throttle body cleaning
#21
08-04-2009, 12:40 PM
Three Wheeling
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 77
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I just completed the Throttle body and induction cleaning. As everyone else, I thank Mike and Spike for all the how-to info.
The results are more then I imagined possible. I didn't think the truck was running bad before but I could notice a huge difference after all of the work was done. Idle is smooth as silk, acceleration all the way up to highway speed is awesome, and believe it or not...this also took care of my surging cruise issue...who knew !!.
Thanks again to all for the help, this board is the best !!
The results are more then I imagined possible. I didn't think the truck was running bad before but I could notice a huge difference after all of the work was done. Idle is smooth as silk, acceleration all the way up to highway speed is awesome, and believe it or not...this also took care of my surging cruise issue...who knew !!.
Thanks again to all for the help, this board is the best !!
#22
09-05-2009, 10:49 PM
Mudding
Spike,
I already have my intake and throttle body off because I am doing my head gaskets. My TB is dirty and I would like to clean it but I would like to disconnect it from my intake and clean both sides of the TB to make sure it is clean and done right. Do you know where I can get the gaskets that go between my TB and intake manifold?
I already have my intake and throttle body off because I am doing my head gaskets. My TB is dirty and I would like to clean it but I would like to disconnect it from my intake and clean both sides of the TB to make sure it is clean and done right. Do you know where I can get the gaskets that go between my TB and intake manifold?
#23
09-06-2009, 08:59 AM
Administrator
#25
10-04-2014, 02:55 AM
This is how you clean the throttle body on a DI with the V8.
The process is the same for all gas engines just the parts look different.
Run the left side front tire up onto a piece of wood, a curb, brick, anything to get that side of the truck slightly higher than the rest of the truck.
You do this so that the carb cleaner runs into the engine and not onto your valve covers and exhaust manifold.
Now here is a special tip, do NOT get the carb cleaner on the paint, it will eat it.
Remove your air intake tubing from the t-body and set off to the side.
It is best if you unhook it from the MAF (mass air flow sensor) and the t-body.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Take your can of carb cleaner and spray everything on, in and around the t-body.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Take your hand and open the throttle as far as it will go and spray all around inside the butterfly valve and as far inside of the intake plenum as you can reach.
Take caution as not to spray to much inside the intake.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Put it all back together and start the engine.
It will be hard to start and may spit and sputter for a few minutes.
It will do this because the engine is flooded.
Now drive it around the block a couple of times to make sure that all of the carb cleaner is burned.
I do this every spring aspart of my spring cleaning.
More to come.
From Jycsalas on 03-26-2010:
"Just to add that cleaning the t-body is exactly that, cleaning the t-body, NOT the "dump the whole can into the intake plenum" cleaning. Yes, you expect the cleaner fluid to get inside but ideally if one could remove the bolts attaching the t-body to the plenum/manifold w/out ruining the paper gasket and clean the t-body only, that would be best. THEN do the induction cleaning to clean the intake plenum. Or spray some cleaner lightly on the inside walls and use the plastic tooth brush.
SO spray only the insides of the t-body, spray the plate on both sides and use some shop towels or plastic tooth brush to wipe and clean if it's that bad. If it's so bad that the first couple of spray shots didn't get all of it, run the engine til it idles normal and repeat. Do that several times using the whole can and your engine will be golden. I personally never used an entire can AT A ONE TIME SHOT. OR if your skills aren't up to the challenge, buy the gasket for $3 http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ERR6623.cfm and clean the t-body only. While it's out, use a shop towel and tooth brush and clean the inside of the plenum as it won't harm anything. Bottom line is use your cleaner little by little....
This isn't rocket science...."
The process is the same for all gas engines just the parts look different.
Run the left side front tire up onto a piece of wood, a curb, brick, anything to get that side of the truck slightly higher than the rest of the truck.
You do this so that the carb cleaner runs into the engine and not onto your valve covers and exhaust manifold.
Now here is a special tip, do NOT get the carb cleaner on the paint, it will eat it.
Remove your air intake tubing from the t-body and set off to the side.
It is best if you unhook it from the MAF (mass air flow sensor) and the t-body.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Take your can of carb cleaner and spray everything on, in and around the t-body.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Take your hand and open the throttle as far as it will go and spray all around inside the butterfly valve and as far inside of the intake plenum as you can reach.
