I have a 2004 Discovery with just over 104,000 miles. Purchased in March of 2011 with 78,000 miles. I believe I am the third owner. It was solid when I bought it with no abnormal engine noises. I started noticing a ticking somewhere around 90,000. After researching several sites, I decided to go with the Purolator L40316 filter and Rotella T 15W-40 oil hoping it would make the tick go away. It did not. I wish I had checked my oil pressures prior to switching to the Purolator filter but didn't.

The ticking seems to be getting worse and I have started pricing new cams and lifters. I spoke to Mark at D&D Fabrications and he priced a stage 2 cam kit that I am in the process of funding (I can send you my PayPal information if anyone is interested in sponsoring the upgrade ). In preparation for the new cam and because the ticking seems to have gotten louder, I measured my oil pressure this evening.

My cold readings were 54 psi at idle and 58 psi at 2K rpm. Warm readings were 26 psi at idle and 51 psi at 2K rpm. Do these reading look right to those of you who have done the Purolator L40316 filter upgrade? Any advice on what i should look for as I replace the cam?

 

You oil PSI readings are what would be expected on a D2. The filter might have made them just a touch higher, but what you have now is what should be there. Cold, the thick oil makes the bypass valve in the filter open up, so idle and revved up are about the same. As bypass valve closes and filter media comes on line, the idle pressure drops.

IMHO valve ticking could be at a different repetion rate from "the tick". Would also seem that if valve train, a stethoscope or stick or pipe held to the valve cover and listened to might reveal much. Valve train noises seem to be present at cranking, slipped sleeves begin as block warms up and sleeve can move. Some theorize that at revved up speed, the piston friction changes get to a certain point and the sleeve can't physically travel to make the tick before it has to reverse, so ticking is more noticed at slower rpm. There is also pinning the sleeve which has been well written up on this site.

I think you have elimianted the oil pump as a tick source. A recent post from another owner found the cracked outer ring on his oil pump, but his warm numbers were half of yours. My poor old D1 does 44 PSI, and spec for it is 30-40. However, if doing the cam, you will certainly be in a position to inspect the oil pump gears (there is a RAVE procedure for it, and some have found scoring of the front cover, which required that being replaced).

 

Hi,
Do you have a 4.6?
I test drove a 4.6 in Seattle. I think it was a 2003 or 2004 Discovery.
When the Discovery first warmed up - there was only a slight tick.
Sounded like valve train.

I had to drive it a few miles in the city - for about 20 minutes to 1/2 an hour and then the tick was really loud.

Just noodling it with my head under the hood the tick looked to be coming from the middle of the driver's side.

And, it could be heard LOUD with the hood closed and about 20 feet from the truck.

The BEST way to get this tick noise down in my opinion - is to LOWER the temp of the engine.

You could try to run with the soft spring thermostat.

Due to thermal expansion - the block will expand faster then the liner and the liner will then move.

A few fellows have "pinned" the liner.
This involves taking the oil pan off.
drilling a hole into the side of the engine and thru the liner.
Then a screw is put in to be flush with the liner.

The other avenue seems to be putting in a new liner called a "top hat".

---
I would take the simple approach and try to lower the temps of your engine.

Get a scanner which measures the temps via the OBD-II report and tell us what temps you have when the tapping is around.

---
To Savannah's well put point:

The piston tap will be twice the frequency of a valve train tap.
The valves are 1/2 as fast due to the reduction gear being twice the teeth as the driving gear on the camshaft.

There is no way to see the valves operating.
But, if you could see them going up and down visually and via your ears you could hear the tap and if they were a 1:1 ratio - then you can eliminate the loose liner.

If the tap is twice the speed of the valve train then you may have a loose liner.

If you MY is 2003 - 2004 and you have a 4.6 liter, then you are in the "risk" band of a possible loose liner I have heard.

Don't worry.
I have a 2001 with transmission problems and a shake at 65-70MPH so I have my own problems...

 

Is the tick constant or only at idle after it warms up?

 

As I mentioned on the other forum, your oil pressure readings are way to high, most likely from a bad gauge.
You need to quit driving it, open it up and do a complete valve train inspection to rule out a liner.

 

It doesn't tick at start-up. The ticking starts once the engine is warm.

 

see https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...hlight=pinning

 

Slipped liners are as common on the '04's as cheese is on a pizza.
Some say driving it HARD for 20min or so cures it for a few days to a week, other says the cheapest gas you can find, others say a cold thermostat, others say just live with it.
I have no advice for you on this.
If it were mine I'd just live with it.

 

I have an 03 disco which started ticking when it gets up to temp. Mine is not the oil pump and if when I tow my heavy boat or ATV then the tick will go away for about month then returns so I am pretty sure its a liner moving. My solution let it be and when and if the engine goes bang I will replace it, just live with it..

 

It would be interesting with an Ultra Gauge or scanner to note coolant temp where tick starts. With an in-line thermostat setup you could in theory use a 160F stat. Cheap gas... a'int so cheap anymore... guess the theory is burnt carbon and varnish build up will stick the liner.