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Tuff-Rok Rear Pod Tail Lights & Bumper Lights Installation
Hello everyone,
I purchased the Tuff-Rok pod LED Tail lights and Rear Bumber Pods and I have yet to install them mostly because some of the products the guys offer do not come with instructions. Now I wouldn't mind just plugging it in and testing it out however, I fear electrical issues as one of the plug connectors included is cracked in half. It seems that it would still be functional and they promise a new one however, due to the color coding of wires between NAS and Non-NAS I want to ensure that what I am doing is correct and maybe learn a thing or two about the wiring of the tail lights via the wiring diagram. Another thing that I might of goofed up and have no been able to verify is that I ordered a set of Amber/Red Rear Bumper Pod lights that were advertised as functional up to 02' and unfortunately I have a 04'. I am hoping that is only specification difference is the bumpers, which would be great because I have a stainless steel bumper that I think I could make it work with the attachment points.
Here is what the rear tail lights currently have wired too them.
The red pod (Brake Pod?) has white,black, and red wires that terminate to quick connect push spade connectors. 1 for black alone, and 1 for red alone, and the white is one of three wires spliced together to a "tee" quick connect spade with a 12V 50W 6 OhmJ electrical (resistor/diode/something) in line with the other side of the device connected to a blue wire with the same "tee" connection has that connects to the yellow pod via the blue wire.
The yellow pod (Indicator Pod? has blue and white wires that terminate to a quick connect push spade connectors. The white wire is the 2nd of three wires spliced together to the aforementioned "tee" quick connect spade with a 12V 50W OhmJ electrical device in line with the other side of the device connected to the blue wire that with the aforementioned blue "tee" connection point connecting to the yellow pod.
The white pod (Reverse Pod?) has red and white wires that terminate to a quick connect push spade connectors. The white wire is the 3rd of the three wires spliced together to the aformetioned "tee" quick connect spade with a 12V 50W OhmJ electrical device inline with the other side of the device connecting the blue wire to the yellow pod.
The plug that came with it includes a female plug that connect to the header wires that are currently plugged into the stock lights contain 4 quick connect spade connections, and contain the white, brown, green, and red wires.
The Rear Bumper Lights have three wires that will be inserted into the female connector pin. They are a single wire that is red/slate, a single wire that is black (Earth?), and a green wire.
What I am hoping to do is be able to trace the wiring diagram to ensure the proper connectivity of these by understanding the circuit system. IE. A comprehesive understanding of the close loop circuitry. I would like to do this because it appears I have some funky colors here and I want to learn as much as I can so I can teach others and speak the lingo. I am limited on time whilst I write this but I will be back with snippets of the wiring diagram to accomodate.
See below for enormous pictures taken with an iPhone. Rear Tail Light RH Wires Rear Tail Light RH Wires Rear Bumper Light Rear Bumper Light w/ Red&Slate Gray, Green, & Black Wire.
I don't have any advice, other than to say how frustrating it is that Tuff-Rok makes such cool products but absolutely refuses to create any documentation.
Yeah so I went to check it out and low and behold the plug does not match up at all. Not really sure what happened here but I contacted Phil. He has been chill about it, and has plugs remade already to ship I hope.
Had the same issues with the rear lights. The plug they come with are incorrect so the lights don’t work properly. I went as far as splicing In the lights to get them to function properly. Never fully got the right one working fully. Ended up not caring for the look, wanted them to look like they could be mistaken for new from manufacturer. I’m sure if you have some expertise in body work they could be trimmed, fitted and painted to look much better but that’s beyond my scope. Phil from the Company is extremely helpful and responsive. If you haven’t checked out their clear side marker led lights they look great, are easy to install.
Had the same issues with the rear lights. The plug they come with are incorrect so the lights don’t work properly. I went as far as splicing In the lights to get them to function properly. Never fully got the right one working fully. Ended up not caring for the look, wanted them to look like they could be mistaken for new from manufacturer. I’m sure if you have some expertise in body work they could be trimmed, fitted and painted to look much better but that’s beyond my scope. Phil from the Company is extremely helpful and responsive. If you haven’t checked out their clear side marker led lights they look great, are easy to install.
Here is a pic of the wiring that worked.
I don’t even have that configuration. I have a 2004 as well but I only got taillights.
So I was able to get a function set of Taillights and bumper lights working for my D2. I was able to get the appropriate plug sent over. However, I was not able to get the reverse light function to work. I didn’t put to much stock into it as shortly after I got it operating about a couple months ago, my block starting pouring coolant. It remained in out of commission until the weather was suitable for diagnosing. Thankfully my loving lady right before it crapped out picked up a 99 D1. I draw the line for car repair at 32 degrees F. I had to do all four wheel bearings and brakes in Wisconsin Winter... I was not going to troubleshoot a severe coolant leak. Thankfully, I actually completed a water pump repair on it yesterday!
but back to the lights, so I was initially thinking about getting the proper plugs, wiring, and diagrams to adequately understand how to get multiple plugs routed up for different lighting options. At the least, I think if you want to wire up the reverse lights to be function you have to tap into the bumper lights. After doing some research I have found that getting functional indicator lights on the bumper is a challenge. Yeah this lights are dope but if you want to get them fully functional it requires some electrical knowledge, wiring diagram, wire, plugs, adequate forum research, and patience.
