Superlock
#12
08-20-2011, 06:15 PM
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Location: Denver, Colorado
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Because Mike we all know what happens when you use the super lock and the battery goes dead.
You cannot get into the truck without breaking a window or stripping a bare spot onto the battery cable at the starter to get power to the truck so you can unlock it.
Or breaking the grill so you can pop the hood open to charge the battery.
Super lock is a nice feature, but why use it?
You cannot get into the truck without breaking a window or stripping a bare spot onto the battery cable at the starter to get power to the truck so you can unlock it.
Or breaking the grill so you can pop the hood open to charge the battery.
Super lock is a nice feature, but why use it?
#13
08-20-2011, 06:17 PM
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Ran, you might want to look in your extended Federal and State emission warranty section, some states cover 02 sensors as well as Cats and a few other feature for up to 8 years in some areas.
#14
08-21-2011, 09:34 AM
Front door cable issue
Working on the doors. Here is the problem/solution for the front driver's interior handle:
1. I could hear the cable moving, but it did not release the door catch.
2. Removed door panel per instructions.
3. Cable end out of cable end bracket. See first picture.
4. Reinstalled in bracket - still lose - used zip ties to secure. See second picture.
5. Reinstalled door panel. Three of the long screws are missing. Heading to parts store.
Works, now onto the rear passenger door issue.
1. I could hear the cable moving, but it did not release the door catch.
2. Removed door panel per instructions.
3. Cable end out of cable end bracket. See first picture.
4. Reinstalled in bracket - still lose - used zip ties to secure. See second picture.
5. Reinstalled door panel. Three of the long screws are missing. Heading to parts store.
Works, now onto the rear passenger door issue.
#15
09-26-2011, 09:19 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Tyler, TX
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Need help!!
I was working to remove the non-fuctioning door locks this weekend when my neighbor's kid broke their arm on a trampoline. During all the confusion the wind blew the passenger rear door shut while I had only 1 torque head bolt snugged up holding the latch and the door was in the locked postion with the power cable to the door lock unplugged. The door appears to be "superlocked" but after plugging it all back in and pressing the bottons on the key fob and turning the key in the driver door and pressing the interior unlock button it will not "un-superlock" so it is stuck closed with the interior panel off.
I poked, push, forced and just about everything else I could think of to get the door opened so I can either finish getting the latch out to replace the lock motor or just get it all put together and deal with the fact the power lock doesn't work.
How do you get the door to un-superlock?
I was working to remove the non-fuctioning door locks this weekend when my neighbor's kid broke their arm on a trampoline. During all the confusion the wind blew the passenger rear door shut while I had only 1 torque head bolt snugged up holding the latch and the door was in the locked postion with the power cable to the door lock unplugged. The door appears to be "superlocked" but after plugging it all back in and pressing the bottons on the key fob and turning the key in the driver door and pressing the interior unlock button it will not "un-superlock" so it is stuck closed with the interior panel off.
I poked, push, forced and just about everything else I could think of to get the door opened so I can either finish getting the latch out to replace the lock motor or just get it all put together and deal with the fact the power lock doesn't work.
How do you get the door to un-superlock?
#16
09-26-2011, 10:07 AM
Super Moderator
Here' a thought: unplug the connection from the inertia switch in the engine compartment. Would it be as easy as pulling fuse 13 below? Also, it would appear that each door has a CDL motor and a superlock door motor, perhaps access the wire for that.
From the RAVE:
switch is reset.
on an NS wire to the Intelligent Driver Module (IDM) in the passenger compartment fusebox.
�� A KS wire is connected from the fusebox, via header C0292 LHD/C0285 RHD, to the
From the RAVE:
An inertia switch is located in the engine compartment. In the event of a collision, the inertia
switch will trip. When the inertia switch is tripped with the ignition on and the alarm disarmed,
all doors will automatically unlock and locking of the doors will be prevented until the inertia
switch will trip. When the inertia switch is tripped with the ignition on and the alarm disarmed,
all doors will automatically unlock and locking of the doors will be prevented until the inertia
switch is reset.
