Ok no big deal Ill buy a paper filter, i just left the kn because it was in it when I bought it, but the disco wasn't taken off road before.

 

Here you go. Cheaper. Good stuff still. For 175 you get both front and back. life is good.
http://store.hicountryoffroad.com/Di...Rear_p_18.html

 

Thanks I may need those. It still seems like a lot for disconnects, but maybe I'm being cheap.

 

Have you crawled under there? Those are not small bolts, and if they are fully extended they are pulling some pretty good load! I still feel the pain of $175 too.

 

You're right the factory endlinks are heavy duty, nicely designed with the ball joints on each end, maybe I can modify them with cotter pins on the end to just disconnect those?

 

Have you seen these?
http://www.expeditionexchange.com/slickrockfab/
They look really nice.

 

Those ones from Slick Rock look just like JKS disconnects. I suggest removing the rear and keeping the front with some discos. Just always remember to disconnect when you are level, otherwise you will never get them back on or off.

 

I added 2" longer brake lines and removed my rear sway bar links. I'm not really happy with it. On the road and on logging roads at any speed it is very wavy kinda like an old cadillac. Long slow bounce. When i'm on rocks or going really slow at full articluation is is better but not by much.
I think i will look into finding or making my own sway bar links but longer. My truck has a 3"lift so my sway bar links should be 3" longer.
i'll hit you back when I've done it and tested it out.

As far as the front, Mine are still on and i'll be trying it with them off soon.

FYI, I am rubnbing HD Brit part springs and I have Ranch 9000 adjustable shocks.

 

I would just reinstall the rear sway bar, you don't really gain much articulation when taking it out because you still have the watts linkage binding on you. I removed my rear sway and have front sway disconnects, but the panhard rear conversion actually allows flex.

 

Interesting topic. I've debated disconnecting the rears while heading out to the trails but assumed the watts would still bind. Truth? Will I gain any "more" articulation with the rear sways disconnected running TF HD's and +2" shocks?