Throttle body froze up
Sure enough... My throttle body froze up tonight on the way home from work 🤤 Luckily it wasn't anywhere near full throttle. I just pulled it into a parking lot and it thawed pretty quick as the air intake temp rose. A couple of taps to the pedal and the butterfly opened and closed properly again. I'm definitely installing the TBH kit I've had sitting in the garage since August ASAP!
Pro Wrench
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 137
From: NE PA
I have my TBH bypassed and it went down to -9 F here last week. I was watching the intake temperature and it got as low as -1 F when driving at speed. When it gets that cold, the air is pretty dry. I would imagine that the risk of icing up would increase with humidity. The next few days will be very cold here - I'm plugging in the block heater tonight!
So my throttle froze up this morning again and this time the HDC warning lamp came on. I read the ABS codes and, of all things, I got a 4021 position sensor fault and 4110 sticking throttle fault. I guess Land Rover didn't want us going down a hill in hill descent mode with a throttle stuck open 😉 It would probably make for an exciting ride 🤤
As in the now famous run away Audi's in the late 80's, and the Prius if it freezes up just slap it into N, and pull over when possible and shut it off vs the Audi/Prius Club of calling 911 in an unstoppable car lol.
Thread Starter
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Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 856
Likes: 154
Hey Best. I got your info and have ordered the repair kit from luck 8. I will scrub the TB down and reconnect the heat unit. I will slather some good sealant on the gasket before I reconnect.
As for me, the TBH bypass question is now settled. If you are in USDA zone 6 or higher just bypass. Zones 1 thru 5 best keep that baby hooked up.
Either way, keeping your TB clean never hurts.
As for me, the TBH bypass question is now settled. If you are in USDA zone 6 or higher just bypass. Zones 1 thru 5 best keep that baby hooked up.
Either way, keeping your TB clean never hurts.
Yep I agree down south for sure = bypass. Up North where -0 happens during the winter I agree it is a good idea & much easier to deal with if it does leak vs down south where you could overheat from it quickly if it leaks bad enough.
Right Stuff is the one RTV I truly swear by and I think with a clean surface, new gasket, and a light coat of Right Stuff it could hold up. I’ve got a snorkel on the 99 D2 and at 75MPH in 30F weather the intake was like 5F cooler than the ambient temp on the HVAC. I’m probably going to look into the round style snorkel top vs the ARB style intake, I just need to verify the diameter.
Right Stuff is the one RTV I truly swear by and I think with a clean surface, new gasket, and a light coat of Right Stuff it could hold up. I’ve got a snorkel on the 99 D2 and at 75MPH in 30F weather the intake was like 5F cooler than the ambient temp on the HVAC. I’m probably going to look into the round style snorkel top vs the ARB style intake, I just need to verify the diameter.
The springs on the TB are very strong, but I’ve seen 2 TB lock up at WOT. One froze up on the owner while north of Dallas, TX last winter during severe weather. The other TB locked up locally on a D2 a friend had just bought. I swapped them out with clean good spares I had and sent them on their way. Both had TBH’s bypassed. The Dallas guy went straight back into nasty weather & it never acted up again. My friend’s D2 never has acted up either. Both were not clean by any means when I removed them. The Dallas one = didn’t really feel sticky, but off the D2 and on a work bench you could flick it to WOT and it would stick totally open & stay open (even after I cleaned it with carb spray & it looked spotless).
I experimented on it & removed all the springs, and the TB plate, used scotchbrite on the TB Plate outer edge & inside the TB body. Put it all back together & it was silky smooth & no longer stuck. Did the same procedure to the other one and it also now works perfectly.
Our D2’s aren’t getting any newer and I think the old rag & carb spray technique isn’t really effective at getting it 100%. I’ve currently got the Dallas TB on my 02 Westminster and it’s flawless.
When I was always on the H3 Forums the 3.5/3.7L I5 guys were always getting their TB polished. H3’s aren’t cable driven like a D2, but the 3.5/3.7L I5 or 5.3L V8’s DO NOT have a TBH and many of the owners were from Alaska & Canada. Not one ever reported a TB freezing.
Fact is anything can happen, just gonna depend on the condition of the part, is it in an area where the TB springs are subjected to rust, moisture, ice, equipped with a snorkel, what speed are you driving in, what temp, and yada yada yada.
I now remove my TB’s from the D2 (super simple without a TBH), break it down, clean it, and rebuild it. Doesn’t take long at all and I keep track of when I do it.
I experimented on it & removed all the springs, and the TB plate, used scotchbrite on the TB Plate outer edge & inside the TB body. Put it all back together & it was silky smooth & no longer stuck. Did the same procedure to the other one and it also now works perfectly.
Our D2’s aren’t getting any newer and I think the old rag & carb spray technique isn’t really effective at getting it 100%. I’ve currently got the Dallas TB on my 02 Westminster and it’s flawless.
When I was always on the H3 Forums the 3.5/3.7L I5 guys were always getting their TB polished. H3’s aren’t cable driven like a D2, but the 3.5/3.7L I5 or 5.3L V8’s DO NOT have a TBH and many of the owners were from Alaska & Canada. Not one ever reported a TB freezing.
Fact is anything can happen, just gonna depend on the condition of the part, is it in an area where the TB springs are subjected to rust, moisture, ice, equipped with a snorkel, what speed are you driving in, what temp, and yada yada yada.
I now remove my TB’s from the D2 (super simple without a TBH), break it down, clean it, and rebuild it. Doesn’t take long at all and I keep track of when I do it.
Last edited by Best4x4; Feb 1, 2019 at 07:54 PM.
