Swivel Ball Rebuild?
#21
#22
luck,greg
#23
Ok, so my swivel ball grease came in today. How exactly do I get it in the housing properly?
Oh and this is unrelated but I'd rather not start another thread, I also got a new fuel filter. I'm pretty sure the one that's on there now has been there for a few years at least and it's pretty much rusted solid. I've got it soaking in penetrating stuffs now, but is there anything else I could do to loosen it up?
Thanks guys
Oh and this is unrelated but I'd rather not start another thread, I also got a new fuel filter. I'm pretty sure the one that's on there now has been there for a few years at least and it's pretty much rusted solid. I've got it soaking in penetrating stuffs now, but is there anything else I could do to loosen it up?
Thanks guys
#24
Ok, so my swivel ball grease came in today. How exactly do I get it in the housing properly?
Oh and this is unrelated but I'd rather not start another thread, I also got a new fuel filter. I'm pretty sure the one that's on there now has been there for a few years at least and it's pretty much rusted solid. I've got it soaking in penetrating stuffs now, but is there anything else I could do to loosen it up?
Thanks guys
Oh and this is unrelated but I'd rather not start another thread, I also got a new fuel filter. I'm pretty sure the one that's on there now has been there for a few years at least and it's pretty much rusted solid. I've got it soaking in penetrating stuffs now, but is there anything else I could do to loosen it up?
Thanks guys
I believe your '96 has a hex head drain plug @ or near bottom.
I used a 1/2" "T"bar w/6" extension to pull my fill plug, then just squirted the hole tube of grease in.
Whatever lube you use the fill plug is your level. (or close to it.)
On the unrelated issue, the filter may/may not be a stinker. I would use flare nut wrenches if you've got them, if not, use a good wrench & don't slip.
You might try putting press on wrench & slap the wrench with a hammer to break the thread bond. Who knows, it might come apart easy.
luck,greg
#25
#26
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
[quote=antichrist;113487]I wouldn't spend the money on the kit unless you're also going to do the swivel pins. Depending on the mileage on yours, you'll be getting the death wobble soon (if you haven't already). If you're going to completely remove the swivel ball to renew the seal you might as do the whole nine yards.
If the truck has always lived in the north east, your swivel ***** are indeed likely pitted. Two choices there, replace with new (or good used), or use epoxy to repair them, which a lot of people have done with good success.
If you just renew the grease in them, use the proper grease, not chassis lube.[/quote]
Tom, are you referring to the one shot or can you pump Lucas Extra Heavy Duty #2 in it?
If the truck has always lived in the north east, your swivel ***** are indeed likely pitted. Two choices there, replace with new (or good used), or use epoxy to repair them, which a lot of people have done with good success.
If you just renew the grease in them, use the proper grease, not chassis lube.[/quote]
Tom, are you referring to the one shot or can you pump Lucas Extra Heavy Duty #2 in it?
#28
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
I had to replace fuel lines all the way from the tank to filter to engine bay due to pinhole corrosion leakage. I relocated the filter to a better location ouit of the wheel well along the side of the frame and used a short piece of fuel rated tubing to connect it along with fuel injector pressure rated clamps. Works great and can easily access on creeper along the side of vehicle.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
reflextuning
General Range Rover Discussion - Archived
2
07-18-2008 12:03 PM