how is the noise from those fans ?
Also any loss of power ?

 

@redwhitekat no loss of power that I have noticed, and I do not really notice the noise. Maybe a bit at startup that is it. My tires make more noise

 

I was thinking of the 2991 Hayden, is that what you are running? And then I have seen 620-112 fan blade from a Ford. Is that what you are running?

 

@emille26 yup that combo

- Hayden 2991 Severe Duty Fan Clutch
- Dorman 620-112 Radiator Fan

 

Some thoughts for you:

Do a search for push-button start. Super easy and cheap install that doesn't need the key. Our ignitions wear over time and you'll find you'll have to jiggle the key to get it to turn. Mine was so bad it took over a minute of jiggling to get it to turn.

I have been back and forth between D1 and D2 windshield wipers and find the D2 are better. You wont be able to find refills, but I have purchased new wiper blades in the same size and taken the rubber parts out and put them on the old wipers. If you really want to try the D1 arms, check you local junkyard. I have some if you want to pay for shipping they are yours.

The AC on the D2 is weak...it always has been. Don't think there is something wrong with it. I have a 2013 Infiniti that I swear has a arctic cooler hidden somewhere. It is so freaking cold my hands turn numb. The D2 was never a real cooler. If you know someone else with a D2 go check their AC as a reference.

Most parts for the D2 can be found a junkyards. I've replaced all the lock actuators after getting units from the junkyard and rebuilding with new motors. I am always on the lookout for a D2 in my local yards and I will make the trip and grab parts I dont even need, but know I will.

Good luck,
Jamie

 

Thanks Humroot, I found the wipers and actuators from other forum members selling spares or parting out trucks.

AC is fine enough with the new condenser fan and a refill.

Next on the list is new fan clutch and fan. I have ordered the hayden and dorman fan and am really looking forward to installing it.

On the cooling system since I created this thread. New 180 T-state (its a motorad, not an original, I have heard varying things on their reliability), new condenser fan, cooling flush and refill with the green

One Problem- Overheat at Idle: it has been 90 plus here in philly, and the car wants to idle above 220F, In fact, I am sure if I left it to its own devices it would cook itself alive after about 15 minutes. If I bring the revs up to around 1200, it immediately gets to 205-208. I drove the thing at constant speed on the highway with the AC on, and it was pegged to 208 This leads me to believe the culprit is the fan (which should be replaced in about 2 days). But, I always appreciate hearing from folks on their own experience. I am not loosing coolant.

Also on this list is the PCV valve mod, but that is going to have to wait about a week.

 

Couple things I would look at for the overheating. First I would make sure you have all the air out oftof system. I have never had good luck bleeding the air out the first time. Remove the coolant tank and the cap and hold it higher than the bleed screw. Loosen the bleed screw until coolant comes out. Do it everyday until no air comes out. Second, I would check the thermostat. I don't use motorads because of the failure rate. I probably have a couple floating around that were bad out of the box. If the bleeding doesn't fix it, get a genuine LR 180. If you switched from dexcool to the green stuff, you probably did a flush. Pretty much guarantee you still have air in the system.

220 is too high. With a genuine 180, the highest I've seen is 204, and that's in the heat of NC.

Good luck.

 

As above except you don't actually have to remove and hold up the overflow tank and then make the mess of letting coolant flow out... You can simply open the bleed screw when the engine is stone cold, see if coolant is all the way to the top of the opening, and if not, top it off right through there... A very simple way to displace any air that naturally finds it's way to this high spot.. You may need to repeat this over a few mornings. Always first thing with a stone cold engine.
'

 

Do the inline thermostat mod and you can stop worrying about when and how you bleed it, or whether your thermostat is bad out of the box...

 

Thanks Dave and everyone else.

I am currently continuing to bleed right now, absolutely still have some air in it. When you fill through the bleed screw, do you leave the coolant res cap on?

I have no where to go, so I am going to take is slow and spend the day carefully bleeding.

Next on Cooling: 1. installing new fan and clutch Wednesday. If after I am confident its fully bled I am still getting idle issues, onto the thermostat mod.

Next on the Car This Month: 1. PCV mod this week 2. lock actuators all around this weekend 3. chase a few small exhaust leaks and heat shield CPS. (think I have seen something else on here of some good heat protection with adhesive heat shield

Next on the Car This Year: New headliner install, sun roof drain service, rear sun roof fix, new steering wheel

Last big investment fix I will make on the car: the rear quarter of the frame has some rust. Its not catastrophic yet, but its not great. There is a fab shop in the area I am going to speak with post-covid about getting some welding done. However, I do not want to pull the trigger on that work until I feel better about the engine not imploding

Other Maintenance I forgot to mention: I forgot to include that I have already done the belt, idler pulleys, and belt tensioner

Maintenance Stuff I found Since my First Post: Still need to unravel the mystery of the big service from 40k miles ago, but I have discovered that in addition to a new rad installed in 2014, it got new plugs and wires in 2019 right before I bought it. I suspect the PO had the job done, then got an XYZ switch issue and got quoted like $1000 to fix, hence him selling it.