Hey guys, I have been working through some starting issues for the last week and am still fighting this thing. I want to give huge props to SavannahBuzz, DiscoMike and everyone else who has given me a ton of advice to get me this far. Thanks everybody!

So, this is where I am at. My 01' D2 100k will start and run beautifully when totally cold, or when she has just been running for a while. (Turn off, then immediately turn back on).

In between this time frame though, she has a lot of trouble starting. It usually takes a couple minutes of cranking to start up, sometimes, but not always, after turning the key on for 3 seconds, then off X3 to activate the fuel pump. When she doesn't start though, I still get what I would consider good fuel pressure (sprays out when pressing on the nipple of the fuel pressure testing valve).

She has died three time while driving, had to coast to the side of the road and then has trouble starting back up again, sometimes restarts after a few minutes, sometimes has to cool for a while ( 5 hrs+) then starts.

I just replaced wires and plugs last week.

When she wouldn't start last night, I tried the Dr. Mordo's advice of switching the wiper relay with the fuel relay to see if it was a faulty fuel relay. I just tried this once for a few cranks and she didn't start.

Also, the CEL is on when cranking and doens't start and then turns off when she turns over. I have an ultragauge on the way and will be reading the codes soon.
OK end of issue #1 on to #2-

Last week, two days after I changed the plugs, my truck when into limp mode suddenly with the flashing M and S lights and Drive indicator. I assumed it was becuase I hadn't put the positive lead of the battery well enough. I cleaned the terminals and connected them very snugly and everything was fine for the last five days.

Then, today on my drive out this morning, I had a three really big clunks from the transmission (like really hard shifts that affected the rpm's) and then went back into limp mode and the rpm's died again like they had when associated with issue #1 above.

What do you think? XYZ switch for issue #2? Crank shaft position sensor for issue #1?

Any assistance or ideas would be helpful!

 

Definitely sounds like the CPS for #1 - I had identical symptoms.

 

Nice, I was hoping for that. Do you remember where you got yours? AtlanticBritish has a "BOSCH Crankshaft Sensor" BOSCH Crankshaft Sensor For Your Rover

Is that the same thing...?

 

One test of CKP is hook up a spare spare plug and lay on mainfold. No spark is usually CKP, pour cold water on CKP to reset it sooner (block does not need to cool off).

 

Mine stalled going into the parking lot of an O'reilly's Auto parts store of all places. They actually had them in stock, I think it was $63. Check your local stores, it's a common part.

 

Great, thanks guys. I will give my local O'Reilly's a shout. Any ideas about #2...? Could they be related...?

 

Transmission may have clunked as the engine lost power for a sec - then kicked back in.

Or the battery may be simply shot and you have a low voltage condition which affects your electronics.

How old is your battery?

Take a crap shoot and go to Walmart and get a new battery $110.

 

That is kinda what it felt like... I'm hoping solving my first issue will resolve the second...

Thanks JFall and guys! I love the help. I'm getting a new Crank Shaft Sensor tomorrow and will put er' in and will check back.

BTW: O'Reilly's had the part I needed for $239!!!
CarQuest had it for $63!!!
Wow! Glad I shopped around.