Wondering if any gear heads can help me with this, as I most dutifully purchased the complete Disco Manual/Service/Workshop CD, only to discover that it is Windows/PC only... and I happen to "smoke the Apple crack". So, while I dig up an old laptop for workshop use... perhaps one of you could solve a small problem for me.

I recently purchased the 4-joint steering rebuild kit from Atlantic British which came as less of a kit and, more accurately, 4 boxed joints with no instructions. While I don't need a paint-by-numbers on replacing tie rod ends, I could sure use some torque specs on those castle nuts! The vehicle is a 1995 Disco I/3.9 and I need the torque specs for the tie rod and drag link ends.

Incidentally, for those with their tie rods ends stuck in their sleeves, I managed to get mine out using the pipe jaws of good bench vise, some PB Blaster and a little coaxing with a cold chisel and ball peen hammer. After removing the steering stabilizer and tie rod ends, take the whole unit into the shop. Knock the heavy off the threads and out of the slits with a wire brush, give it a good soaking of PB and let it sit overnight. Then, clamp it firmly in the bench vise and knock the two sides of each slot with the cold chisel, angling slightly so as to force the slot open, rather than driving it in toward the threads. While it may not actually move, the shock will help break the bond between the two parts. Don't beat the living hell out of the thing and mash all your threads! It'll only make matters worse when you try to unscrew it. Just some good sound blows pushing each side out and a few sharp raps straight on the end of the joint should be enough shock to loosen up the physical bond between parts, while the PB works on the bond chemically.

Next, use a pipe wrench on the tie rod end itself. Apparently the previous owner of my 1995 Disco hadn't had the alignment checked in over a decade, because I had to throw a 1 1/2" box end wrench on the pipe wrench handle just to get enough leverage to budge the thing. Still, I got them out without pulling out an oxy-acetylene torch, which can easily change the hardness of the metal, causing potential problems down the road.

I marked my tie rod and measured the center-center length on the old ends, so I'm sure I'm within 1/4" of accurate on my alignment. Still, I'll toddle over to have the alignment checked when it's all back together. Better to pay for 4 joints and an alignment than 8 joints AND and alignment, to be sure. Or, as my old friend Bubba used to say... "do 'er nice or do 'er twice!"

 

Incidentally, the tie rod/track rod ends I installed are the Britpart sealed bearing type (RTC5869)