CDL OPERATION
Inertia switch
When the inertia switch contact is closed (switch not tripped) the feed from fuse 13 in the
engine compartment fusebox passes through the switch and is connected on a WG wire to
the engine compartment fusebox. The feed passes through the fusebox and is connected
Inertia switch
When the inertia switch contact is closed (switch not tripped) the feed from fuse 13 in the
engine compartment fusebox passes through the switch and is connected on a WG wire to
the engine compartment fusebox. The feed passes through the fusebox and is connected
on an NS wire to the Intelligent Driver Module (IDM) in the passenger compartment fusebox.
The electronic relays in the passenger compartment fusebox supply power feeds or earth
paths for each door lock motor as necessary. Each door lock motor is connected to the
passenger compartment fusebox as follows:
Front LH/RH (driver's) door lock motor:
paths for each door lock motor as necessary. Each door lock motor is connected to the
passenger compartment fusebox as follows:
Front LH/RH (driver's) door lock motor:
��
A KR wire is connected from the fusebox to the LH/RH front CDL motor.
��
A KP wire is connected from the fusebox, via header C0292 LHD/C0291 RHD, to the
LH/RH front superlock motor and the LH/RH front CDL motor.
LH/RH front superlock motor and the LH/RH front CDL motor.
��
A KS wire is connected from the fusebox, via header C0292 LHD/C0285 RHD, to the
LH/RH front superlock motor.
Front LH/RH (Passenger) door lock motor:
LH/RH front superlock motor.
Front LH/RH (Passenger) door lock motor:
��
A KR wire is connected from the fusebox, via header C0292 LHD/C0290 RHD, to the
LH/RH front CDL motor.
LH/RH front CDL motor.
��
A KP wire is connected from the fusebox, via header C0292 LHD/C0291 RHD, to the
LH/RH front superlock motor and the LH/RH front CDL motor.
LH/RH front superlock motor and the LH/RH front CDL motor.
��
A KS wire is connected from the fusebox, via header C0292 LHD/C0285 RHD, to the
LH/RH front superlock motor.
LH rear passenger door lock motor:
LH/RH front superlock motor.
LH rear passenger door lock motor:
��
A KR wire is connected from the fusebox, via header C0292 LHD/C0290 RHD, and
header C0761, to the LH rear CDL motor.
header C0761, to the LH rear CDL motor.
��
A KP wire is connected from the fusebox, via header C0292 LHD/C0291 RHD, to the
LH rear superlock motor and the LH rear CDL motor.
LH rear superlock motor and the LH rear CDL motor.
��
A KS wire is connected from the fusebox, via header C0292 LHD/C0285 RHD, to the
LH rear superlock motor.
RH rear passenger door lock motor:
LH rear superlock motor.
RH rear passenger door lock motor:
��
A KR wire is connected from the fusebox, via header C0292 LHD/C0290 RHD and
header C0761, to the RH rear CDL motor.
header C0761, to the RH rear CDL motor.
��
A KP wire is connected from the fusebox, via header C0292 LHD/C0291 RHD to the
RH rear CDL motor and the RH rear superlock motor.
RH rear CDL motor and the RH rear superlock motor.
��
A KS wire is connected from the fusebox, via header C0292 LHD/C0285 RHD, to the
RH rear superlock motor.
Tail door lock motor:
RH rear superlock motor.
Tail door lock motor:
��
A KR wire is connected from the fusebox, via header C0292 LHD/C0290 RHD, to the
tail door CDL motor.
tail door CDL motor.
��
A KP wire is connected from the fusebox, via header C0292 LHD/C0291 RHD, to the
tail door CDL motor and the tail door superlock motor.
tail door CDL motor and the tail door superlock motor.
�� A KS wire is connected from the fusebox, via header C0292 LHD/C0285 RHD, to the
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 09-26-2011 at 10:11 AM.
#18
09-28-2011, 01:03 PM
Super Moderator
First, since this could be an electrical problem, be sure battery is fully charged (check with meter), and that battery cables and large cables in fuse box are clean, tight, no corrosion. A little voltage loss can cause all sorts of gremlins.
From looking at the schematic (RAVE) :
+ battery goes thru engine compartment fuse box, link 3 (50 amp) to passenger compartment fuse box fuse 1 (25 amp) that feeds relays that switch power to both locking and superlocking motors.
The inertia switch routes through the underhood fuse box, it gets + voltage from fuse 13 in the underhood box. So unplugging fuse 13 (10 amp) is like tripping the inertia switch (beating truck with large hammer is not a good idea, Disco's have long memory and take pleasure in leaving you stranded in the worst place at the worst time).
