So here are some pictures of the crank shaft on my spare 2004 4.6L block. It was amazing to me to see there is no bearing that the crankshaft runs on. This would be your engine turned upside down. The oil pan would attach over this section sticking out of the block. There is no front cover on the engine block. Its a 24mm bolt that holds on the harmonic balancer. I guess with each revolution of the crankshaft it would dip into the oil pan and lubricate itself. It always amazes me the metal parts that contact each other with only oil to lube them.

 

Oh yes I was referring to a vehical lift to work under. .....I've read to many posts and got confused. I dont know the brand name. But my friends dad has waited now 4 weeks for the cement to set up and we are now ready to install the vertical polls.

 

2 questions;

1. Do I need to use the Special LR tool to hold the crank while I loosen the front crank bolt to replace the front crank seal? I heard they may be an access panel in the tranny to hold the motor? Or will putting it in park be enough?

2. If I want to replace the front crank seal only, are there any other gaskets or seals that have to be replaced to get to this one?

Thanks,

 

Hello racingwoody

Putting the Rover into park will still allow the engine to turn. The parking brake and transmission brake pawl do not isolate the engine. So 2 options. Be sure to disconnect your battery, so your engine could not possible start.

Option 1:

• Drop your oil pan and replace the oil pan gasket. While having that removed you can put a lever in the opening of the fly wheel. This will stop your crankshaft from turning.

Option 2:

• Round inspection cover on the trans Bell housing...remove 3 bolts. You can try and insert a long screw driver or lever to stop the fly wheel from turning. It is hard to get past the steel flange of the torque converter. It can be done but can take many attempts. I have heard form another person on here this is how the Pro's do it.

Have a good 3/4 foot cheater bar handy to remove the crankshaft bolt its on there good. But will come loose when its isolated. You will also need a good heavy duty pick set to remove the old crankshaft seal. A short piece of PVC pipe the same diameter of the seal to tap/set it in place. A deep socket will not work b/c the crankshaft sticks out too far.

 

thank you

 

Just for giggles power wash all of the oil off the under side of your rover. run it for a couple of minutes and the let it sit. come back and check. My oil leak ended up being the oil pressure sensor and I had oil migration not unlike yours. Won't hurt to chck... lot easier to fix...

Cheers

 

I think this tool could help hold the pulley in place while removing the bolt

 

I cleaned the bottom of the dripping motor and also did a dye test and it is for sure coming from the front crank shaft seal.

I may pick up one of those tools at Harbor freight today just to have in case.

Also does anyone know what the threads are on the oil sending unit where you test for oil pressure are? The shop I am working at has one pressure guage that has threads that work on Audi, VW, and porshe no matter what year but they don't have multiple to switch on for different applications. Does anyone know if these threads are the same as the LR ones.

Thanks

 

racingwoody

You will need some extra chain for that chain vise-grip tool. The one at Harbor Freight only is about 6/7" long. That ran through my mind, take a picture of your setup if you get it to work. Total circumference of the harmonic balancer pulley is 22". Yeah its a lot more than your would think for a 7 1\8" diameter pulley.

 

Crow bar and a pair of G clamps
But I did have the radiator out.