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Tranfer Case Gasket/Sealer

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  #1  
Old 10-26-2013, 09:07 PM
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Default Tranfer Case Gasket/Sealer

I bought a cdl transfer case for my 2002 disco, and was re doing all the sealants and gasket before i install it. I ordered a gasket kit but on some of the covers the rave manual calls for, STC 4600 which is hylomar 3400, does anyone one know of any permatex comparable.

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Old 10-27-2013, 07:47 AM
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Many have used RTV.
 
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:34 PM
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"Many have used RTV." As have I, until after repeated use, I learned, the hard way, that it wouldn't seal worth a d.... What I found it doing, after assembly using RTV, disassembly, and inspection, that the RTV wasn't sealing well at all, but most of it was being pushed out both sides of joint, from pressure of bolts. That is when I began using hylomar, with excellent results due to its being more tacky, much more able to stick to surfaces and not be pushed out while bolting up joining surfaces. Later, I learned that aviation cement, available at any auto parts house in t his country, does the same. My experience, after years of use, if you want it to leak again, use what most people use, ATV, but if you want it to be sealed well, forever, use Aviation cement.
 
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by earlyrover
"Many have used RTV." As have I, until after repeated use, I learned, the hard way, that it wouldn't seal worth a d.... What I found it doing, after assembly using RTV, disassembly, and inspection, that the RTV wasn't sealing well at all, but most of it was being pushed out both sides of joint, from pressure of bolts. That is when I began using hylomar, with excellent results due to its being more tacky, much more able to stick to surfaces and not be pushed out while bolting up joining surfaces. Later, I learned that aviation cement, available at any auto parts house in t his country, does the same. My experience, after years of use, if you want it to leak again, use what most people use, ATV, but if you want it to be sealed well, forever, use Aviation cement.
Ya I am just starting to learn this the hard way. I resealed my tcase about a month ago but it leaks like crazy. Much worse than BEFORE I sealed it. I used a high temp RTV, but like you mentioned, it just kind of comes out the sides and doesn't really seal well. I was about to take it all apart and just try it again thinking I messed it up the first time, but I'm very glad for your post and the recommendation. I think I will give your method a try and hope that it seals better.
 
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:34 PM
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http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...sealant-detail

Permatex® PermaShield™ Fuel Resistant Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant

In the upper right corner it says "compares to hylomar"
 
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Old 10-28-2013, 04:36 PM
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Hi

An essential tip I learned in using high temperature RTV. Apply the RTV to spotlessly clean surfaces only (clean them with cellulose paint thinners or brake/clutch cleaning fluid first and ensure they are dry) apply the RTV and WAIT 10 minutes before placing the plate or mating part. DO NOT screw up tight but leave a gap about .015-020" for another 10 minutes for the RTV to partially cure. Then tighten the screws or bolts in an opposing sequence finally using a torque wrench setting. Allow the RTV to cure completely for a couple of hours before refilling with oil or using the component. If done properly according to the RTV instructions the joint never leaks again. If you bolt up solid too quickly the RTV squeezes out internally and externally and never forms a gasket which it designed to do. Never refill with oil until the RTV has cured properly otherwise you may be wasting all of your time and effort.
 
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Old 10-28-2013, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
Hi

An essential tip I learned in using high temperature RTV. Apply the RTV to spotlessly clean surfaces only (clean them with cellulose paint thinners or brake/clutch cleaning fluid first and ensure they are dry) apply the RTV and WAIT 10 minutes before placing the plate or mating part. DO NOT screw up tight but leave a gap about .015-020" for another 10 minutes for the RTV to partially cure. Then tighten the screws or bolts in an opposing sequence finally using a torque wrench setting. Allow the RTV to cure completely for a couple of hours before refilling with oil or using the component. If done properly according to the RTV instructions the joint never leaks again. If you bolt up solid too quickly the RTV squeezes out internally and externally and never forms a gasket which it designed to do. Never refill with oil until the RTV has cured properly otherwise you may be wasting all of your time and effort.
Yup. Should have just done it right the first time. Well good tips to know for next time. And at least I KNOW my t-case oil is fresh
 
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Old 10-29-2013, 03:50 PM
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"An essential tip I learned in using high temperature RTV. Apply the RTV to spotlessly clean surfaces only (clean them with cellulose paint thinners or /clutch fluid first and ensure they are dry) apply the RTV and WAIT 10 minutes before placing the plate or mating part. DO NOT screw up tight but leave a gap about .015-020" for another 10 minutes for the RTV to partially cure. Then tighten the screws or bolts in an opposing sequence finally using a torque wrench setting. Allow the RTV to cure completely for a couple of hours before refilling with oil or using the component. If done properly according to the RTV instructions the joint never leaks again. If you bolt up solid too quickly the RTV squeezes out internally and externally and never forms a gasket which it designed to do. Never refill with oil until the RTV has cured properly otherwise you may be wasting all of your time and effort."

Yes, tell me about it, for I have been there; done that too, after learning what I indicated above, the hard way. However, I found that using this method with RTV, though it works to some degree, it doesn't work nearly as well as simply using hylomar or Aviation cement to begin with, period! Now, I overlooked mentioning above that you should never ever expect same results when trying to get some gasket sealant to form or make a gasket for you, compared to USING a gasket with gasket sealant over it on both sides, as there are no comparisons, If you want a joint sealed well, use a gasket of proper thickness, covered with Aviation cement or hylomar, on both sides. Continue to use your RTV junk, if you want the joint to leak---that is my experience, after many years of experimenting, learning from errors, and trying to find other things that work, such as Aviation cement. Unlike the majority, I never ever use RTV, for I have learned that it simply doesn't compare with what is obviously better.
 

Last edited by earlyrover; 10-29-2013 at 03:53 PM.
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:06 PM
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So its seems nobody online sells hylomar 3400 online, other than in europe. I called land rover dealer today and spoke with the parts manager, and he told me back in the disco days and today they use permatex right stuff black. He said that is what land rover sent them as a cross reference. So im still not sure. What is any thoughts on "rightstuff". Or should i try to get the hylomar. I dont want this think leaking once i put it in.

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Last edited by lmcgrew79; 10-29-2013 at 07:11 PM.
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:18 PM
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Im gonna go out on a limb and say that since the hylomar 3400 is an Anaerobic Gasket Maker the permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker would be the correct choice. I might add it cost $14.49 for 1.69 oz at advanced auto parts. Pretty pricey so its probably correct.
 

Last edited by lmcgrew79; 10-29-2013 at 07:21 PM.


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