Throttle Body Heater Plate - again??
#51
Coolant exits the front end of the upper intake via three routes - the manifold outlet pipe that is something like 1-1/4" and runs to the radiator, the heater inlet pipe that is maybe 3/4", and the throttle body line that is 5/16". Clearly the bulk of the coolant is going to the radiator and the heater and even if judged to be "a good amount of flow from the intake to the reservoir" I note that it goes to the reservoir and not to the radiator or heater. Granted some small amount of cooling occurs for the coolant that routes through the reservoir but that's not its purpose.
Plugging the TBH lines with bolts is just fine.
Plugging the TBH lines with bolts is just fine.
Of coarse the flow is bigger in the larger hoses, but I've seen plenty of dead P38/D2 bosch engines due to that silly heater plate leaking. It's slow enough to not be noticed that easily by the un-mechanical eye, but drive it enough and adios 4.0/4.6L.
I re-route it minus the throttle body & I have zero issues bleeding any of my D2's. Any coolant flowing is better than nothing regardless of hose diameter in my books.
I once pulled a heater hose off that had been stopped via a large plug on a Jeep and the amount of debris/goo behind it was gross.
#52
Risky decision. Engineers with far more knowledge of humidity, temperature, airflow, and data decided this heater is needed. I had an '86 Ford Ranger that froze up at cruising speed. The hot air riser tube was not in place from previous owner. It was a foggy very cold morning in Minnesota. I was able to hard stomp the accelaerator several times and release it. Talk about adrenaline rush as you approach a stoplight! Had my wife been driving I don't even want to think of what could have happened. When I pulled over and checked, the whole throttle body was covered in heavy white frost, along with the majority of the front of the truck. Most all vehicles have air or electric heaters in place. There's a reason.
At minimum, if you sell the truck, tell the new owner what you did and the risk they are taking by bypassing. Mine was bypassed and is functional now. Parts don't last forever, maintain it the same as any other part.
At minimum, if you sell the truck, tell the new owner what you did and the risk they are taking by bypassing. Mine was bypassed and is functional now. Parts don't last forever, maintain it the same as any other part.
#53
#54
I agree 100%, the design of this part is a total B$ afterthought. But lets say that in the infinite wisdom of LR engineers that this heated throttle body was needed.... then why can't the design be simple enough (like on other cars) NOT TO LEAK!
#55
Thank goodness with my LR3 it seems like Ford got it figured out lol
#56
If you live in a cold climate DO NOT BYPASS the throttle body heater. I bypassed mine 2 months ago. Today was first real cold day (Minus 29 degrees Celsius). I warmed up the truck to about 165 F at idle and started to gently drive. 4 minutes later, my throttle was stuck, the engine was racing, and I had a difficult time nailing the gas pedal in an effort to
unstick it. DO NOT BYPASS in cold climates!
unstick it. DO NOT BYPASS in cold climates!
#58
If you live in a cold climate DO NOT BYPASS the throttle body heater. I bypassed mine 2 months ago. Today was first real cold day (Minus 29 degrees Celsius). I warmed up the truck to about 165 F at idle and started to gently drive. 4 minutes later, my throttle was stuck, the engine was racing, and I had a difficult time nailing the gas pedal in an effort to
unstick it. DO NOT BYPASS in cold climates!
unstick it. DO NOT BYPASS in cold climates!
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Daymeon
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09-10-2009 01:12 PM