Which Thing First: Front Driveshaft, Three Amigos, or Wildcard?
Hi Everyone,
I’m about to dive in and buy an old Disco II. It’s an ‘01 with a blinking odometer that reads 147K. Seller says the car alarm was beeping one time and sort of just stopped one day. I dunno. I figure a trip to the stealer/rental of a scanner can solve the odometer. It doesn’t matter right now.
Truck drives fine with some mild shimmy from the front over crests. No odd noises from the drivetrain. No white smoke from exhaust. No coolant smells. No oil smells but some drips from normal 20 year old car places. Three amigos serenaded me on my test drive. Can’t even open the hood (but the cable is there!).
I did some reading and now I’m all worried about front driveshafts. This thing will not be my daily but I will want to cruise in it. What I’m asking is what would y’all do first? Front driveshaft rebuild? Three amigos? CDL mod? Get the hood open?
Even though the truck is cheap (no more than $2K), I would still be very sad if the driveshaft blew up on the way home. What say you, forum?
Looking forward to wrenching!
I’m about to dive in and buy an old Disco II. It’s an ‘01 with a blinking odometer that reads 147K. Seller says the car alarm was beeping one time and sort of just stopped one day. I dunno. I figure a trip to the stealer/rental of a scanner can solve the odometer. It doesn’t matter right now.
Truck drives fine with some mild shimmy from the front over crests. No odd noises from the drivetrain. No white smoke from exhaust. No coolant smells. No oil smells but some drips from normal 20 year old car places. Three amigos serenaded me on my test drive. Can’t even open the hood (but the cable is there!).
I did some reading and now I’m all worried about front driveshafts. This thing will not be my daily but I will want to cruise in it. What I’m asking is what would y’all do first? Front driveshaft rebuild? Three amigos? CDL mod? Get the hood open?
Even though the truck is cheap (no more than $2K), I would still be very sad if the driveshaft blew up on the way home. What say you, forum?
Looking forward to wrenching!
Last edited by HerrGruyere; Sep 4, 2023 at 03:41 PM.
Welome to the forum!
I'd say the first thing to do is get the bonnet open. You really need to check the fluid levels, especially coolant and oil.
Next up for me would be to check the front driveshaft. You may be lucky and find that the u-joints or the entire driveshaft has been replaced so it's greasable. If so, get out your grease gun and start pumping until grease is coming out of all four seals of each of the three u-joints. If it's not a greasable shaft I would certainly put getting it rebuilt or replaced soon near the top of the list. Keep the radio off and be alert for any "chirping" noises from under that truck that vary with the speed you are driving.
The Three Amigos are less urgent. The brakes will still stop the car just fine in normal conditions; you just won't have ABS. But remember that cars and trucks didn't generally have ABS until the mid-'80s or so.
As for the blinking odometer, I'd first try calling an independent shop in your area that works on Rovers. Many shops use a scan tool called Autologic that can synch the odometer and BCU. Or, if you're fortunate there may be an owner near you with a Nanocom or a Hawkeye set up for the DII. Those devices can also synch the instrument panel with the BCU. I don't happen to recall any forum members near Fairfax.
For me, enabling the CDL would be last on the list. Get the basics sorted out first.
And finally, what did you mean by this? What are "over crests"?
I'd say the first thing to do is get the bonnet open. You really need to check the fluid levels, especially coolant and oil.
Next up for me would be to check the front driveshaft. You may be lucky and find that the u-joints or the entire driveshaft has been replaced so it's greasable. If so, get out your grease gun and start pumping until grease is coming out of all four seals of each of the three u-joints. If it's not a greasable shaft I would certainly put getting it rebuilt or replaced soon near the top of the list. Keep the radio off and be alert for any "chirping" noises from under that truck that vary with the speed you are driving.
The Three Amigos are less urgent. The brakes will still stop the car just fine in normal conditions; you just won't have ABS. But remember that cars and trucks didn't generally have ABS until the mid-'80s or so.
As for the blinking odometer, I'd first try calling an independent shop in your area that works on Rovers. Many shops use a scan tool called Autologic that can synch the odometer and BCU. Or, if you're fortunate there may be an owner near you with a Nanocom or a Hawkeye set up for the DII. Those devices can also synch the instrument panel with the BCU. I don't happen to recall any forum members near Fairfax.
For me, enabling the CDL would be last on the list. Get the basics sorted out first.
And finally, what did you mean by this? What are "over crests"?
I meant shimmy over the crest of a hill. So you’re driving along at 30-45 mph and crest the top of a hill, you’ll feel some shimmy from the front end. Felt like worn control arm bushings or some kind of front end wear.
Thanks for the reply! I figured I answered my own question with the driveshaft. I’m honestly trying to find reasons not to buy the car.
Thanks for the reply! I figured I answered my own question with the driveshaft. I’m honestly trying to find reasons not to buy the car.
Welome to the forum!
I'd say the first thing to do is get the bonnet open. You really need to check the fluid levels, especially coolant and oil.
Next up for me would be to check the front driveshaft. You may be lucky and find that the u-joints or the entire driveshaft has been replaced so it's greasable. If so, get out your grease gun and start pumping until grease is coming out of all four seals of each of the three u-joints. If it's not a greasable shaft I would certainly put getting it rebuilt or replaced soon near the top of the list. Keep the radio off and be alert for any "chirping" noises from under that truck that vary with the speed you are driving.
The Three Amigos are less urgent. The brakes will still stop the car just fine in normal conditions; you just won't have ABS. But remember that cars and trucks didn't generally have ABS until the mid-'80s or so.