Take caution as not to spray to much inside the intake.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Put it all back together and start the engine.
It will be hard to start and may spit and sputter for a few minutes.
It will do this because the engine is flooded.
Now drive it around the block a couple of times to make sure that all of the carb cleaner is burned.
I do this every spring aspart of my spring cleaning.
More to come.
From Jycsalas on 03-26-2010:
"Just to add that cleaning the t-body is exactly that, cleaning the t-body, NOT the "dump the whole can into the intake plenum" cleaning. Yes, you expect the cleaner fluid to get inside but ideally if one could remove the bolts attaching the t-body to the plenum/manifold w/out ruining the paper gasket and clean the t-body only, that would be best. THEN do the induction cleaning to clean the intake plenum. Or spray some cleaner lightly on the inside walls and use the plastic tooth brush.
SO spray only the insides of the t-body, spray the plate on both sides and use some shop towels or plastic tooth brush to wipe and clean if it's that bad. If it's so bad that the first couple of spray shots didn't get all of it, run the engine til it idles normal and repeat. Do that several times using the whole can and your engine will be golden. I personally never used an entire can AT A ONE TIME SHOT. OR if your skills aren't up to the challenge, buy the gasket for $3 http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ERR6623.cfm and clean the t-body only. While it's out, use a shop towel and tooth brush and clean the inside of the plenum as it won't harm anything. Bottom line is use your cleaner little by little....
This isn't rocket science...."
#26
10-04-2014, 07:58 AM
A lot of the how-to's and stickys are like that on this and other boards. The people that did them have either removed them or moved on.
There are many ways to clean an intake. The way described in this thread works. I like BG's 3 part system, but you have to either have special equipment or have a shop do it. The link below is a decent DIY kit. I've seen it cheaper a few times so shop around for it.
There are many ways to clean an intake. The way described in this thread works. I like BG's 3 part system, but you have to either have special equipment or have a shop do it. The link below is a decent DIY kit. I've seen it cheaper a few times so shop around for it.
#28
10-06-2014, 02:49 PM
Mudding
.
this thread is 5 years old. the place that the pics where hosted where either deleted or the account has expired.
There are a few youtube videos on how to clean the throttle body/ maf and the iac valve.
this thread is 5 years old. the place that the pics where hosted where either deleted or the account has expired.
There are a few youtube videos on how to clean the throttle body/ maf and the iac valve.
#29
01-21-2015, 05:41 PM
My local shop just installed a new Nessians Radiator after the nipple valve broke off.
I am now the official owner of my girlfriend's '00 Disco II.
After getting it back I changed the oil to Rotella 15w-40 with a Napa 1068 filter. (hopefully silence the 'Flat Tappet Cam', which I can still hear at idle.
Today I cleaned the Throttle Body. Very Simple. Though I'd share a few pics.
Supplies:
1.(1) can of Throttle Body/Carb Cleaner (use moderately and let DRY COMPLETELY before reinstall and engine start!)
2. Clean shop towels
Instructions:
Spray TB/Carb cleaner into throttle body and wipe out with clean shop towl. (Repeat till Clean & let DRY!)
I am now the official owner of my girlfriend's '00 Disco II.
After getting it back I changed the oil to Rotella 15w-40 with a Napa 1068 filter. (hopefully silence the 'Flat Tappet Cam', which I can still hear at idle.
Today I cleaned the Throttle Body. Very Simple. Though I'd share a few pics.
Supplies:
1.(1) can of Throttle Body/Carb Cleaner (use moderately and let DRY COMPLETELY before reinstall and engine start!)
2. Clean shop towels
Instructions:
Spray TB/Carb cleaner into throttle body and wipe out with clean shop towl. (Repeat till Clean & let DRY!)
Last edited by Flyhighdp; 01-21-2015 at 05:47 PM.
The following users liked this post:
stb616 (01-22-2015)
#30
01-22-2015, 06:04 AM
Good update. One thing that should be clarified...... There are cans of "throttle body/intake cleaner." There are cans of "throttle body/carb cleaner." There are cans of "carb cleaner." You should only use the ones say specifically say they are safe throttle body/intakes. Some of the "carb cleaner is bit too harsh and can damage some of the internal parts that have a coating on them.
Same goes for a mass air flow. Only use a cleaner that's specifically made for it.
Same goes for a mass air flow. Only use a cleaner that's specifically made for it.