Yeah, I've had the ball bearing clanging around in the gaiter on previous cv brakes and not as vibrating, click n clanky as this

 

Before I tore it apart it would make hey throw out, clank noise upon every revolution of the tire. Like something was letting go.
So I can either swap the tcase at this point or put in my original diff. I don't know how else to find the issue

 

Just a guess of course , but I would suspect the diff more than the transfer case.if you dropped the rear shaft why would it effect the tc? Now runnlng with just a locked frontend I could see effecting the diff possibly

 

Looks tidy in the photo. No apparent broken teeth and tooth contact pattern appears good. How do the bearings feel and is there any overly longitudinal backlash on the gears/thrust?

 

TT looks good with no damage. Can't see any obvious issues there.

 

I tend to agree with drowssap, the front diff is a more likely suspect and checking the ads I ask the question "why do the sell so many pinion bearings"? bit of a give away! Check the diff backlash insitu for a guesstimate, ideal diff backlash is .002 to .007 measured at the crownwheel, FKW it would be at the shaft flange but I guess on the pinion flange no more that 1/16" on the turn of the flange I guess.

If the CV is clapped it usually makes a hell of a din if the ***** are free to jump the cage. To test the CV turn the road wheel full lock in one direction and spin up the road wheel and then in the other direction on full lock and spin the wheel again. Do it both sides and compare the noises. If you've got a stethoscope put it on the upright whilst spinning the wheels and if the CV is cr@p the rumbling will speak for itself ........... you'll go deaf ...........

 

Holy stupid monkey head!!!!!
So after my last post I begin to retrace my steps and realized that the only other thing involved in a click and drop it in the revolution of the tire outside the differential would have to either be axles for driveshaft because it wouldn't likely be in revolution with the tire in the transfer case.
So to recap, I have both axles out have a true track apart I have the site plate off the transfer case all to find this issue. The first thing I did to get to this point was remove the front driveshaft. I had visibly inspected and physically manipulated the driveshaft several times to make sure there was no issue there. This is an HD driveshaft it has less than 10,000 miles on it and I have greased it probably 20 times since I've owned it. I grease it every time I change the oil. I grease it every time I go wheeling and every time I get back. I am vigilant about greasing the centering ball as well. I have two cases of locknuts from Fastenal to make it convenient. I've gotten quite good at it I can drop the front of the shaft have it greased and back up before my oil finished draining.

So now I have torn the gaiters off of my Cvs, cleaned all the grease out to inspect. No problems there. I have the crossmember sideplate and exhaust Y pipe off in preparation to drop the tcase. I move my axles out-of-the-way picked up my driveshaft to inspect it one last time before I crawl under for removal. I thought well even though it all seems well I will go ahead and pop off the U joint to get a better look at the centering ball
There's a little something missing from these pictures.

 

And where's the spring?
Still has grease

 

Hiya monkey head yep where's the spring? Résultats Google Recherche d'images correspondant à http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/attachments/f24/11788-99-f250sd-7-3-2wd-drive-shaft-vs-4wd-drive-shaft-142-wb-rear-ds.jpg either it's disintegrated or they never fitted one.

 

Sadly, I suspect the latter.
still had grease in it, from my pre-trip lube job

I feel like I just played a horrible prank on myself
Oh well, you live and learn.

By the way I will not point fingers at the company that produced that driveshaft as I do not know for certain why there is no spring. I will say that it's not a Tom Woods and it's not a GBR so........