Twitchy Steering
All D2's have a slack adjustment on the steering box, super easy to adjust. Have a look in the RAVE manual here: https://extinctmotorsports.com/extin...-manuals-rave/
If it were me - and it's not, it's you - I wouldn't move on without doing this. You could have multiple issues. One issue could mask a solution on another. Diagnose, THEN replace parts.
ball joints are last thing I'm looking at due to the pain they are to replace and unlikely case they are the culprit. Torn boots on them mean almost nothing on these cars.
How big of a lift did you do? 3" and higher without correction is definitely noticeable and without sway bars extra so.
How big of a lift did you do? 3" and higher without correction is definitely noticeable and without sway bars extra so.
ball joints are last thing I'm looking at due to the pain they are to replace and unlikely case they are the culprit. Torn boots on them mean almost nothing on these cars.
How big of a lift did you do? 3" and higher without correction is definitely noticeable and without sway bars extra so.
How big of a lift did you do? 3" and higher without correction is definitely noticeable and without sway bars extra so.
Figure the clunking could def be a ball joint situation though right?
I'd say more likely to be tie rod ends, panhard bushings or a hub than ball joints. Have to jack it up and start pushing/pulling on things to see what makes a noise. Not impossible for it to be ball joints obviously.
I’m with Extinct. The adjuster is shown here. You can find the procedures in the Rave too as he said. Assuming you are 3” or under, I doubt castor is an issue.

The adjustment is one of those “feel” type adjustments with VERY minimal adjustments making a big difference. You won’t want it too tight as it will wear out the worm gear, but too loose makes it hard to find on center while driving. You loosen the lock nut and then use an Allen wrench to adjust- just make sure when you tighten the lock nut not to change the adjustment you just made.
Another thing to think about that I don’t think I saw if you replaced are the ball joints. If you are getting death wobble (currently addressing in my Jeep as they are notorious for it) that will point to them. A bit of a bear for some to replace (I’ve never done them) but that could be a place to look as well. Maybe even the hubs.

The adjustment is one of those “feel” type adjustments with VERY minimal adjustments making a big difference. You won’t want it too tight as it will wear out the worm gear, but too loose makes it hard to find on center while driving. You loosen the lock nut and then use an Allen wrench to adjust- just make sure when you tighten the lock nut not to change the adjustment you just made.
Another thing to think about that I don’t think I saw if you replaced are the ball joints. If you are getting death wobble (currently addressing in my Jeep as they are notorious for it) that will point to them. A bit of a bear for some to replace (I’ve never done them) but that could be a place to look as well. Maybe even the hubs.
Tie rod ends and panhard are all new, could be hubs but I jacked it up and checked all the wheels and there wasn't play on any of them.
It's my first time doing this... Where do I insert the centralizing bolt? I found on another post that its an M8/125 bolt? Also, per the rave manual it says to break the taper joint and remove the drag link. Is this really necessary just to make the adjustment?


