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Time to Rebuild Bottom End

Old Mar 1, 2018 | 09:12 PM
  #101  
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Well, my Foxwell scanner doesn't display my oil pressure and I seem to have misplaced my ELM327 which does. Bummer.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2018 | 05:59 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by No Doubt
Well, my Foxwell scanner doesn't display my oil pressure and I seem to have misplaced my ELM327 which does. Bummer.
I am covered up with elm327 units but they won't read oil pressure because there is no input for l.p. to the ecu, wish there was.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2018 | 11:09 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by Extinct
I am covered up with elm327 units but they won't read oil pressure because there is no input for l.p. to the ecu, wish there was.
I'm pretty sure that they read a pressure value from the oil pressure sensor to the ECU.

Sure, there's just a dummy gage on the dashboard instruments, but the ECU knows the actual pressure.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2018 | 11:19 AM
  #104  
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Well, returning to the Disco2 in daylight after the first start of the new (rebuilt) motor and of course there are minor probs.

ECU reported a bad MAF, bad coolant temp sensor, and bad idle air control valve.

I cleaned the sensors with electronics spray and that fixed the MAF and coolant temp sensor.

I pulled the idle air control valve and hit it with WD40 internally. Didn't fix it. Sheesh. It was *fine* before I rebuilt this motor, too. Oh well, two out of three aint bad.



Idle is too low. Barely above 500 rpms now that I'm not yanking on the throttle cable in the engine bay to break in the new performance cam.

After about 10 minutes the driver side cat is glowing a faint/light purple at the very rear where it meets the exhaust pipe.

So now I've got to check for a driver side exhaust leak, leaky fuel injector (which I specifically tested prior to installing), coil packs, spark plug wires, etc on the driver side.


I've also ordered an idle air control valve.

I'm thinking that the easy first test will be to pull off one spark plug wire at a time on the drivers side to see if pulling it off kills my idle. If pulling off a spark plug wire makes no difference, then I will have identified a problem.


If pulling off the plug wires fails to identify a problem, then I've got to put sensors into the O2 front/back ports to check backpressure on the driver side exhaust in case I've got a clogged cat.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2018 | 05:06 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by No Doubt
Idle is too low. Barely above 500 rpms now that I'm not yanking on the throttle cable in the engine bay to break in the new performance cam.

After about 10 minutes the driver side cat is glowing a faint/light purple at the very rear where it meets the exhaust pipe.

So now I've got to check for a driver side exhaust leak, leaky fuel injector (which I specifically tested prior to installing), coil packs, spark plug wires, etc on the driver side.
Installed a new coil pack pair today and my idle returned to 750 RPMs. Did some test laps. Checked the cats. No glowing.

Went 4x4'ing.

Checked the cats after I got back from the off-road course. No glowing.

This Disco2 is back on the road!


Well, I need to add some coolant because I had a loose hose, and I need to reinstall the hood.

Fantastic off-roading now! I'm loving the new Crower performance cam. No change in idle smoothness. Not lumpy. Just more low-end pep.

Really, the difference between buying a new OEM cam or the Crower cam was maybe $160. This was definitely the time+place to do that one performance mod.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2018 | 05:20 PM
  #106  
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This project from start to finish, all in with new performance cam, including fluids (e.g. new oil+coolant) and machine shop work set me back about $1,966.


I could have saved $160 by using a new OEM cam instead of the new Crower performance cam.

I could have saved $300 by re-using the old oil pump cover and just buying the new oil pump gears.

I could have saved $300 by waiting for the required gaskets to be shipped from the UK instead of buying them here.

So it is *technically* possible to rebuild your Disco 2 motor for $1,206 all-in.







*Also, as a reference point, I had the "tick-ticking" prior to my rebuild, but it is gone now. If you look through this thread you can see one pic where I identified a valve spring shaving metal off of the head... that I fixed.

Other than that, just new bearings. Liners are *not* pinned. Easy-enough to do if it needs that fix, of course, but clearly slipping cylinder sleeves are *not* the only cause of the Disco 2 tick.

I had increased my oil to 20W50 trying to deaden that "tick" before my rebuild, too. Now I'm running 10W30 during my break-in period, so the cure for the ticking is *not* heavier oil!
 

Last edited by No Doubt; Mar 4, 2018 at 05:41 PM.
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 10:21 PM
  #107  
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I whacked my old Idle Air Control Valve with a wrench. Ping!

It started working again.

Then the new one arrived in the mail today. Oy vey.
 

Last edited by No Doubt; Mar 5, 2018 at 10:23 PM.
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 10:28 PM
  #108  
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Put the hood back onto the Disco finally. All road worthy.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2018 | 03:37 PM
  #109  
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I've been zipping around town today. Man, this 4.6 motor has some PEP now with the new Crower cam!

Zip! Zip!

This should have been the factory original option way back when. I'm going to do some freeway driving tonight and I'll try to remember to check RPMs at 70 MPH just to have some sort of reference.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2018 | 03:39 PM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by No Doubt
I've been zipping around town today. Man, this 4.6 motor has some PEP now with the new Crower cam!

Zip! Zip!

This should have been the factory original option way back when. I'm going to do some freeway driving tonight and I'll try to remember to check RPMs at 70 MPH just to have some sort of reference.

Let us know. Also put it on the DYNO!!!
 
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