99 disco II
Well after suspecting a bad T-case, and It was, and then finding out after installing a replacement I still had Zero movement I am replacing the Tranny. Oh what fun to do it multiple times...... So have the tranny out and notice a couple of vacant holes above the mounting position to the R and L. (see pic 2) any clue what these are? The P.O. did put in a used engine prior to my buying it.
Also picked up a new main rear seal so what comes off next to get at it? ( pic 1)
Don't really see any signs of oil leakage but who knows?
Also when examining the replacement used tranny from a local J Yard I Noticed that the Torque converter was filled with oil and the old torque converter filled with tranny fluid. Maybe the last Rover that it ( the new used one) was in Did have a bad Rear Main seal and oil leaked into the Converter?
I still have no clue after pulling it all apart what went wrong to begin with. The only Diff I see just looking at both tranny's is the one from my Rover has play in the output tail shaft and the new ( used) one does not.
Hopefully something just went bad inside the old tranny. I want to use the Torque Converter that came with the used tranny as who knows if this was my issue but what do you think of having oil in it?

All input , comments welcomed!

 

Bueno Mucho Trabajo!
First those vacant holes are for the engine lift brackets on the back of the head. Some sloppy work (obviously) leaving them out by the previous operative.
Next, to change out the rear main seal and "T" seals you will need to drop the engine pan/sump to expose the rear main bearing cap. Then unscrew the bolts torqued up to 75Lbf Ft; then you can draw it down and expose the main bearing journal by removing the side girdle allen bolts @ 35lbf ft ; so crank sensor and starter have to come out!
Now remove the crank flex plate seen in your picture and then the allen bolted crank flange adapter to allow the seal to slide off the crankshaft sealing flange. Remember to mark the order of dis-assembly because the shim washers/spacers are of a different thickness and by mixing them up you will have poor assembly bad torque converter engagement on the pump and no drive! Out it will have to come AGAIN!

So beware and of course be mindful that the engine when it was fitted might have had the shim combo mixed up which is /was the source of why you are tearing it a part right NOW.
(Back to my sloppy fitting comment)

If you are fitting a new rear seal buy one from the dealer as its been upgraded yet again! The T seals are much the same as always. Makes sure it is all clean and use a blob of sliicon sealant on the cap face at the back so that when it is tightened down a small amount oozes out to ensure a seal. If the seal flange is tram lined use a "speedy sleeve" to recover the crankshaft surface as a tram line will will tear up you new seal.

The torque converter residual fluid description is of concern.
Normally it should ATF qualities and being black suggests neglect or the wrong fluid has been used or there is a problem in the making from that junk yard tranny you have sourced.
Obviously the torque converter fluid feed is supplied by the pump inside the transmission front cover driven by the tongues of the torque converter. this unit must be fully "bottomed in the transmission bell housing upon insertion to the engine. Failure to achieve this vital proceedure can lead to front pump damage and no drive will result.
As a guide once the transmission is snugged up to the engine ther shou8ld be about an 1/8th of n inch clearance between the torque converter bosses and the flex plate. You should be able to tiurn the torque converter easily with fingers through the round access hole in the flywheel housing.
Hope that helps.
T/V

 

Thank you for all this great info! How do you go about "bottoming" the bell housing into the torque converter?
Thanks again!

 

Are you asking how do you know torque converter is fully installed?

 

And for what its worth, I've found it much easier to install the torque converter bolts with the oil pan dropped. I've done it both ways, but when working along I'd rather have the oil pan down and not work through the block access holes.

 

The torque converter needs to be bottomed onto the shafting BEFORE offer up.
The reason is that you are aligning the input shaft into the turbine housed in the converter case and into a pilot bearing/bush at the nose end again inside the torque converter. Then you have to align the two rectangular pegs on the sleeve section of the torque converter into two mating slots in the oil pump hidden and just visible in the front pump housing.

Usually its easy sliding the torque onto the shafting but getting the pegs to align and drop into the pump can be a chore .

The easiest way if you don't do this task very often is to mark the oil pump slots relative to the case with a marker. The do the same with the male pegs on the converter body then tip the transmission on end and slide the torque converter down so that the pegs align with your marks. If it makes life easier put some torque converter bolts into it mount lugs and use them as handles to wiggle and rotate the torque converter about. When it all aligns it will drop with a resounding "thud" and be almost touching the bell housing. Then its bottomed an ready for install.
Obviously don't let it slide out and make sure it rotates freely after snugging the transmission to the engine.
T/V

 

Yea I figured out what you where saying after looking everything over after your post. I realized it was a 3 banger line-up and figured we would just have to wiggle it in. I took a ruler and figured-out where the pegs were by visualizing a clock and then did the same on the converter. I got extremely close a few times and then with a tap on the flywheel and a re-wiggle I was able to hear the metal "pop" as it slid in and Bottomed out. If you had not said that I would have thought I had it twice before as it was very close together. I had NO space left after it mounted so was convinced 100% I had it!
This was the first time I've done a tranny in any vehicle although I've rebuilt top-ends and have done most all other repairs. Just got to tidy all up all the loose ends tom. and fill everything back up and will post. I found the biggest PITA to be the T-case and the tranny lines. I had a heck of a time getting in the top-side line and ended up jacking the whole assembly back up , took out the tranny mounts , lowered and used my arm up and around the tranny to line the damn thing up. All in all I Didn't find this job too technical but a big PITA for laborious grunt-work and a major MESS.................. If it doesn't work it's going off the Cliff
Thanks again for all the great Advice!

 

Well guess it will have to stick around for awhile ( I hope) as it actually works! Had my share of "tests" along the way like the rear drive shaft falling out of the grease fitting when I flipped it around ( the last piece of the puzzle of course) and then it timely it ran out of gas when I was just about to put it in Drive to see if it would move and etc , etc..........not a job I will do again. The good news is at least the used t-case and tranny seem to both be working fine but I only went around the block a few times...... No lights, no grunts or groans .......well at least NOT from the Rover