No don't cut it like I said he was confused and must of thought you were talking about something else. They make tools for those but you have to know what kind of quick connect it is. I can search over on Dweb give me a few minutes.

 

Here are some quotes from dweb:

"Push the collar into the fitting and you can pull the tube out. I bought a fancy tool and found there wasn't clearance."

"Mine was really sort of a bitch, but you have to push the whole line in towards the cooler, while pushing the quick disconnect collar in the opposite direction. Then slide the whole thing (pushing your hands together) away from the cooler.

It helped me to twist the thing back and forth as I was pulling the line off.

It's like a quick disconnect air line, if you ever had any experience with that.

I know that sounds a bit confusing but...

It also may help to put a rag over it to get a better grip.

I think your going to have to pull the whole radiator (or at least disconnect the upper mountings and rock it back far enough) to get it out though.

The RAVE CD has a pretty good write up on this if you can get a hold of one.

Peace"

 

when I replace radiators in my D2 I remove the air box to allow better access, and I only remove the drivers side cooler lines. I have done the replacements with only removing the tranny cooler but its easier to pull the oil cooler as well (oil on top, tranny is the bottom one).

Anyhow I clean the area as best I can, grab the engine side of the line in my right and push foward sliding hose as far as I can (1/16"-1/4") , then hold the length of the hose in place and using my left hand and a few right fingers slide the plastic collar back toward the engine side of the line. Now a flathead screwdriver (carefully) will help to push the bottom of the collar toward the engine, this is usally the hang up. you will have to hold very firm or it will pop back. once you feel the collar will not go any further towad the line push lightly foward (to the bumper) on the hose and pull the collar back hard toward the engine hold your toung on the left and cuss like crazy. It should pop right off after 3 or 4 tries! sound crazy but if I start out in front of the car to pull/ push the collar into place, the rotate around to the side to actually pull off the hose it seams to work the best. ( don't ask ) Removing the screw that holds the pass side tranny cooler tab, will give you some wiggle room, but then the cooler is not held in place so I'm not sure if it really helps that much.

what you have in the collar is 4 small bent pieces of metal or tabs that hold the line on, you must smash these down in order to pull them over a lip on the pipe of the cooler. they smash when you push it toward the line, but have spring in them that will want to push it away from the line.

I mention the tabs have spring because I leaned the hard way that after a while they loose their spring and the tranny cooler line will pop off once the fluid is hot and under pressure. You will not get up to pressure in the garage the tranny has to be in use driving for 5 or 10 minutes. I bent a very small electronics flathead into a hook and "pull" them back into shape and restore a little of the "spring". so far they have held out. you should feel and here a click when you reconnect using the same method of pushing the collar back and sliding the connection together before lettin go the collar. The collar and tabs must pass the lip before you let go!!

Also someone mention on a LR forum that an O ring goes here, it does NOT and should not have one on the drivers side tranny cooler maybe on the pass I don't know because I have not removed that side.
Hope this helps


NOTE:
If you don't put all you pocket change in your right hand pocket none of the above will work!

 

these may help but I did't have the correct size, they are fuel/ AC line disconnects.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0044&ppt=C0052


http://www.cartools.com/Merchant2/me...tegory_Code=MA

 

Okay, so novice mechanic got this rather detailed job done with nothing but determination and the help of the folks here. Thanks to everyone who weighed in.

Ultimately, the best/simplest description was: "you have to push the whole line in towards the cooler, while pushing the quick disconnect collar in the opposite direction. Then slide the whole thing (pushing your hands together) away from the cooler."

It IS like a quick disconnect air line. IF they want to come off.

I only managed to get the top, driver's side line off. NONE of the other release rings would budge, at all. The lower cooler hoses were pretty corroded and offered no movement at all.

So I ultimately left 3 out of the 4 oiler cooler lines intact, unbolted the oil coolers from the radiator housing and lifted the radiator up and around the coolers. After I got the top driver's side cooler line off, I twisted that up and out of the way. So that was the upper cooler out of the way. Then I just had to get the radiator off the lower cooler. That was a matter, with the passenger side of the cooler unscrewed from the radiator, of holding onto the radiator and forcing the cooler towards the passenger side. There's a simple R-shaped type hook on the driver's side of the cooler that just slots into the radiator frame. If you take a look at your new radiator, you'll see what I mean. It's a little bit of a bugger to get the oil cooler detached from the radiator with the oil cooler's pipe still wrapped closely around the radiator frame, but just keep working it towards the passenger side and it'll come free. If you can free it from the passenger side of the oil cooler, you can angle the radiator towards the engine to get a little more leverage on the detaching the driver's side of the cooler.

From there it's pretty easy breezy.

There's a LOT of steps in this job, but no individual step is particularly difficult outside of the issue with the oil cooler release rings. I'm pretty much a complete dunce with vehicles, and I did it. So have hope if you're a novice. The manual says it takes 3 hours. Amateurs should probably plan on 5-6, with extra time for tinkering, flipping through the manual, standing back to scratch your head, and cursing. Have lots of beers handy. It helps.

Thanks again to everyone who pitched in with advice.

I took the car out for a 10 mile test drive, and no overheating thus far. After replacing two head gaskets, the water pump, the thermostat, the reservoir cap and checking all the hoses, hopefully this is it! Really, there's not much else in the cooling system that it could be, as far as I can gather.

 

Well there is always the heater core

 

Ugh. Don't even ....

 

Sooooo ... after replacing the radiator, re-filling with coolant and bleeding air through the upper hose bleed valve, I've been driving the vehicle around for a few days. The temperature gauge has stayed normal after 45-60 minutes of driving.

But ... when I get the vehicle home, there's clearly audible pinging coming from the engine. Honestly, I can't remember what frequency and volume of engine pinging is normal after driving for an hour, but my gut tells me the pings are louder and more frequent than they should be.

The coolant lines are also still pretty hard. When squeezing them, hardly any give at all. So there's obviously still a lot of pressure in the line. When I release the reservoir cap while the engine's still hot, I have to do it slowly, one burst at a time, to stop it boiling over. Even then, after releasing, sealing, releasing sealing, there was still some coolant that boiled up out of the reservoir.

Is any of this normal?? Or do I STILL have a problem somewhere in the system?

As I've said in other posts, I've replaced the water pump, the thermostat, the reservoir cap, and now the radiator. The radiator was replaced after having a radiator shop take a look at it and tell me it was blocked. They also dye-tested the system and found no evidence of any leaks (so head gaskets should be good).

How else could I test the system to make sure I'm not going to burn out the engine when driving it any further? That is, to test my hunch that there's still a overheating problem. Certainly, the instruments aren't currently telling me that, but then ... they often weren't telling me that before, when there WAS an overheating problem. The gauges would basically only tell me when the **** had already hit the fan.

Is there any way of testing the heater core? (short of replacing it and seeing if that improves things, which I really, really don't want to do).

With the radiator replacement, I really thought I was done with this ****.

Thanks.

Dan

 

Do you know what temps you are running at? That would be step 1.

 

No idea. How do I tell?