So you are thinking do another flush and get a new t stat?

 

Try a non-contact laser thermometer. $20 bucks. Point it at stuff... hoses, radiator, tstat (top and bottom). You might learn something. That's how I figured out my genuine 180 stat was bad from factory.

 

Yea but no flush,
just another t stat

 

update

Checked the bleed valve this morning after a night of the raised tank bleed procedure. There was some minor pressure still in the system and it looks like I can add some more coolant into the bleed valve. Going to suck out some coolant from overflow tank and put it into the bleed valve to top it off. I don't want to add additional coolant to the system as it should have plenty...

Will do another bring the engine up to temp test later today and cross my fingers that Tricky Dick repaired himself last night. If not..

Thanks, might have to make a run to Harbor Freight and see if they have one

Roger that

 

update to my update

With the bleed screw open, I started to remove the overflow cap. Pressure started to release and coolant came a bubbling out of my bleeder screw.

To me...this would confirm what Luckyjayb is saying and I have a bad t stat.

Going to order a new one and see how that goes, now the perplexing question....

1. Do I go with the 180 or do I got with "normal"

Tricky Dick does like to run between 200 to 210 F at normal operation, which doesn't bother me, but just wondering.

 

If the coolant comes "bubbling" out of the bleeder screw, then you still have air in the system. It should just steadily seep out, like a spring in the ground

I run a 180 and get temps around 200-210. Others run it, and get sub 200 temps. Seems like a crapshoot. As long as you are under 215 - ideally under 210 (thats when the AC fan kicks on) you're totally fine.

 

When I opened the bleeder screw there was a slight hiss and the coolant level was about halfway up the hose.

Then I started to unscrew the lid on the overflow tank and started getting another hiss, as the hiss increased the coolant level at the bleeder screw raised and started spouting out of the bleeder screw. I tightened the lid on the overflow tank and the spouting at the bleeder screw stopped.

My thoughts...since the bleeder screw is above the T stat and the over flow tank is below the T stat, the T stat must be stuck closed and causing pressure to build on one side of the system.

Or am I nuts?

I am sure I have some amount of air in the system as I still hear a slight waterfall in the cabin but, I don't think that would account for the pressure below the T stat

I will go with the Lucky8 OEM, went with the AB OEM last time.

 

I run the 180 factory in mine but I'm in central Alabama. If you order from lucky8, you get free shipping with them on eBay

 

here is the eBay link https://www.ebay.com/itm/291273816738

 

Ive even heard of people using this one and you can choose and swap out the thermostat itself like the inline mod
https://www.ebay.com/itm/172591782979