Hello and Thank you for pointing me to the " Stickies".........

And it was right there for me to see. As you can see this is only my second post. I read the previous three stickies but not the 4th..... my bad.

 

I was at work sorry for late response, cannot work on this auto till saturday will call the dealer tomorrow.

Disco Mike -- thanks for the response I have used a lot of your posts to guide my changes. Thank You!

--> I did not replace the front drive shaft. I was reading about this. I also did not clean the idle body when I did the Sea Foam treatment.

I know how to check the fluid levels I will top off tonight...

I will most likely pay a trans mechanic 100$ it costs to remove the broken bolt (what luck....) and follow the guidance about the transmission [no bits I could buy such as craftsman with self middle levelers got it out perhaps because I have never done this but I give up], and buy the trans pan holder which is on a corner from dealer -- I have it on the auto now but it is snapped and barely grabs. I hope this fixes the leak.

 

ahh man you give up too easy. You can get that bolt out yourself in 15 minutes.


keep us posted on the progress.
________
BMW H2R HISTORY

 

On a positive note, I checked the fluid levels today and it is full. I think the leak must be when reversing, but when I get bolt out I can put the holder back in place.

I may try it....I would like to know how -- but, a craftsman bit designed for it failed. And, I want it done correctly... so time will tell.

 

Like I said those bits and it's ilk are very hard and not very tough (britle) so they break easily. Add to that the fact they are made in china of dubious metallurgy, suffice to say I have got very low success with easy outs.

 

Put the small bit ways up in the drill, so only a small section is sticking out, then tighten the bit. Not bulletproof but harder to break that way.
________
BLACK DICK

 

Craftsman bit did not break, I followed directions -- just did not work!

I am paying mech I found 50 to 75 to remove. Trusted mechanic.

 

Just changed spark plug wires. First time ever changing, and first time ever changing pressed against a firewell. Also used the posts for direction on this website's forums. Thanks!.

 

I know he is no longer here but this is the best thread that comes up in the search so i'll post here.

Having the same issues, just mostly with 1-2 and 2-3 under strain (say 40%). Just started last night out of the blue. No issues when shifting with no load.

When i did the service i likely left it a little more full than specified (3mm bead of oil, are you serious LR? Thats your cool way to measure it.. meh) but i dont think its related. This is the first time the rover has been operated in cold weather for long periods of time. Not sure if related or if its something entirely different.

also hauling quite a bit of gear so it just might be normal with load. Just never had that happen to this vehicle before. Could never tell it was shifting before. Now you can feel said shudder. It is not a jerk or pull, or lurch. A shudder. very distinctive.

Will see how it goes..

 

You can delay the eventual tranny rebuild with these "premium snake oil" products which I have used in the past when it was not the right time for a tranny repair. Before everyone of the pure blood no additives in my truck crowd jumps on, these products do work, just not forever. A lot of vehicles get this treatment to push them through the auction or used car sales process. A DIY can use this and start filling that fruit jar to save up for the real repair. My favorite indy tranny shop is next door to the auto auction, they keep a case of the Shudder Fix by the front door.


Lucas:
Lucas Transmission Fix : Lucas Oil

Shudder Fix:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...Bm72L7zM_rvxKA