The AB and Rovers North ones posted above are both for vehicles without the advanced evap loss system. Here's the RN version of the pump: Rovers North - The Source for Classic Land Rover Parts - DISCOVERY FUEL TANK PUMP AND SENDER
Quite a bit more expensive, but it's compatible with the advanced evap system.

 

Ah. Is this pump drastically different from the regular version. They don't seem structurally different judging from the picture.

That is, changing to the $99.99 pump instead of the $399.99 pump will this disco I run assuming no other problem?

 

Not only is that pump $399.99 proline is all chinese crap that is a hassle. Why not buy used?! I mean it will get you buy because all the people on here that sell parts sell them with a guaranteed warranty. I got one for $80 from Pual Grant for my DII.

 

I'm open to anything. How do private individuals on this board guarantee warranty? Or know if they are indeed selling an advanced evaporation pump that my Disco I possibly absolutely needs instead of a regular evap pump?

I take it that I should post on the 'wanted' forum or contact Paul Grant?

 

All the proline stuff I've seen has had country of origin stickers, and most are UK built.

(not that it's better than chinese)

 

As long as the transfer case is in neutral, you dont have to worry about anything. You will have to mind the turns and braking for sure, drive like its snowing out and youll be fine. Use engine braking, be light on the gas, and use lack of throttle early to anticipate having to slow or stop, especially on hills, let the tranny and engine take the grunt before applying the brakes. And be mindfull that unless the trailer has brakes, keep the load stright before braking or shell tend to want to torque and push your rear end around. The axles/diffs just sit in an oil bath, there is no active lube system for car on/off the lube action in the axles is the same, no extra wear/tear there, same goes for the drive axle ujoints, they are sealed systems so it also doesnt matter if they are on or off. The transmission would be the onyl issue, but once the transfer case is in neutral it is physically disconnected from the tranny which will remain still no matter what the tcase and wheel speed.

another option is to do as much of the work yourself, then if you get stuck or to a point where you cant go any further, then tow it to a small garage and just ask for help, they might only charge you for the hour or so it takes to hook it all up if youve altready done most of the work. just stay away from non private garages like sears, firestone, pepboys and dealerships, they probably wont even look at it, but any small gastation garage will usually be willing to finish small jobs for a few hundred to cover the labor... if only to gain a new customer! plus rovers are rathe easy to work on reguardless, study diy and ask on the forum and there are plenty of peopel thatll be willing to chime in if you get stuck! even a small gas applicance or lawnmower mechanic could probably do the fuel pump with ease after getting familiar with what needs to be done with rave!

 

Because the people on here that sell parts do it for there main source of income and if your a un happy customer and you tell all of us. Then suddenly we all say forget ...... he screwed over my friend .... I'm just going of my experience that if you have a problem with a part, they are always happy to exchange it. Thats it.

^That maybe. I've bought a water pump from them a few years back and the propeller was a cheap grade plastic. The pump lasted 5,000 miles. Before the plastic propeller destroyed itself. Once again, just my experience.

 

Scares me a bit...I just replaced my water pump with a proline version. The propellor seemed to be a nice metal, though you can never really tell. I can't imagine using cheap plastic for something that important.