Did you have seats there previously??

What kind of void is there after the seat removal??

 

Ah ok. Im just taking notes...planning a build like this for my blaze

Im loving it though, you do good work!

 

the passenger side jump seat (which was there before I bought it) was removed by the previous owner as part of our purchase agreement (he dropped the price a bit and removed the 1 jump seat, the ladder, and the spare tire cover, to put them on his other disco) he replaced it with the stock panel from the other truck without a jumpseat. the void in that panel is about 16 inches across and about 5 inches deep, I did the calculation on airspace at about .87 cubic feet but that will fluctuate a little since I decided to do a recessed style sub ring and brought it in a little shallower than I had originally planned, maybe down to .75 cubic feet at the least. I also now have quite a bit less mounting depth than originally planned almost 1.5 inches less. (should be able to fit up to about 6 inches mounting depth).

 

Ok I don't really know a whole lot about sub enclosures. What if I made a box similar to this but covered it with Herculiner (cheap paint on truck bed liner from pep boys)?I all ready did my whole trunk, and I'm going to do the rest of the floors. Will it make the sub sound like crap or have any increased chance of blowing it?

 

the final coat can be anything you want. Most people opt for carpeting because it is the easiest and is pretty much universal, fiberglass done for show will lots of time have a "Piano" gloss finish so that you can see your reflection. I am just going to do a dull (most likely satin) paint to match the factory panel, and then I am going to do a matching speaker grill with a land rover emblem in the middle.

 

Next time I'm in Phoenix I'm going to hunt you down Chris so I can check out your sub box. We may have to negotiate on you building a box to fit a 10" sub in mine. Maybe one for the other side also to keep the truck symmetrical.

 

I hate to say it but working with fiberglass SUCKS!!! sorry for my language but it does. It wasn't so bad when I did it all the time but I stopped doing custom work over 3 years ago, I am not wearing a mask so I have been coughing all weekend and having some weird dreams. I am doing this without the correct tools and am way out of practice (although not making too many big mistakes), The only good thing about this is the memories it is bringing back of when I was 17 building my first set of kick panels (with the wrong tools) in my parents garage!!! and of course the bonding experience with my daughter who is helping with it. If anyone is really interested in doing this themselves my materials will finish around $120 (this includes everything such as fiberglass resin,fiberglass cloth, fiberglass matte,wood,fleece,buckets,brushes,foil,tape,primer , paint, and anything I forgot to mention) and about 30-40 hours including drying time (well drying time I had to wait for).

 

Well I hope the box will be done this weekend. I cut out the fleece over the "hole" and sanded box all over and around the hole. test fit the sub and through it in the truck for air test. air leaks are pretty bad (told you I am out of practice) so I marked with a marker anywhere I felt air spraying out of the box while the sub was playing to do a seal later. I put a bead of silicone caulking where the sub screws down to seal it there, and then coated the entire surface with body filler (pink stuff in pic) to fill in any small holes and to even out any bumpy parts. I then smoothed over (inside and out) all the air leaks I marked before. I will let it dry over night and then test it with the sub for a good seal in the morning. If it is sealed well I will sand it down till most of the body filler is gone (just leave any holes or low spots filled) then spray a first layer of spray paint, hopefully get 2 or 3 done by days end tomorrow. I also noticed the sub was hitting a bit too tight so I bought a bag of poly-fill from Wal-mart (only use about 1/4 the bag if that) this will allow for the air movement behind the sub to be displaced virtually creating more airspace (obviously it wont make more airspace but it will make the sub more efficiently use the available space which will make a big difference)

http://img21.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1004998um0.jpg

 

ok guys a few updates but no pics. I bought the new sub today that will be going in the box I decided to go with an Infinity reference series dual 4 ohm for $100 new. ok so I told you guys I was out of practice well let me list a few of the mistakes I made, directing the sub (this isn't that big of a deal) if you think of the sound of the bass from the sub as a wave ( 50 Hz is about 23') then you need to know which way to direct the sound so that it makes for better listening (bounce the bass around the vehicle andd see about where it will stop). now I made my sub face straight out so the wave just bounces off the drivers side jump seat and goes back to the sub, this isnt a big deal but when I move the box to the back of the back seat (facing the cargo door) it is quite a bit louder in the drivers seat. 2nd mistake I made was since I made a double ring (so that the sub would be recessed) I made the outer ring (the ring that goes around the outside of the lip of the sub) to the specs of my JL, The Infinity is bigger and now I have spent all day sanding that ring so my sub will fit down in (the inner ring is universal and all 12" subs will drop down in it). 3rd problem I had was trimming the extra fleece (not really my fault) every time I have done fiberglass work I had a nail gun that would also shoot staples and used staples to attach the fleece (I could litterally attach it to the very edge of the mold) I had to use hot glue this time and because of the extra fleece that went over the mold (and the more difficult task of trimming it) the finished project does not fit as tight in the panel as I would like it to. I picked up a can of satin spray paint at walmart and got very lucky (it is dead on). so another day of sanding tomorrow, a few more coats of paint and she will be ready to mount in the truck. and if anyone is curious about mounting, I bought some 2" industrial strength fastener (Velcro) this will not only secure the box but it will also dampen the sub box from the panel to prevent vibrations. I will post some pics when it is finished

 

Hello Rover Chris-

I am reading/following your fiberglass sub-woofer build with interest!

I have a 12" Dynaudio Sub-Woofer, dual-voice coil, in a MDF/fiberglass enclosure (2.5 cu.ft. sealed) !

A Denon Head-Unit (built by Denon for Rockford Fosgate). A Zapco Reference650Watt 6 Channel Amp. (long and skinny amp) ! Morel 6"Integra Ovation Mid's, up-front with Morel Tweeters (passive crossovers), and 5" Morel Co-Axial Integra Ovationin the rear (above the 12" Dynaudio Sub-Woofer - enclosure) . I needed to use a "Mean Green" Alternator (300 amp out-put). And I use 2 Odyssey Gel batteries.

I used to do a few installs"...back in the day!" But, those days are long-gone! If I ever sell my truck, I'm going to remove the Zapco Amp. ! I really like that amp...

I'll be watching/reading more about your progress...!

Donald