This has really got me baffled. I will drive around at times and not have any issues at all, at other times, I drive 5 or 10 minutes and the first time I come to an idle, the temp creeps up. What is going on?

-new radiator
-new water pump
-new thermostat
-new coolant
-water wetter
-good hoses
-backflushed engine, heater core and cleaned throttle body heater plate
-if I come to idle and the temp starts to creep up, if I increase the rpms at idle from 700 to 2000, the temp drops to normal
-no dash lights and truck runs great (I just can't come to a stop.......)

HELP! Somebody please help......

Phil

2000 DII 128k miles

 

Is your belt good and tight?
If it is slipping the water pump will turn to slow.

 

try the inline thermostat option. I did and I have had great results at driving and at idle.

http://picasaweb.google.com/jycsalas...atModification

 

I have a 2000 Disco 2 and the same issue, dont feel all alone I have looked at the viscous fan, thermostat, back flushed front flushed the heater core, I don't know what else to do.

 

Say screw it and take the hood off. It would look tacky but oh well. Or install one of these http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...1t:429,r:3,s:0
But much bigger and find a fan to also force suck air in.

 

The problem you describe seems like an air flow issue, because you have fixed so many other things that might make the cooling system on the brink. But you may have introduced new variables.

AC fan running backward? AC condenser fins clogged with gunk? New fan clutch - re-check - should be stiff to turn at any temp, more or less, but never free-wheel. Fan blades on backwards (cupped side toward engine block)? High head pressure on AC dumping extra heat? Head gasket leak - combustion gas in coolant chemical test from auto parts store. Block problems (not block party)?

Thermostat mounted correctly, not slipped down and exposing a crack under the gasket, which lets it act like no stat at all - when hot and slow it won't keep water in the radiator long enough to cool off. When mine did that because of my lack of skill and failure to burn an old fan belt to the Rover gods, my scanner showed coolant temp all over the map 167 - 205, never very steady at any one point.

Radiator clogged in spots already? A cold spot or blockage in the middle will keep the needed hot air from hitting the front of the fan clutch, which needs to get to 170 F to start coming back on line.

Or time for a Saudi grill.

 

Send me your number and I'll call you today.

 

Well Mike
I changed out the fan clutch, and it seems to help a little down 3-5 degrees, not quiet in the operating range we spoke about.
So I ordered a Radiator from British Parts of Utah, along with a new temp sender and the atk? water pump, hope this will do it!

Any suggestions to prepare for the change out, should I flush the system to clean out the block a little? I forgot to state I also have new hoses for it.

Next question is do I put all these parts on at once or should I try and learn what the problem was? Notice past tense, I'm staying positive

Oh by the way the O2 sensors are in what a pain to change! and no codes.

Thanks Again for all your help !!!!!

 

Can the O2 sensors play any role in this? I am asking becasue today I pulled P0135, P0154, and P0155 codes out of the blue.

I tuned off the SES light while driving using my ultragauge and I noticed that the Disco ran a good 5+ degrees cooler than it ever has in the 2 months I have had it - plus today it is over 100 degrees outside! Normally driving through town I run 203-208 and all the sudden I was running 197-199. I could not make sense of it???

 

Phil,
I used the Devil and had a the same problem. I flushed the cooling system 4 times to finally clear the gunk. The first 2 times I would get good amount of blue gel. By the 4th time it was clear. I also flushed the heater core. The key for me was to back flush the radiator with a garden hose from the bottom up. The trick is to wrap a small rag around the garden hose to seal around the radiator return. I also noticed a large amount of the gel gunk inside radiator on the top side. My theory is that gel is cloging the small radiator bleed pipe that goes to the expansion tank. I flushed the top radiator outlet with a nozzle of the garden hose then backwashed it from the bottom outlet. This is when I got the most gel gunk out. Also check the pressure cap on the expansion tank. I found a lot of gel had filled the grove between the two o-rings preventing the radiator from circulating through the bleed line. Make sure water is circulating back to the expansion tank through the bleed line. With the engine runnng you should see a steady stream flowing into the expansion tank. Once you get all the devil out you should be fine.

Let this be a warning to all Land Rover owners. Stay away from the devil..