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Swivel Ball Rebuild?

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  #21  
Old 05-08-2009, 08:52 PM
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"I also ... repaired gouges in my *****"
As a medical professional I would have to say this isn't wise and that you should seek the assistance of a Urologist if this problem persists.
 
  #22  
Old 05-08-2009, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by salve7
"I also ... repaired gouges in my *****"
As a medical professional I would have to say this isn't wise and that you should seek the assistance of a Urologist if this problem persists.
I don't think my insurance would cover it, I used JB weld, I think it's harder than brass!!

luck,greg
 
  #23  
Old 05-09-2009, 03:48 PM
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Ok, so my swivel ball grease came in today. How exactly do I get it in the housing properly?

Oh and this is unrelated but I'd rather not start another thread, I also got a new fuel filter. I'm pretty sure the one that's on there now has been there for a few years at least and it's pretty much rusted solid. I've got it soaking in penetrating stuffs now, but is there anything else I could do to loosen it up?

Thanks guys
 
  #24  
Old 05-09-2009, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by hazletbassist89
Ok, so my swivel ball grease came in today. How exactly do I get it in the housing properly?

Oh and this is unrelated but I'd rather not start another thread, I also got a new fuel filter. I'm pretty sure the one that's on there now has been there for a few years at least and it's pretty much rusted solid. I've got it soaking in penetrating stuffs now, but is there anything else I could do to loosen it up?

Thanks guys
On my '97, I had cut & pulled the seal, so the little amount of lube dripped out on rag.

I believe your '96 has a hex head drain plug @ or near bottom.

I used a 1/2" "T"bar w/6" extension to pull my fill plug, then just squirted the hole tube of grease in.

Whatever lube you use the fill plug is your level. (or close to it.)


On the unrelated issue, the filter may/may not be a stinker. I would use flare nut wrenches if you've got them, if not, use a good wrench & don't slip.

You might try putting press on wrench & slap the wrench with a hammer to break the thread bond. Who knows, it might come apart easy.



luck,greg
 
  #25  
Old 05-09-2009, 06:24 PM
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Thanks for the advice, Greg. Unfortunately it's starting to get a little dark here but first thing in the morning I'm gonna get both done right after I change the oil.
 
  #26  
Old 03-24-2011, 04:37 PM
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[quote=antichrist;113487]I wouldn't spend the money on the kit unless you're also going to do the swivel pins. Depending on the mileage on yours, you'll be getting the death wobble soon (if you haven't already). If you're going to completely remove the swivel ball to renew the seal you might as do the whole nine yards.

If the truck has always lived in the north east, your swivel ***** are indeed likely pitted. Two choices there, replace with new (or good used), or use epoxy to repair them, which a lot of people have done with good success.

If you just renew the grease in them, use the proper grease, not chassis lube.[/quote]


Tom, are you referring to the one shot or can you pump Lucas Extra Heavy Duty #2 in it?
 
  #27  
Old 03-24-2011, 05:24 PM
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  #28  
Old 03-25-2011, 02:12 PM
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I had to replace fuel lines all the way from the tank to filter to engine bay due to pinhole corrosion leakage. I relocated the filter to a better location ouit of the wheel well along the side of the frame and used a short piece of fuel rated tubing to connect it along with fuel injector pressure rated clamps. Works great and can easily access on creeper along the side of vehicle.
 
  #29  
Old 03-25-2011, 02:38 PM
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Ordered grease packs from Trevor at Rovah Farms.
 
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