Update: used a cam removal tool for the first time today. Kind of neat!

It's a long metal stick with a bulb at one end. You insert this stick where the cam used to reside inside the block, and when the bulb is under a cam bearing (there are 5!) you lock the front end of the metal stick with a wrench while twisting the stick/handle to expand the bulb.

When it gets slightly tight (no overkill required or desired), you then whack the exposed end of the metal stick with a big hammer. The cam bearing is then popped out of the block, but still stuck to the bulb on the end of the cam removal tool.

Then you twist the metal stick in the opposite direction to shrink the bulb so that the old cam bearing drops off of the removal tool.

Repeat 4 more times.

Let me tell you, locking that tool with a wrench would be a serious **CHALLENGE** to anyone attempting to do this job on the last #5 cam bearing with the motor still inside your Disco 2.

Of course, I pulled the blasted motor, so I could pop off the freeze plug at the back end of where the cam goes in order to get my wrench on the cam removal tool. How the heck someone could manage that trick with the motor still in their Disco would be a mystery to me.

I *think* the only practical way to get that last cam bearing is with the motor out. Don't get me wrong, I'm happy to be corrected if there is a way, but at this point this is the FIRST real advantage to all of my crap work pulling the motor (I really wanted to leave it in the Disco to change the bearings and oil pump, but now I don't see how you'd get that last cam bearing that way).




Then I, gasp, coughs, looks left, looks right... honed the cylinders (sleeves/bores). I know, right?! But, I want the new piston rings to seat quickly.




Supposed to be bad weather tomorrow, so it may not be until Friday or Saturday that I get to begin assembling the motor (if the parts arrive, I haven't even ordered them yet).

 

Nice tip!

Also, Summit lists the 53229 for $250, so... in stock and better price than I expected!

 

Installed the expensive new "finished" cam bearings, so the motor is now going back together!


Also cleaned the oil pan and pickup tube. ...and I used a special metal bar tool to verify that the deck of the block and bore of the cam area inside the block were perfectly flat+straight. Passed!

 

Also cleaned and tested all 8 fuel injectors with carb cleaner and a 9 volt battery:







My son is momentarily connecting, then disconnecting, one of the 2 leads from the 9 volt battery to the two terminals on one fuel injector (using alligator clips).

While he is doing the above, I'm spraying carb cleaner into the Input for the fuel rails.

You can just barely make out the fuel spraying out of one fuel injector in the above video.


When the battery is connected, you hear a "click" and fuel sprays out from the injector in a 3-stream or 4-stream pattern if your injector is working and clean.

This also tests for fuel injectors that failed in the Open position, as that sort of failure would spray fuel even when the 9 volt battery is not connected to the injector. Those sorts of failed injectors simply spray fuel...always!

So, if an injector fails in the open position, or if an injector makes no "click" sound or otherwise fails to spray when the 9 volts are applied, then you replace such an injector.




In my case today, all 8 injectors worked fine.

 

I've *got* to clean all of the pistons next, plus replace the rings.

It would be *nice* if I could also disassemble, clean, and reassemble the starter motor (It's always been fine, but hey...here I am, right).


Hopefully the local machine shop has my crankshaft ground/polished Monday.

 

Cool
I'm right behind you.
Disassembled the short block today.
Calling machine shop monday about hot tanking block, letting them hone cylinders, and install cam bearings.
Polish or turn crank also.
Looking forward to seeing your results.

 

Thanks! I'm looking forward to seeing my results, too.

I've got to say that working on this motor out of the Disco is much more fun than getting it out of the Disco.


I used a super long wire brush to rod out the coolant passages of years of scale instead of hot-tanking the whole block.

I also JB Welded (gasp!) the new cam plug exterior even though it was seemingly a tight, perfect fit into the block that wouldn't leak oil out of the back of the motor, anyway.

 

Coolant and visible water jackets literally look brand new in my engine. Previous owner replaced radiator, waterpump, thermostat, ect.
I want to get the block hot tanked to make sure all the oil passages are clear.
I could put in cam bearings and freeze plugs, but I recently found out that a local big name engine machine shop will do what's needed fairly inexpensively.
I might as well get them to do everything to the block.
I'll get prices monday.

 

Grrr... crankshaft still isn't ready from the machine shop.


But, I've begun removing piston rings and cleaning pistons. Here's #2 cleaned next to #4 not yet cleaned, then both cleaned.

 

When you reassemble the engine don't forget to use truck loads of assemble oil, it's better than ordinary oil as it's slightly thicker and gives the engine some lube when starting up. It sticks like the 'proverbial to the blanket'.

https://www.google.fr/search?q=engin...tPSigWItSaR9M: