tie rod replacement
#1
tie rod replacement
I need to replace a tie rod....are all 4 the same part or is each one different? I would like to replace all of them since there is 132k on the truck.
Thanks,
Steve
PS the bad one is the passengers side rear tie rod.....
Thanks,
Steve
PS the bad one is the passengers side rear tie rod.....
Last edited by jrm123180; 12-04-2011 at 08:53 PM.
#2
While their prices are up there, the profit allows Rovers North to have nice exploded diagrams - see: Land Rover Discovery II Steering Parts Available from RoversNorth.com
Shop around.
Shop around.
#4
I did all four on mine at one time, took most of the day and the beer. But I would imagine you could do one now, and save the rest for later. But it would appear that unlike the D1, where they are all little short ball joints, the D2 has what could be called the long end. And it is listed in parts layouts that way.
#5
#6
#9
Just replace my drag link (in front of axle) - 2004 D2. Shopped around and found the long part (with staked, non-adjustable rod end and tube) for $85.73 delivered. I had already purchased the adjustable end a few weeks earlier for about $22. I had to use the existing clamps and adjuster, but this was the best deal I could find (Lemforder):
1 LRV073408 Genuine Drag Link 69.16
Subtotal: 69.16
Estimated Shipping: 16.57
Total Estimated Charges: $ 85.73
importautopart.net
1-800-590-0306.
Prices for the rest should be good as well.
Hope this helps.
1 LRV073408 Genuine Drag Link 69.16
Subtotal: 69.16
Estimated Shipping: 16.57
Total Estimated Charges: $ 85.73
importautopart.net
1-800-590-0306.
Prices for the rest should be good as well.
Hope this helps.
#10
Tie rod ends
The drag link (in front of axle) connects the steering box to the knuckle. The track rod (behind axle) connects the knuckles together. If you replace the drag link, you don't need an alignment because it only affects the steering wheel orientation. Install, take some wrenches and go for a drive - adjust till wheel is centered. I've never had a straight wheel after a professional alignment, mine now is dead straight because I took the time to get it right. As for the track rod, I did a tape measure alignment on my D1 that worked great and didn't wear tires after 20k miles. Mark tires at center of tread facing front and measure distance. Use carpenter's level to make sure you rotate wheels 180 degrees. Measure again with marks facing rear - this is the toe-in (out) measurement. Adjust to spec in RAVE. Worked great for me, will at least be good enough to get you to an alignment shop.