for those who have replaced their own head gaskets.....
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 62
Likes: 1
From: Chicago
for those who have replaced their own head gaskets.....
I have a few questions -
1) how critical is it that you have the heads milled? I have an '01 with 68k and a leaking head gasket that I'm replacing. It has NEVER overheated.
2) did you remove the fan when you were disassembling the motor?
also, I was lookin on AB's site for 8mm wires - but all they have for a d2 is 7mm magnecors? where do I obtain the 8mm magnecors from?
1) how critical is it that you have the heads milled? I have an '01 with 68k and a leaking head gasket that I'm replacing. It has NEVER overheated.
2) did you remove the fan when you were disassembling the motor?
also, I was lookin on AB's site for 8mm wires - but all they have for a d2 is 7mm magnecors? where do I obtain the 8mm magnecors from?
Last edited by 01d2Jeff; Jan 30, 2012 at 09:57 AM.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 88
From: Savannah Georgia
You will want the fan out of the way. Brace the serpantine belt, put a wrench on fan/water pump nut, and hit sharply with a hammer to break it loose - toward passenger side.
As for milling, you can check for flatness when head is off. Spec is .002 inch. To see what that would feel like, slide your finger over a single piece of printer paper - which is .0038 or close. Not a lot. Page from overhaul manual part of the RAVE attached for your review. Machine shops usually charge about $200 to do this and valve seals (not guides) with seals from your HG kit. But I would guess they would charge less to inspect. You can do yourrself with good straight edge and feeler gauge.
As for milling, you can check for flatness when head is off. Spec is .002 inch. To see what that would feel like, slide your finger over a single piece of printer paper - which is .0038 or close. Not a lot. Page from overhaul manual part of the RAVE attached for your review. Machine shops usually charge about $200 to do this and valve seals (not guides) with seals from your HG kit. But I would guess they would charge less to inspect. You can do yourrself with good straight edge and feeler gauge.
Thread Starter
|
Three Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 62
Likes: 1
From: Chicago
You will want the fan out of the way. Brace the serpantine belt, put a wrench on fan/water pump nut, and hit sharply with a hammer to break it loose - toward passenger side.
As for milling, you can check for flatness when head is off. Spec is .002 inch. To see what that would feel like, slide your finger over a single piece of printer paper - which is .0038 or close. Not a lot. Page from overhaul manual part of the RAVE attached for your review. Machine shops usually charge about $200 to do this and valve seals (not guides) with seals from your HG kit. But I would guess they would charge less to inspect. You can do yourrself with good straight edge and feeler gauge.
As for milling, you can check for flatness when head is off. Spec is .002 inch. To see what that would feel like, slide your finger over a single piece of printer paper - which is .0038 or close. Not a lot. Page from overhaul manual part of the RAVE attached for your review. Machine shops usually charge about $200 to do this and valve seals (not guides) with seals from your HG kit. But I would guess they would charge less to inspect. You can do yourrself with good straight edge and feeler gauge.
Thanks, Buzz. Just to clarify - the fan is RH thread, like the RAVE says? so, lefty loosey?
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