opinion that I completely disagree with. The post immediately before yours squashes that notion. I'm not saying to throw everything on the shelf at it, but gone about in a methodical way, depending on whichever mechanical function of the engine which is needing assistance, you can eventually reach a resolution and revel in the success of your accomplishment then boast about it to guys who think like you.
 
  #13  
Old 06-28-2015, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by erick846
If your tap is exactly the same as the video, your problem is probably not lifters. I've had the lifters done for about $1200 on my truck about 4 months ago with Land Rover genuine OEM lifters. Tapped away directly after the repair (exact same noise as above). I also had lash caps installed to pick up the slack if a lifter sticks, and that didn't help either.

When I first got my 03 last year, I had many of the same hopes as you, that additives will do the trick. None of them worked for me. Just like you, every mechanic I've taken it to thought it was a lifter problem (and/or a valve issue), but were baffled when I told them the lifters were brand new.

Another thing that it could be is maybe the cam lobes are worn off the camshaft but I'm not sure the process I should go through to diagnose for sure. I don't want to drop another $1200 and have it not fix the problem anyways.
Now I know why you are discouraged. I hate to hear that. I don't know much about flex plates or what it does but there is a thread on here and it tells how you can check it for cracks from underneath without having to remove much of anything if I remember correctly. It says the tick went away so that's something simple to check into before you start analyzing the block since you don't think it's anything on the top-end
 
  #14  
Old 06-29-2015, 05:34 AM
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Drop you 15w40 oil and use 5w40. There is a Rotella 5w40. Blue bottle if I remember correctly.

That's a great first step.
 
  #15  
Old 06-29-2015, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by abran
You won't be able to hear the noise driving.

Open the hood and manipulate the throttle by hand. If the tick follows the rpm range, it might be a lifter.

Get an engine flush and put in while the truck is running.

If the tick disappears, lifter. Just make sure you drain a and refill oil after the cleanse. Don't run the cleanse for more than 15 mins, 10 is the most I do.
It does follow the RPM range. When I'm driving, I do hear the tick, so I'm not sure what to tell you. I can even faintly hear it when I'm on highways and it's not busy :P
 
  #16  
Old 06-29-2015, 06:48 AM
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i "believe" once you hit a particular rpm, the noise will go away even it it is a sleeve.

At some point the piston speed is going to override the sleeve, and the sleeve will not hit the top of the stroke.
 
  #17  
Old 06-29-2015, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
i "believe" once you hit a particular rpm, the noise will go away even it it is a sleeve.

At some point the piston speed is going to override the sleeve, and the sleeve will not hit the top of the stroke.
Haha well then what I have must not be a sleeve, because even going 70mph i can hear the tap if its not windy or loud because of traffic. Only if speed is consistent though, no accelerating
 
  #18  
Old 06-29-2015, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by erick846
It does follow the RPM range. When I'm driving, I do hear the tick, so I'm not sure what to tell you. I can even faintly hear it when I'm on highways and it's not busy :P
I guess my point was that ambient noise would drown out the noise, I could hear my stuck lifter if there was a wall for the noise to bounce off of, not that it didn't exist.
 
  #19  
Old 06-29-2015, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by chubbs878
That's an opinion that I completely disagree with. The post immediately before yours squashes that notion. I'm not saying to throw everything on the shelf at it, but gone about in a methodical way, depending on whichever mechanical function of the engine which is needing assistance, you can eventually reach a resolution and revel in the success of your accomplishment then boast about it to guys who think like you.
Yeah, I read the post before. He got lucky, the tap is not normally a lifter. The lifters are surprisingly tough unlike the rest of the truck. lol
Mine didn't go away until I removed the cam bearing that fell out of the block. I tried a couple of the suggested oils and cleaners, to no avail. What would usually happen is, the tick would go away for a day or two sometimes... and other times it wouldn't. Sometimes it would even go away for a week or so, but it always came back. Until I took the junk bearing out. It's made it several years now without the tap, so I'm 70% sure I found it! I'm still half expecting it to come back again, I lived with it for so long. lol!!
 
  #20  
Old 06-30-2015, 02:25 AM
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Pin the liners. Normally not a proponent, but in your case, it's $25, a day of effort and if it doesn't fix your problem, you prevented a future one. If your rusted rear end falls off, your not out a lot of money.
 


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