hey guys..

can you tell me whats causing this, looks the stickers are crooked!!! i dont think the car was made like this... whats causing the saggy window, also when i roll the window up... it make some popping noises... motor is good... is this the regulator?

 

Looks like it got hot. Did the interior of your truck get hot in the past? Like rally really hot? you know, like on fire hot?

The regulator is going bad, to be more specific the roller on the bottom of it.
You can just replace the roller, you will have to remove the regulator and then replace the roller.

There is a write up somewhere floating around here.

 

that popping noise you hear will very soon develop into the point where your window will not go up any more, either address the issue in the very near future, or refrain from using that window as much as possible

 

I have this same issue and have been searching for that thread again about replacing the plastic roller on the bottom. As I remember, you can either make one out of a sliding door hardware, order a really expensive brass one, or just order the whole assembly.

As for how to do it, look for a post by DiscoMike and download the service manual he is always talking about. There is a section with step by step instructions on how to remove the assembly.

If any one has a link to the thread about those little plastic rollers, please post a link on here, I haven't found it yet using the search.

 

I used my 4" grinder with a cutoff wheel (thinner) and removed the rivets holding ea broken plastic roller to the arm.

I then put a S.S. 1/4-20 bolt,(2)washers(that just slide into track), and a smooth blind nut to hold it all.

The windows go up and down quietly, straight, and I hope forever.

luck,greg

 

Thanks for the info about using the washers.

I did find out how to find it using the search function:

Search: window regulator rollers

 

Did you happen to take a picture of your completed replacement roller? I would like for you to post a picture if you have it so others might see your work.

 

This site & I have poor track record for pics, (don't bother)

(I used some stainless hardware 'cuz I had it, but not mandatory)

If you don't know what a "t" nut is go to the hardware, I used the style with no locking barbs on the head.

Picture the arm with only a 1/4" hole

The bolt with washer @ head, the arm, another washer (the arm's flimsey), two stainless washers (5/6"? ) on "t" nut (the "t" nut shank is about 5/16 O.D. so won't pull thru 1/4" washer holes.)

The (2) washers may need to be reduced in O.D. by bench grinder to fit in track, but they fit nicely over shank of "t" nut, creating a new roller.

the 1/2" head of the nut fits in the track behind washers.

Tighten the 1/4" with a 7/16" wrench while holding the shank of the nut with a needle-nose.

PS.- I did have to shorten the bolts I had, (3/4" long may work well)

grease the crap out of it.

luck,greg