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There's your problem...

Old Jan 22, 2009 | 02:06 AM
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Default There's your problem...


Anyone think this could be part of my oil and coolant leak problem?



[IMG]local://upfiles/11682/E05B47FB677D48E48C1E6E8BADDCC0EC.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/11682/343E517AF9C14E75910EAF5BD8D390D1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/11682/1C3C4B80AD58419D911B7C9CE637D98A.jpg[/IMG]
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 07:57 AM
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Default RE: There's your problem...

Interesting pictures. Gaskets and sealing problems from what I can see, what is the mileage on the engine, has it been overheated.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 08:43 AM
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Default RE: There's your problem...


It's got 96k miles on it. I'm not the original owner, no idea if it was overheated. I've had it for about 3 months (5k miles). Needle was always in the middle, scanguage always showed 198-200F.

Hope to get the heads off tonight and not see a dropped liner.
Yea, the gaskets are trashed. Oil and coolant everywhere.
Is it normal for the valley pan gasket to bow upwards in the middle or is that a sign of over pressure?

 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 08:55 AM
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Default RE: There's your problem...

Let us know how it goes.
Make sure to use only Rover brand gasket sets, make sure to also buy a new intake manifold gasket and new Rover head bolts.
I would suggest you flush this engine after you have it up and running again.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 09:47 PM
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Default RE: There's your problem...


Quick update.
I got her all back together on the weekend and she fired up first time. Had to hold the throttle for a minute until she would idle but besides that all was good.
A couple of things I learned during this. Take your time. It's not a race and it takes twice as long when you miss something and have to take it apart again. In my defence it was -15 in the garage :-)
The head bolt at the rear against the firewall is a real PITA. I was using a 16mm socket but could feel it rounding. Tools down and a trip to the local tool place to pick up a 5/8 short impact socket and a breaker bar with a ratchet sorted it out. The same setup helped with the re-install. I used soapstone to mark the head bolts. A vertical line and it's easy to track each 90 degree torque sequence.
It also looked like someone had done the head gaskets not too long ago. There was next to no gasket material stuck to either the block or the heads. I had the heads machined regardless.
The oil separator in the breather was completely blocked which caused pressure in the crank case to push up the valley pan gasket and force oil out the back. The bolts on the intake manifold seemed a bit loose which is where the coolant was leaking. I put aviation seal around the coolant ports when I put the intake manifold back on. It's a bit of extra insurance and help to hold the gasket down while trying to position the manifold.

Let's hope that's the end of the coolant leaks.

Thanks for all the pointers and help.
Mark
 
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