Suspension day - 3rd question
#1
Suspension day - 3rd question
I have read most of the threads on the OME, tire combos, etc. etc.
I have decided to go with the OME 2" lift, 265/75/16 tire size.
I understand there are no issues with drive shaft, brake lines, ABS, etc.
I understand there are no options for calibration of the speedometer.
My question is the taller tire impact on the gearing / drivability. I have lifted my Jeep CJ7 (33" swampers) and 4 runner (33" Mud T/A's) and found that the truck was a pig once I went to the taller tire.
How is the impact on the DII with the taller tire? I do mostly highway driving and minimal off-road. Doing the lift strictly for aesthetic purposes and don't want to get into swapping gears.
Anyone find an impact on low-end acceleration (what little these sleds have to begin with) and what I can expect for MPG impact?
I have decided to go with the OME 2" lift, 265/75/16 tire size.
I understand there are no issues with drive shaft, brake lines, ABS, etc.
I understand there are no options for calibration of the speedometer.
My question is the taller tire impact on the gearing / drivability. I have lifted my Jeep CJ7 (33" swampers) and 4 runner (33" Mud T/A's) and found that the truck was a pig once I went to the taller tire.
How is the impact on the DII with the taller tire? I do mostly highway driving and minimal off-road. Doing the lift strictly for aesthetic purposes and don't want to get into swapping gears.
Anyone find an impact on low-end acceleration (what little these sleds have to begin with) and what I can expect for MPG impact?
#3
I didn't notice a huge impact on either. It was slow before, it's a little slower. It got bad gas mileage before, now it gets worse (maybe 1-2mpg's worse).
#5
That is my set as well...around the city I get 10-11 mpg on the highway I get around 14 mpg. I have not noticed any change in the driveability, the take offs from a red light etc... if anything I have more room on the road as mine is all black (rims tires arb bumper) and for some reason folks seem to give me a wider than normal clearance while driving thru the city.
I am going to change out the brake lines form factory to braided stainless steel lines that are also a wee bit longer. I have found that the rear lines are close to their limit in length and do not want to rip a line in the woods if I need to do a rather larger than normal articulation. other than that I really could not be happier.. I also played with the rear springs. I started with 763 but found that I really did not ever out the needed load in to compress the reguired amount for best ride. so after discussing with Jason at Lucky I switched out to the 761 with a D1 perch tower to give the ride height aesthetic... the ride is sooooo much better.
I am going to change out the brake lines form factory to braided stainless steel lines that are also a wee bit longer. I have found that the rear lines are close to their limit in length and do not want to rip a line in the woods if I need to do a rather larger than normal articulation. other than that I really could not be happier.. I also played with the rear springs. I started with 763 but found that I really did not ever out the needed load in to compress the reguired amount for best ride. so after discussing with Jason at Lucky I switched out to the 761 with a D1 perch tower to give the ride height aesthetic... the ride is sooooo much better.
#6
#7
Thanks Jeffh - that is good to know. I was contemplating going with the HD springs. But I do not pull a trailer all but once or twice a year. As you can tell by my millage I drive alot and it is mostly hwy, stop and go here in Washington DC.
I may go with a front steel bumper one day. Should I go with the 761?
Disco Mike - I did do the ss break lines as well with DBA drilled and slotted and EBC yellow stuff pads. This saved my front bumper a few times here in the stop and go traffic on the Capital Beltway. LoL
I may go with a front steel bumper one day. Should I go with the 761?
Disco Mike - I did do the ss break lines as well with DBA drilled and slotted and EBC yellow stuff pads. This saved my front bumper a few times here in the stop and go traffic on the Capital Beltway. LoL
#8
Hey guys. Thanks for all the advice. I took the front drivers side wheel off last night and couldn't see any obvious damage to the sensor cable. I couldn't see the sensor itself because it is pretty buried in there. Do I have to take off the hub to inspect the actual sensor or is there an easier way?
I'm going back under today to see if I can see anything else. Trace the sensor lines from hub to destination on all four wheels. Then I'll jack it up and look for excessive play in the hubs.
Right now I suspect one of two rookie things. First I believe it is probably a sensor because my dad (who goes to church with the mechanic that told me to f**k off???) said "well maybe one of the sensor connections broke." Correct me if I'm wrong but the Rave manual says over and over to never disconnect the sensor at the hub. So I bet he did and now I might be looking at a new hub that I can't afford.
The other rookie suspision I have is that maybe the hub nut didn't get torqued to 360lbs? Anyone think that might do it? When I pulled the wheel I remembered thinking I used to be able to see more thread than I see now but I could be wrong.
Question, if I pull the fuse or disconnect at the modulator, the 3 amigos will come on. When I re-hook things up, can I get them back off? I have a scanner that will clear codes and turn off the check engine light but I've read here many times that the 3 amigos have to be turned off by the dealer?
Thanks so much to all of you. I'm sorry for being such a rookie (and loser for letting this guy do the ball joints) but I'm getting better. Without you guys that would not be the case.
I'm going back under today to see if I can see anything else. Trace the sensor lines from hub to destination on all four wheels. Then I'll jack it up and look for excessive play in the hubs.
Right now I suspect one of two rookie things. First I believe it is probably a sensor because my dad (who goes to church with the mechanic that told me to f**k off???) said "well maybe one of the sensor connections broke." Correct me if I'm wrong but the Rave manual says over and over to never disconnect the sensor at the hub. So I bet he did and now I might be looking at a new hub that I can't afford.
The other rookie suspision I have is that maybe the hub nut didn't get torqued to 360lbs? Anyone think that might do it? When I pulled the wheel I remembered thinking I used to be able to see more thread than I see now but I could be wrong.
Question, if I pull the fuse or disconnect at the modulator, the 3 amigos will come on. When I re-hook things up, can I get them back off? I have a scanner that will clear codes and turn off the check engine light but I've read here many times that the 3 amigos have to be turned off by the dealer?
Thanks so much to all of you. I'm sorry for being such a rookie (and loser for letting this guy do the ball joints) but I'm getting better. Without you guys that would not be the case.
#9
[quote=jeffh;252229 I also played with the rear springs. I started with 763 but found that I really did not ever out the needed load in to compress the reguired amount for best ride. so after discussing with Jason at Lucky I switched out to the 761 with a D1 perch tower to give the ride height aesthetic... the ride is sooooo much better.[/quote]
New to the boards here....Sorry for not knowing, but can someone point in the right direction. Who is "Jason at Lucky"?
Is there some more info about the benifit of using a D1 perch tower?
New to the boards here....Sorry for not knowing, but can someone point in the right direction. Who is "Jason at Lucky"?
Is there some more info about the benifit of using a D1 perch tower?
#10