Time to Rebuild Bottom End
This has been a great thread to read from start to finish. Congratulations for solving the problem and gaining or exhibiting a great deal of tenacity, skill, and knowledge in the process.
Having been in the same situation explained in the original post, and having worked through the same process after looking to the internet for diagnosis and advice, I think this thread will provide reference for others. Put simply, this thread describes what to do when an old land rover looses its oil pump and the engine is starved for oil. Or, "How to turn a 500 dollar land rover into something that will last more than a decade." Either way, No Doubt has shown good stewardship of the forum. I have been frustrated, hot or cold, sometimes wet, and always dirty, and did not always show the grit No Doubt did when time came to take pictures, post, or research when it required cleaning hands or sacrificing cell phone, or just stopping what I was doing
Well done.
Having been in the same situation explained in the original post, and having worked through the same process after looking to the internet for diagnosis and advice, I think this thread will provide reference for others. Put simply, this thread describes what to do when an old land rover looses its oil pump and the engine is starved for oil. Or, "How to turn a 500 dollar land rover into something that will last more than a decade." Either way, No Doubt has shown good stewardship of the forum. I have been frustrated, hot or cold, sometimes wet, and always dirty, and did not always show the grit No Doubt did when time came to take pictures, post, or research when it required cleaning hands or sacrificing cell phone, or just stopping what I was doing
Well done.
Over time, your O2 sensors slow down, for example. Your battery voltage varies. Fuel injectors clog a little and that impacts your rich/lean condition so your ECU stores values so that it can make faster, more accurate decisions, and it is always learning so that it can change as components age or are replaced.
Knock sensors for retarding engine timing, etc.
Well, I've replaced a lot!
So it's time to reset the ECU with a good scan tool. That forces the ECU to start from factory default values and then rapidly "learn" the new components.
Well, covered in assembly lube over the couple of nights before installation et al and I had to hit the crank with some Scotch Brite "elbow grease" to rub off the light dusting of rust that came even while submerged in the assembly lube.
So this post is sort of a heads up to other Dico drivers. Assembly lube doesn't always prevent rust.
FYI.
This has been a great thread to read from start to finish. Congratulations for solving the problem and gaining or exhibiting a great deal of tenacity, skill, and knowledge in the process.
Having been in the same situation explained in the original post, and having worked through the same process after looking to the internet for diagnosis and advice, I think this thread will provide reference for others. Put simply, this thread describes what to do when an old land rover loses its oil pump and the engine is starved for oil. Or, "How to turn a 500 dollar land rover into something that will last more than a decade." Either way, No Doubt has shown good stewardship of the forum. I have been frustrated, hot or cold, sometimes wet, and always dirty, and did not always show the grit No Doubt did when time came to take pictures, post, or research when it required cleaning hands or sacrificing cell phone, or just stopping what I was doing
Well done.
Having been in the same situation explained in the original post, and having worked through the same process after looking to the internet for diagnosis and advice, I think this thread will provide reference for others. Put simply, this thread describes what to do when an old land rover loses its oil pump and the engine is starved for oil. Or, "How to turn a 500 dollar land rover into something that will last more than a decade." Either way, No Doubt has shown good stewardship of the forum. I have been frustrated, hot or cold, sometimes wet, and always dirty, and did not always show the grit No Doubt did when time came to take pictures, post, or research when it required cleaning hands or sacrificing cell phone, or just stopping what I was doing
Well done.
I feel a lot better with the project "completed" (still have to put on the hood and remove the gold exhaust tape) than I did back when I was in deep with the disassembled motor.
It would have been so *easy* to have stalled and let this project stretch for years or forever rather than forcing myself to knock it out.
You get dirty. You get greasy. Crap falls into your face when you are below the Disco and you drop tools or nuts while you are above.
I know that I lost one bolt that went into "The Great Disco Void" somewhere in the center of the vehicle, for example!
I did reposition those blasted O2 sensor wiring harness connections so that they are easier to reach, though.
In most projects I feel like I have parts left over, but on this project I feel like I am about 6 nuts/bolts short, as if a little gremlin ran in and took a half dozen of the smallest fittings.
It wasn't really until the last 2 days that I could see my pile of parts shrink.
It was hard to believe it was real when I didn't have anything else left to bolt back into the engine bay!
...and then she started right up on the 2nd try. Sweet music.
Last edited by No Doubt; Feb 28, 2018 at 09:47 AM.
Other notes:
I didn't label any of the electrical connections when I disconnected them prior to pulling my motor. I worried a bit about it but I was just trying to keep up momentum so that my project didn't stall out early.
It turns out that labeling them wasn't necessary.
The *length* of each arm of each wiring harness and the size of the fitting (e.g. 2 prong or 3 prong or male/female) meant that when I was connecting everything back up I simply needed to pull each to its outstretched harness position (i.e. no slack in the line) and there was the correct sensor or device for it to plug into.
Also, I didn't need to disconnect the Power Steering or AC lines. I just removed their brackets and tied those pumps to the side of the engine bay. No need to evacuate your freon!
Likewise, I only removed one coolant radiator of the three (the one closest to the motor). The other two weren't in the way and in no way hampered removal of the motor and reinstallation.
I didn't label any of the electrical connections when I disconnected them prior to pulling my motor. I worried a bit about it but I was just trying to keep up momentum so that my project didn't stall out early.
It turns out that labeling them wasn't necessary.
The *length* of each arm of each wiring harness and the size of the fitting (e.g. 2 prong or 3 prong or male/female) meant that when I was connecting everything back up I simply needed to pull each to its outstretched harness position (i.e. no slack in the line) and there was the correct sensor or device for it to plug into.
Also, I didn't need to disconnect the Power Steering or AC lines. I just removed their brackets and tied those pumps to the side of the engine bay. No need to evacuate your freon!
Likewise, I only removed one coolant radiator of the three (the one closest to the motor). The other two weren't in the way and in no way hampered removal of the motor and reinstallation.
Last edited by No Doubt; Feb 28, 2018 at 10:09 AM.
It's more than just the error codes. The ECU stores fuel and ignition timing information and "learns" as various components on our Discos age.
Over time, your O2 sensors slow down, for example. Your battery voltage varies. Fuel injectors clog a little and that impacts your rich/lean condition so your ECU stores values so that it can make faster, more accurate decisions, and it is always learning so that it can change as components age or are replaced.
Knock sensors for retarding engine timing, etc.
Well, I've replaced a lot!
So it's time to reset the ECU with a good scan tool. That forces the ECU to start from factory default values and then rapidly "learn" the new components.
Over time, your O2 sensors slow down, for example. Your battery voltage varies. Fuel injectors clog a little and that impacts your rich/lean condition so your ECU stores values so that it can make faster, more accurate decisions, and it is always learning so that it can change as components age or are replaced.
Knock sensors for retarding engine timing, etc.
Well, I've replaced a lot!
So it's time to reset the ECU with a good scan tool. That forces the ECU to start from factory default values and then rapidly "learn" the new components.
Yeah, that's what I thought you meant.
I reset everything with a Hawkeye before I sent it back
(pos was supposed to be able to program keys, but actually cannot...I will be buying a Nanocom).
I can check this afternoon with my scantool. The oil pressure dummy light turned off so fast that I didn't even concern myself with it.
Wow!
That dummy light was my reason for the rebuild!
Go figure.
Wow!
That dummy light was my reason for the rebuild!
Go figure.