The inertia switch supplies + 12 to a device in the passenger fuse box marked as the IDM. It controls the coils of four relays, and those relays switch voltage to superlock and regular lock motors. It gets a + volts from inertia switch normal and a feed from the BCU.
I would hope that if key is turned on in iginition, alarm not tripped or armed, and you remove underhood fuse 13, you have simulated a crash and that the IDM will pulse all lock motors to unlock.
From the passenger fuse box, going to all doors, the Pink/purple is common to both regular and superlock motors.
The Pink/ Slate (gray) goes to all superlock motors.
The Pink/Red go to all regular lock motors (there are two of these wires, same color).
The Pink/Purple goes to the common point between superlock and regular motors.
Here is where my theory begins. When you lock a door, you hear a clunk. When you unlock, you hear a clunk. But we know that the direction of the force applied to the mechanical lock is reversed - the exposed lock button goes up or down. So I believe that the wiring and switches are set up to send positive voltage to operate the lock motor momentarily, and send negative voltage to momentarily to make it operate in the reverse direction. I don't think the lock motors have constant power on them when the doors are closed and the engine is off, because that would drain the battery.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING FIRST!
If you have access to the passenger compartment fuse box:
Remove engine compartment fuse 13.
Remove passenger compartment fuses 1 and 20
At this point there should be no power on the locking system.
Remove the four lock controlling relays, if they unplug. With relays un-powered, they are holding the pink/gray, pink/reds, and pink/purple at ground. If relays don't unplug, will have to cut the pink/slate and pink/purple. Apply 12 volts + and - to the two wires. Should lock, or unlock, depending on polarity. If does not unlock, swap wires and try again.
Does all this sound really complicated? You bet, they didn't want to make it easy. What we are doing is getting between the superlock and regular lock door motors and what controls them, and putting in our own battery.
Of course, this is just a theory, and I don't have a D2 to experiment on. And it assumes you are inside, just can't get things to work.
Would double check with a meter fuses 13 and link 3 under the hood, and F1 and F20 in the passenger compartment before tearing into the wiring.
I certainly like Spike's idea of attaching ground to frame and + 12 to a skinned wire (just poke a nail in the insulation) at the starter.
And yes, if you had access to the wiring in the door, you could unlug it and apply power there. We don't know if you have a bad superlock motor, stuck in the locked position. Are all doors superlocked, or just one or two?
IMHO if an owner wanted to defeat the superlock option, it could be accomplished by removing the correct relay (but they might be soldered to a printed circuit board in the fuse panel) or snipping the pink/slate wire at the fuse panel that supplies superlock motors with their voltage.
From looking at the schematic (RAVE) :
+ battery goes thru engine compartment fuse box, link 3 (50 amp) to passenger compartment fuse box fuse 1 (25 amp) that feeds relays that switch power to both locking and superlocking motors.
The inertia switch routes through the underhood fuse box, it gets + voltage from fuse 13 in the underhood box. So unplugging fuse 13 (10 amp) is like tripping the inertia switch (beating truck with large hammer is not a good idea, Disco's have long memory and take pleasure in leaving you stranded in the worst place at the worst time).
The inertia switch supplies + 12 to a device in the passenger fuse box marked as the IDM. It controls the coils of four relays, and those relays switch voltage to superlock and regular lock motors. It gets a + volts from inertia switch normal and a feed from the BCU.
I would hope that if key is turned on in iginition, alarm not tripped or armed, and you remove underhood fuse 13, you have simulated a crash and that the IDM will pulse all lock motors to unlock.
From the passenger fuse box, going to all doors, the Pink/purple is common to both regular and superlock motors.
The Pink/ Slate (gray) goes to all superlock motors.
The Pink/Red go to all regular lock motors (there are two of these wires, same color).
The Pink/Purple goes to the common point between superlock and regular motors.
Here is where my theory begins. When you lock a door, you hear a clunk. When you unlock, you hear a clunk. But we know that the direction of the force applied to the mechanical lock is reversed - the exposed lock button goes up or down. So I believe that the wiring and switches are set up to send positive voltage to operate the lock motor momentarily, and send negative voltage to momentarily to make it operate in the reverse direction. I don't think the lock motors have constant power on them when the doors are closed and the engine is off, because that would drain the battery.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING FIRST!
