After a week or more of overheating frustration, finally being stranded on the side of the road, and watching my Rover being flat bedded to the Land Rover service station, the results are in.

LOW COOLANT can you stinkin believe it. All that work flushing, and bleeding and re bleeding.....

Bad news: Where is it leaking from,

Two head gaskets
The water pump
and the radiator hose.

Possibly needs a new engine if the sleeves ?? have shifted at all. Even a mm.
The inspection was $180.00, but he did say without completely taking it apart he would of had a tough time seeing a couple of the leaks.

So Patrick is going to flat bed my baby back to my garage, while I hide the chainsaw and all the baseball bats. so while making the above repairs, and while he is deep inside the beast, any suggestions on extra stuff. I think he is planning on replacing all headgaskets.

Mind you, he has already done the driveshaft rebuild. Want to thank all you guys again for trying to help us out with the temp problem. This sight is invaluable for rookie Land Rover owners!

 

Well, low coolant does explain the no heat (no water = no heat).

As you can imagine, there might be some truth in the inspection, or they might be jacking it up.

Fix hose. That is cheap. Replace water pump. Took me about an hour. Part is like $50 from Rock Auto. Then carefully test, with a scanner or ultra gauge, so you can see temp moving up digitally before gauge moves.

Then you can decide on head gaskets. British Pacific is one vendor. You'll want new bolts, the old ones are designed to stretch once on install. The overhaul manual of the RAVE tells you everything. About $200 in parts, and another $200 to have heads machined to level out any warp. Find posts by Eric Tyrell about his HG saga, he has lots of photos so Prince Charming will see exactly what he will be looking at. This is a longer more complex task than the drive shaft. Reduce the Red Bull rations.

 

I will only offer Rum and cokes in the evening plus ear plugs for me, oh the profanity

 

Low coolant? What was the level in the reservoir, and did you ever see any drop in level? I'm curious. The time before last when I flushed my coolant, I noticed several months later, that I had kinked the small hose that feeds from the reservoir (#17 in the RAVE flow diagram). At the time I thanked God that I didn't have a leak during that kinked hose time, because, if I had, the reservoir level never would have dropped since that hose is the only way "out" of the reservoir. I corrected the kinked hose, then several months later I developed a leak from the tee on the upper hose (old style with the bleeder in the hose, not the tee) so I decided to replace that hose, and every coolant hose on the system because they all probably had about 106k miles on them.

About three months after the hoses replacement, I noticed a single drop of coolant on the garage floor, next to the small oil puddle that I clean twice a year. After some searching, I found a leak at the right rear of the engine, evidenced by coolant stains just above the starter. I have kept a careful eye on the reservoir level since then, and it has dropped perhaps 1/4" in a few thousand miles.

I figure it is either the valley pan, or a head gasket. The problem is, I don't want to order a plenum gasket, so I can remove the plenum to determine the source of the leak, replace the plenum to drive the vehicle while waiting on valley pan, or head gaskets, while the wife is away with the other car for few months, so I am going to add BG coolant sealant to hopefully slow the slow leak,until she returns and I can have another vehicle to drive in the few days the Rover is down.

*at this time, someone needs to give me some motivation to pull the heads from my junk engine taking up space in the garage, and get them machined to save down time!!*

I apologise for the perhaps incoherent rambling, as I didn't get off work until 1AM this morning, and needed to down a few beers to counteract the coffee that kept me going.

Speaking of spirits: just make sure Prince Charming is in the same state reassembling the engine as he was while disassembling. When I and my neighbor (a "professional" mechanic) removed my bad engine, we did so under the influence. The next weekend we installed the replacement under the same influence. No spare parts, and it started and runs to this day. Start a project sober, finish it sober, and vice-versa.

Keep us informed of the progress!

 

review these posts with Prince Charming, Duke of Foulmouth:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-repair-43960/

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...rebuild-44306/

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...o-uh-oh-43918/

Pictures included in these show what he will be encountering

 

WARNING Do not use any type of stop leak in your cooling system. You are just asking for problems. The DIIs use a unique style of thermostat. The thermostat, radiator and heater core are prone to getting clogged, plugged and generally messed up with any type radiator stop leak. I posted some photos a while back of the clogged holes in the radiator bypass valve after using the Univeral Products Blue Devil product. I have seen similar clogging with use of the BG product, in fact, I think that the clogs were even more evident. It also cost me a radiator. When we took the side piece off of the radiator, it looked like lawn clippings had been added to the cooling system, not pretty. You are much better off to just keep adding coolant until you are able to do a proper fix. Trust me, do not add that stuff it will only cause you headaches. Plus, when you do the proper head gasket fix, it is really hard to get all of the junk out of the system. Before I used the Blue Devil, I spent hours and hours researching and spent an hour talking to the guys at Universal Products to find out if it would work on a DII and just how to introduce it into the system. I followed the instructions to the tee and still had nothing but problems. It may work in a Chevy 350 engine, but not in a Discovery. Good luck, Phil

 

ljdiscovery - you are correct, and I believe that the OP has already ruled that out. She has already had it hauled to dealer, tested, and now has it back home to start DIY head gaskets, if that is what is needed. We have raised the issue of the heat sampling holes in the stat as well, all that on another very long post. See https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...road%3B-44985/

 

Buzz, I believe lgdiscovery was referring to Lord Morpheus last post.

Morpheus, I will bring up the kinked hose idea to PC, who knows maybe that was missed during inspection. Might explain why coolant always appeared full.

Should he replace all hoses and other stuff?

 

Can't hurt. Would not do new hoses until end of project. Once done, new improved pressures might make old hose leak. But if you were able to determine that coolant level problems and perhaps a water pump were at issue, and head gaskets are not bad at this time, would save a lot of work. With a twisted line from the coolant jug, I don't think you could have got the 6 quarts in that you did. Or it would have been really slow.

Also, when you are in the big home improvement store, they have hearing protectors that look like head phones. Some models cut it down by 30 dB, and you won't have to listen to him...

 

. Wish he knew how to type as well as swear