Thanks Joe, you are right. I need to resolve those issues. Still cold here and I just found out that I'm running on an average around 208.6 after I purchased the UG. Summer? I'm sure I go over 215 all the time. I had this truck for 13yrs and never had cooling problems but its getting older. At first, I thought that UG wont do much until today when it went up a degree every minute. I got an oil cooler from Abran a week ago and I'll visit Rover Master Tech if he will install it.

 

You are very welcome. If you have not done so already, at least get you that OEM 180 thermostat, My temps were too high for me and that helped considerably. I even went further this last weekend and installed the inline thermostat and now my temps are a steady 180-185. I installed my oil cooler I got off Ebay a couple of months ago and it was pretty straight forward, since everything is already prepped for it. The only thing that raised my blood pressure was hooking up the line to the hole right above the oil filter, it is at a slight angle and it was getting dark and almost crossed threaded because I was going straight in instead of at the slight angle. Don't expect to see lower coolant temps, but keeping cooler oil to your bearings, cylinder walls, cam bearings and valves, make for a happier engine.

 

I missed alot here today but if I can quickly throw in on the gauges I got electric ones but the mechanical ones are both elegant and cheaper and I now wish I'd gotten those. My 1983 mercedes diesel pipes oil into the dash gauge and has never leaked so they should be pretty safe. The modern mechanical ones will come with nylon tubing for oil and water and I don't trust that, but copper line kits are cheap and plentiful to add to that setup. Also, if you go with nylon, consider placing a larger hose over it to prevent chafing and a 90 degree elbow at the firewall to prevent stress and breakage. I think some of the kits come with the elbow.

I have an oil cooler (stock) on my truck because land rover didn't care so much about startup emissions when mine was built (no Sai either) so the big plugs are gone and replaced with cooler lines and fittings. Glowshift has an adapter plate for 30 bucks that sits between the timing cover and oil filter that has all of the necessary connections, and still leaves room for a humongous mann oil filter so the dummy light can stay in place. They also have a coolant hose fitting for the inline thermostat mod (found elsewhere in the forums) that has a smaller fitting for a coolant sensor. I can't remember what I paid for that. My total for all of the gauges and sandwich and pod was 272 dollars shipped. Eek. More than a UG for sure. I got the Maxtow gauges because my baby gets the best (on the Glowshift site anyway)!

To the poster who was saved by the UG today, congratulations! That thing surely paid for itself today many times over. Your UG is not only free but by saving you head gaskets or worse has freed up even more money for mods and projects. I've been waiting out some air bubbles from my swap and watching my scanner coolant temp like a hawk for a couple of days... The UG or gauges would be much better for my driving safety than holding a scanner.

 

Joemamma1954, I believe I have found the fuse for the interior lighting for the extra gauges. It appears to be fuse F27 in the interior fuse box. It is a ten amp fuse. I plan to tap into this fuse for all three bulbs for the gauges. Let me know what you think.

I will report back tomorrow as I plan to at least complete the battery voltage meter and gauge lighting tomorrow.

 

In my experience the Add-A-Circuit adapters work very well.

 

X2 on add-a-circuits

 

The add a circuit is more than adequate, for switched or un-switched power. I was talking about tapping into the dash light wire that is on the plug that is connecting to the gauge cluster itself and running that wire to your new gauges light wire. This will turn the lamps on when your lights are on. If you want the lamps on the gauges on at all times, fine, just go with the add-a-circuit fuse.
to get power from the dimmer switch.
There is a red/brown wire that goes into the instrument panel thru one of the two plugs that plug into the panel. It comes from the dimmer switch and goes to the lights, if you tap into this wire, you will have gauges dimmed with the panel.

 

Very nice.

 

Your way sounds better. I'll do that today.

 

That's pure genius.