If you have access to the passenger compartment fuse box:
Remove engine compartment fuse 13.
Remove passenger compartment fuses 1 and 20
At this point there should be no power on the locking system.
Remove the four lock controlling relays, if they unplug. With relays un-powered, they are holding the pink/gray, pink/reds, and pink/purple at ground. If relays don't unplug, will have to cut the pink/slate and pink/purple. Apply 12 volts + and - to the two wires. Should lock, or unlock, depending on polarity. If does not unlock, swap wires and try again.
Does all this sound really complicated? You bet, they didn't want to make it easy. What we are doing is getting between the superlock and regular lock door motors and what controls them, and putting in our own battery.
Of course, this is just a theory, and I don't have a D2 to experiment on. And it assumes you are inside, just can't get things to work.
Would double check with a meter fuses 13 and link 3 under the hood, and F1 and F20 in the passenger compartment before tearing into the wiring.
I certainly like Spike's idea of attaching ground to frame and + 12 to a skinned wire (just poke a nail in the insulation) at the starter.
And yes, if you had access to the wiring in the door, you could unlug it and apply power there. We don't know if you have a bad superlock motor, stuck in the locked position. Are all doors superlocked, or just one or two?
IMHO if an owner wanted to defeat the superlock option, it could be accomplished by removing the correct relay (but they might be soldered to a printed circuit board in the fuse panel) or snipping the pink/slate wire at the fuse panel that supplies superlock motors with their voltage.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 09-28-2011 at 03:06 PM.
#19
12-22-2021, 06:36 AM
First, since this could be an electrical problem, be sure battery is fully charged (check with meter), and that battery cables and large cables in fuse box are clean, tight, no corrosion. A little voltage loss can cause all sorts of gremlins.
From looking at the schematic (RAVE) :
+ battery goes thru engine compartment fuse box, link 3 (50 amp) to passenger compartment fuse box fuse 1 (25 amp) that feeds relays that switch power to both locking and superlocking motors.
The inertia switch routes through the underhood fuse box, it gets + voltage from fuse 13 in the underhood box. So unplugging fuse 13 (10 amp) is like tripping the inertia switch (beating truck with large hammer is not a good idea, Disco's have long memory and take pleasure in leaving you stranded in the worst place at the worst time).
The inertia switch supplies + 12 to a device in the passenger fuse box marked as the IDM. It controls the coils of four relays, and those relays switch voltage to superlock and regular lock motors. It gets a + volts from inertia switch normal and a feed from the BCU.
I would hope that if key is turned on in iginition, alarm not tripped or armed, and you remove underhood fuse 13, you have simulated a crash and that the IDM will pulse all lock motors to unlock.
From the passenger fuse box, going to all doors, the Pink/purple is common to both regular and superlock motors.
The Pink/ Slate (gray) goes to all superlock motors.
The Pink/Red go to all regular lock motors (there are two of these wires, same color).
The Pink/Purple goes to the common point between superlock and regular motors.
Here is where my theory begins. When you lock a door, you hear a clunk. When you unlock, you hear a clunk. But we know that the direction of the force applied to the mechanical lock is reversed - the exposed lock button goes up or down. So I believe that the wiring and switches are set up to send positive voltage to operate the lock motor momentarily, and send negative voltage to momentarily to make it operate in the reverse direction. I don't think the lock motors have constant power on them when the doors are closed and the engine is off, because that would drain the battery.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING FIRST!
If you have access to the passenger compartment fuse box:
Remove engine compartment fuse 13.
Remove passenger compartment fuses 1 and 20
At this point there should be no power on the locking system.
Remove the four lock controlling relays, if they unplug. With relays un-powered, they are holding the pink/gray, pink/reds, and pink/purple at ground. If relays don't unplug, will have to cut the pink/slate and pink/purple. Apply 12 volts + and - to the two wires. Should lock, or unlock, depending on polarity. If does not unlock, swap wires and try again.
Does all this sound really complicated? You bet, they didn't want to make it easy. What we are doing is getting between the superlock and regular lock door motors and what controls them, and putting in our own battery.
