The brake light flashing is because your brake fluid is low.

Slipped cylinders are typically indicated by loud ticking at idle that goes away at speed, may or may not produce a code or flashing check engine.

Flashing check engine is typically misfire signal indicating too much unburnt fuel to cats. Have you unplugged the MAF and let it idle to see if that changes anything? If not, do that. Still flashing? Plug it back in and unplug both front oxygen sensors. Still flashing? Unplug spark plug wires from the plug one at a time and stick a spare plug in the wire. Get a test lead with alligator clips on both ends, clip one end to the threads on the plug, other end to a ground lug on the engine. Do this and notice which ones make the engine run worse unplugged, which ones don't. Rent the compression test at Oreilly and watch a video on doing a compression test. Report results back.

Too much trouble? I'll buy it from you for $700 if it is rust free in good cosmetic condition, $400 if it is rusty..

 

Check your battery terminals (particularly the negative). Be sure they're nice and tight. Discos HATE low voltage. Assuming you disconnected the battery to do the coil pack relocation, if you're getting an anti-theft code, I'd start there. Also, someone way back asked if you were losing coolant, but I didn't see an answer. If you're not hearing that slipped liner ticking, you're not losing coolant, and the oil doesn't look like chocolate milk, there's nothing catastrophic going on. I'm not saying there's zero chance the motor is toast, it does happen... but if the math doesn't add up, it doesn't add up. Look at the oil, do the coolant pressure test, and if everything looks good at that point, you can get a cheap kit at autozone that checks for combustion gasses in the coolant. If all those really cheap and easy (10-15 minutes) checks come back good, and you don't hear the ticking symptom of liners, It's probably faulty Bosch O2 sensors (use walkers), the MAF you got is crappy, or some other annoying thing. Just a heads up too... the 04's rarely suffered "fallen/dropped" liners. The liners dropping was for the earlier models. in 03 they added a lip at the bottom to prevent "slipping". That being said, at that point, the tooling was pretty shot, so the liners do "slip" sometimes fallowing an overheating incident. IT was probably just a slip (pun intended) in semantics when the shop said "fallen", but if he truly meant "fallen liner", find a new "land rover shop". If you're still reading... on the 03 and 04's, should you develop liner issues, you would almost definitely developed coolant loss or frequent overheating by now due to a cracked block/blown head gasket. If not... don't waste a perfectly good Disco because of a hard to find annoyance.

 

Ok, I have a bit of an update. Today I drove the vehicle to a dealer just to get an appraisal and was confounded by how rough it drove. When I got home I added brake fluid (took care of brake light); and disconnected the Mass Air Flow Sensor. That didn't change anything but the battery light came on and I got a fault indicator for the Mass Air Flow. I confirmed the battery connections are tight. I drove it some more and an idea struck me (this is where you can call me an idiot) what if I didn't get the sparkplug wire back on the correct plugs? Turns out that was the problem. Now the vehicle runs great. The Service Engine Light is still on so I cleared the faults to see if I get something reappearing while driving tomorrow. I will let you know.

 

lolololol Good job!!!
I did this once on one of my chevelles...I was 18 I think. Only did it once. Never again.

 

good luck, lets hope it is as simple as the plug wires.

 

The difference is I'm 58. I guess it's better to learn late than not at all.

 

How is it running?

 

 

Well, it seems to be running great. I did notice that it was only slightly rough, so little so that had I not been going through this ordeal I would not have even noticed. For the first time since December I have no warning lights. I drove it about 10 miles this morning and right before I got home the battery light came on. Even though I have no other warning lights I ran diagnostics and got the following codes: P0150 and P0174. Looking on line I see these might have to do with the front O2 sensors (I recently replaced with new) or low voltage. Is this somehow connected to my battery light? I replaced the battery last year. Could any of the battery/voltage issues be related to my running the relocated ignition wires sloppily?

At least things are looking up. At least if the lights stay off I should pass inspection this September.