As for the blinking odometer, I'd first try calling an independent shop in your area that works on Rovers. Many shops use a scan tool called Autologic that can synch the odometer and BCU. Or, if you're fortunate there may be an owner near you with a Nanocom or a Hawkeye set up for the DII. Those devices can also synch the instrument panel with the BCU. I don't happen to recall any forum members near Fairfax.
For me, enabling the CDL would be last on the list. Get the basics sorted out first.
And finally, what did you mean by this? What are "over crests"?
I'd say the first thing to do is get the bonnet open. You really need to check the fluid levels, especially coolant and oil.
Next up for me would be to check the front driveshaft. You may be lucky and find that the u-joints or the entire driveshaft has been replaced so it's greasable. If so, get out your grease gun and start pumping until grease is coming out of all four seals of each of the three u-joints. If it's not a greasable shaft I would certainly put getting it rebuilt or replaced soon near the top of the list. Keep the radio off and be alert for any "chirping" noises from under that truck that vary with the speed you are driving.
The Three Amigos are less urgent. The brakes will still stop the car just fine in normal conditions; you just won't have ABS. But remember that cars and trucks didn't generally have ABS until the mid-'80s or so.
As for the blinking odometer, I'd first try calling an independent shop in your area that works on Rovers. Many shops use a scan tool called Autologic that can synch the odometer and BCU. Or, if you're fortunate there may be an owner near you with a Nanocom or a Hawkeye set up for the DII. Those devices can also synch the instrument panel with the BCU. I don't happen to recall any forum members near Fairfax.
For me, enabling the CDL would be last on the list. Get the basics sorted out first.
And finally, what did you mean by this? What are "over crests"?
- Have someone pressing the front of the bonnet down while you pull its opener handle. Then oil everything that should move at the latch.
- Remove the front driveshaft and engage the differential lock until you diagnose it.
- Diagnose the 3 amigos with the proper error reader.
- I do not know how to fix a wildcard
- Remove the front driveshaft and engage the differential lock until you diagnose it.
- Diagnose the 3 amigos with the proper error reader.
- I do not know how to fix a wildcard
Wanted to let you know, my alternator went about 6 years ago. When it happened all my dash lights came on and odometer started blinking.
fixed everything but ever since, my odometer has been blinking. Truck drives fine and still records miles etc.
Also I've lived with 3 amigos for 12 years now. For starters, get your CDL engaged. My general rule, when the Amigo lights go on and off randomly. so maybe pop on during a drive but then are gone on next start up, for example. I don't worry about that and just ignore it.
But, when the lights stay on always regardless of start up etc, then I read the codes and trace issue.
fixed everything but ever since, my odometer has been blinking. Truck drives fine and still records miles etc.
Also I've lived with 3 amigos for 12 years now. For starters, get your CDL engaged. My general rule, when the Amigo lights go on and off randomly. so maybe pop on during a drive but then are gone on next start up, for example. I don't worry about that and just ignore it.
But, when the lights stay on always regardless of start up etc, then I read the codes and trace issue.
Wanted to let you know, my alternator went about 6 years ago. When it happened all my dash lights came on and odometer started blinking.
fixed everything but ever since, my odometer has been blinking. Truck drives fine and still records miles etc.
Also I've lived with 3 amigos for 12 years now. For starters, get your CDL engaged. My general rule, when the Amigo lights go on and off randomly. so maybe pop on during a drive but then are gone on next start up, for example. I don't worry about that and just ignore it.
But, when the lights stay on always regardless of start up etc, then I read the codes and trace issue.
fixed everything but ever since, my odometer has been blinking. Truck drives fine and still records miles etc.
Also I've lived with 3 amigos for 12 years now. For starters, get your CDL engaged. My general rule, when the Amigo lights go on and off randomly. so maybe pop on during a drive but then are gone on next start up, for example. I don't worry about that and just ignore it.
But, when the lights stay on always regardless of start up etc, then I read the codes and trace issue.
I still have not bought the truck, by the way.
I would agree with getting the hood open and checking fluids first.
I would check out the front driveshaft before replacing or rebuilding it. I have a 2000 with just over 100k miles, my front driveshaft is fine. I would think a competent mechanic should be able to tell if a driveshaft is going bad by getting under the truck and checking it out, I'm talking about checking for play in the u joints and yoke. I check and lube mine every 3k miles when I change oil, I move one of the zerk fittings to the plug hole to lube the yoke. I live in Alaska and primarily drive the Landy in the winter, my driveshaft probably doesn't get heat soaked from high ambient temps and exhaust like a lot of them in warmer climates do though.
I would do option B for the three amigos and see what happens, I lived with mine for a couple of years, finally bought an ABS Amigo reader and found the problem. Had I just done the option B in the first place I never would have needed the ABS Amigo. I've not gotten the 3 amigos since I did the option B.
I would check out the front driveshaft before replacing or rebuilding it. I have a 2000 with just over 100k miles, my front driveshaft is fine. I would think a competent mechanic should be able to tell if a driveshaft is going bad by getting under the truck and checking it out, I'm talking about checking for play in the u joints and yoke. I check and lube mine every 3k miles when I change oil, I move one of the zerk fittings to the plug hole to lube the yoke. I live in Alaska and primarily drive the Landy in the winter, my driveshaft probably doesn't get heat soaked from high ambient temps and exhaust like a lot of them in warmer climates do though.
I would do option B for the three amigos and see what happens, I lived with mine for a couple of years, finally bought an ABS Amigo reader and found the problem. Had I just done the option B in the first place I never would have needed the ABS Amigo. I've not gotten the 3 amigos since I did the option B.
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lipadj46
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Sep 4, 2009 09:52 PM