Of course, this is just a theory, and I don't have a D2 to experiment on. And it assumes you are inside, just can't get things to work.
Would double check with a meter fuses 13 and link 3 under the hood, and F1 and F20 in the passenger compartment before tearing into the wiring.
I certainly like Spike's idea of attaching ground to frame and + 12 to a skinned wire (just poke a nail in the insulation) at the starter.
And yes, if you had access to the wiring in the door, you could unlug it and apply power there. We don't know if you have a bad superlock motor, stuck in the locked position. Are all doors superlocked, or just one or two?
IMHO if an owner wanted to defeat the superlock option, it could be accomplished by removing the correct relay (but they might be soldered to a printed circuit board in the fuse panel) or snipping the pink/slate wire at the fuse panel that supplies superlock motors with their voltage.
From looking at the schematic (RAVE) :
+ battery goes thru engine compartment fuse box, link 3 (50 amp) to passenger compartment fuse box fuse 1 (25 amp) that feeds relays that switch power to both locking and superlocking motors.
The inertia switch routes through the underhood fuse box, it gets + voltage from fuse 13 in the underhood box. So unplugging fuse 13 (10 amp) is like tripping the inertia switch (beating truck with large hammer is not a good idea, Disco's have long memory and take pleasure in leaving you stranded in the worst place at the worst time).
The inertia switch supplies + 12 to a device in the passenger fuse box marked as the IDM. It controls the coils of four relays, and those relays switch voltage to superlock and regular lock motors. It gets a + volts from inertia switch normal and a feed from the BCU.
I would hope that if key is turned on in iginition, alarm not tripped or armed, and you remove underhood fuse 13, you have simulated a crash and that the IDM will pulse all lock motors to unlock.
From the passenger fuse box, going to all doors, the Pink/purple is common to both regular and superlock motors.
The Pink/ Slate (gray) goes to all superlock motors.
The Pink/Red go to all regular lock motors (there are two of these wires, same color).
The Pink/Purple goes to the common point between superlock and regular motors.
Here is where my theory begins. When you lock a door, you hear a clunk. When you unlock, you hear a clunk. But we know that the direction of the force applied to the mechanical lock is reversed - the exposed lock button goes up or down. So I believe that the wiring and switches are set up to send positive voltage to operate the lock motor momentarily, and send negative voltage to momentarily to make it operate in the reverse direction. I don't think the lock motors have constant power on them when the doors are closed and the engine is off, because that would drain the battery.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING FIRST!
If you have access to the passenger compartment fuse box:
Remove engine compartment fuse 13.
Remove passenger compartment fuses 1 and 20
At this point there should be no power on the locking system.
Remove the four lock controlling relays, if they unplug. With relays un-powered, they are holding the pink/gray, pink/reds, and pink/purple at ground. If relays don't unplug, will have to cut the pink/slate and pink/purple. Apply 12 volts + and - to the two wires. Should lock, or unlock, depending on polarity. If does not unlock, swap wires and try again.
Does all this sound really complicated? You bet, they didn't want to make it easy. What we are doing is getting between the superlock and regular lock door motors and what controls them, and putting in our own battery.
Of course, this is just a theory, and I don't have a D2 to experiment on. And it assumes you are inside, just can't get things to work.
Would double check with a meter fuses 13 and link 3 under the hood, and F1 and F20 in the passenger compartment before tearing into the wiring.
I certainly like Spike's idea of attaching ground to frame and + 12 to a skinned wire (just poke a nail in the insulation) at the starter.
And yes, if you had access to the wiring in the door, you could unlug it and apply power there. We don't know if you have a bad superlock motor, stuck in the locked position. Are all doors superlocked, or just one or two?
IMHO if an owner wanted to defeat the superlock option, it could be accomplished by removing the correct relay (but they might be soldered to a printed circuit board in the fuse panel) or snipping the pink/slate wire at the fuse panel that supplies superlock motors with their voltage.
The pin comes out easily on the door harness connector. Within the connector there is a pink locking slide that locks the pins in. Once that is slid to the left, you can access the protruding locking bit on the metal pin, and push it in (I used a small pick) while gently pulling the wire out of the back of the connector.
Assuming I got the right wire, this should disable super lock on this door's actuator.
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JUKE179r (01-04-2022)
#20
12-30-2021, 09:42 PM
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