Hey Guys,
Anybody know if there is a problem with cutting off the factory trailer wiring plug and splicing in a regular 4-way flat connector? I'm trying to avoid plunking down $200.00 plus for the factory setup. 2000 Disco II by the way.
Thanks in advance,
Bob

 

Splice away ;-)

 

No offense, but not quite the technical answer I was looking for.

 

Wrong, do not cut into the plug that is inside the r/r quarter panel, you'll never work your way out of it. You must use a convertor that can be bought from Atlantic British or Rover Connection for qround $100. Witout this you will not have the power necessary to power any lights on the trailor.

 

Thanks Mike. Can I not buy an aftermarket converter?

 

Why does mine work fine then? Spliced in that exact location without any issues? Weird.

 

Has anyone tried a "valley" powered converter on a disco 2 ?? From reading their info,it seems the converter uses a seperate power wire to provide power for lights. The origional rover wires just supply trigger signal to the converter. 3 models up to 15 amps. Priced from 30.00 to 55.00 depending on model. Might be a better option than the cheepy converters,and less$$$$ than rover oe.

 

www.atlanticbritish.com for your flat four trailer connector. It has the convertor and is a plug and play set up, I bought one and would not do it any other way.
It takes about 10 minutes to install. It is a aftermarket kit. The one from the dealer is way overpriced.

 

you do not need a rover specific connector but having one will make it easier to wire. Right now I'm using and old flat 4 connector I found laying around the garage. I crimped on male connectors to the flat 4 wires so they would fit into the rover female plug without damaging it. Now since rovers use amber turn signals you will have to solder in diodes if you want brake lights.

 

Here's a $12.49 taillight converter:

http://www.agrisupply.com/trailer-li.../ss/converter/

This will combine your amber turn lights with your brake lights as the signal travels to the trailer lights (combined turn and brake light). This kit scotch-locks onto the factory wiring behind the factory harness trailer plug (behind right brake light on DII). Converter is integrated into flat four connector (I use this converter, no problems with it).

Note: if you are using above average amperage draw (added running lights, brake controller, etc.) you need to run a converter with a dedicated power supply and fuse (wired direct to battery) like was mentioned above.