They are readily available for the lamp guards.... what’s the point of having having an off-roader with no brush gaurds?
sticking with the 03-04 lights means you have condensation because they didn’t understand water properties when designing.
98-02 D2 lights require a simple plug change. I’m going with the older D2 lights.... if I have the time and patience I’ll wire up the tuffroks and use them for taking the lady out to the local downtown bar on fancy occasion. But that’s about it.
Since it’s a holiday tomorrow in England (I don’t know much about the Church of England other than it’s big money grip vs the Catholic Church or Macy’s) I won’t be able to discuss my problems with Mr. Beales until Tuesday, I’ll elaborate more on what I got going on. Somewhere in storage I have a New York City sized Land Rover repair manual that should explain how come my truck starts trippin over pulling the Passinger side Tailight out of the harness. Not that the driver side is functioning properly either but it does blink all three outer circles quickly, as the resistor isn’t at work in proper position but it does blink the brake lights. In this photo the wires aren’t the same and I didn’t get grommets installed at the base of each LED cluster. If I pull the Passinger side off (NAS) I don’t get the same situation with it connected. The high mount brake light starts flashing with the hazard flasher, which I’ve never experienced one to hyper flash in the hazard position. Never had a disc rotor on a driveshaft for a parking brake either, but the 2004 discovery has different everything. Ok, so it seems that you can’t wire one up without the other because if I install the tuff rok lamp on the Passinger side the Drivers goes out when the running lights are on. This is nuts. As for fitment the physical part is fine you just need a pick or something to lift up so you can drive the screw into the nylon. The pod will work and stretch out. Also I have a Java Black truck so it’s a perfect color match even though there’s 4 of that mix if you need a rattle can mixed or a sprayer kit.
So I was able to get a function set of Taillights and bumper lights working for my D2. I was able to get the appropriate plug sent over. However, I was not able to get the reverse light function to work. I didn’t put to much stock into it as shortly after I got it operating about a couple months ago, my block starting pouring coolant. It remained in out of commission until the weather was suitable for diagnosing. Thankfully my loving lady right before it crapped out picked up a 99 D1. I draw the line for car repair at 32 degrees F. I had to do all four wheel bearings and brakes in Wisconsin Winter... I was not going to troubleshoot a severe coolant leak. Thankfully, I actually completed a water pump repair on it yesterday!
but back to the lights, so I was initially thinking about getting the proper plugs, wiring, and diagrams to adequately understand how to get multiple plugs routed up for different lighting options. At the least, I think if you want to wire up the reverse lights to be function you have to tap into the bumper lights. After doing some research I have found that getting functional indicator lights on the bumper is a challenge. Yeah this lights are dope but if you want to get them fully functional it requires some electrical knowledge, wiring diagram, wire, plugs, adequate forum research, and patience.
They are readily available for the lamp guards.... what’s the point of having having an off-roader with no brush gaurds?
sticking with the 03-04 lights means you have condensation because they didn’t understand water properties when designing.
98-02 D2 lights require a simple plug change. I’m going with the older D2 lights.... if I have the time and patience I’ll wire up the tuffroks and use them for taking the lady out to the local downtown bar on fancy occasion. But that’s about it.
Well I’ll be damned. I live within earshot of the beltline dude. I draw the line at 50° because it’s too much and no garage. And yeah looking dope means goodbye to the rear Tailight covers. I just yesterday poured a cup or so out of the turn signal. They also put the sunroof drain hose right there by the plugs for the bulbs. If we can find 2 more Rover Disco people we can roll up on the east town mall on Friday night like a squad. That’s where the car culture seems to like it, I have a 25 year old turbo Volvo 850 too, another demanding mistress. I also have dual exhaust in the works with a single inlet dual outlet flowmaster and left and right X-loop muffelers. Buds on Monroe will tackle the pipes. I have to diagnose a misfire and change the diverted valve under the ABS unit. Crazy talking to someone in Madison that isn’t in Middleton leasing whatever his wife will let him. I remember when these were in pairs at Woodman’s east and west. Was 11 or so years ago but still. And I think it looks beyond dope, once the slider back windows get in and on it’ll be like all new truck. I’m sticking with the factory rear bumper, those pods should be a cinch to wire up for 2004 as you know they’re rear fog and reverse lights so, seems easy. The taillights are nuts, and so is the radio. I drove down to Chicago to get a black door for the driver door someone backed into and I have all the parts needed for power folding mirrors, since I have to change the wiring loom out in both doors I’m going to install the unpurchased 3 way component speaker set up on the factory stereo where the amp is under my seat. I also have 3rd row seating to install. The funkiest issue I’ve had with the truck is the mechanical fan clutch. I had Wright’s garage change it to get the fan clutch to let loose. Now the oil light comes on at idle and I’ve read 3 different people have the sensor leak through the spade for wiring. So that’s a $10 job I can do. I’ve considered pulling the engine and sending it to Mark at D&D in Michigan where he pits slip proof piston liners in with a bigger camshaft advertising 30% more power. I’ll in all likelihood go with a 3 core solid aluminum radiator if I go that way but I’ve only got 96K on the odometer. And no slipped liner either.
how did you test the tuff rok Tailight? I thought black would have been ground. LED high mount brake light was just 2 wires when I started down this road. Front bumper fog lights are next after the rear bumper tuff rok Led Pods, which are after these taillights.
Tuff-Rok Rear Pod Tail Lights & Bumper Lights Installation
