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Urgent - overheated on side of road

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  #11  
Old 07-23-2014 | 02:35 PM
jamestfl's Avatar
Winching
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From: South Flatistan
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that'll do for a flush. but- after that, flush with 2-3 gals of distilled water. just plug a funnel in there and let 'er rip. after that, close the hoses back up and do the fill from the overflow bottle with the plastic T-housing screw removed and overflow elevated. lots of write-ups here on the exact procedure. bottle raised. and burp it. may take several times before all the air is expelled. keep at it.
 
  #12  
Old 07-23-2014 | 05:03 PM
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Three Wheeling
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From: manhasset; long island, ny
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Thanx James, I was actually looking for those procedures but had trouble finding them.

So I have to dismount the overflow tank, then raise it up? Whys that?
 
  #13  
Old 07-23-2014 | 05:17 PM
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Three Wheeling
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From: manhasset; long island, ny
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Also, forgot to ask: I found a replacement thermostat (just the thermo, not the plastic casing) for about $10, 180 or 195 degrees. Should I replace the thermo too?
 
  #14  
Old 07-23-2014 | 07:21 PM
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Three Wheeling
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From: manhasset; long island, ny
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Jared this is a huge help, thanks for taking he time to walk me through it. As a newbie who is tackling these jobs as they pop up, I have to say I wouldn't be able to do this without you guys. The forum literally saved my a$$ when I overhêated.

Thanks everyone.
 
  #15  
Old 07-24-2014 | 06:00 AM
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From: Boston Strong
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do not try and use the block drains
 
  #16  
Old 07-24-2014 | 08:33 AM
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Baja
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From: Boston Strong
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if i remember correctly the drains are a 3/8"npt plug with the old 4 sided head,
that has been screwed into the water jacket for better than 10-years.
if you can get them out more power to you.
 

Last edited by drowssap; 07-24-2014 at 08:35 AM.
  #17  
Old 07-24-2014 | 09:01 AM
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Winching
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From: South Flatistan
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meh, too much trouble with the drain plugs. IMHO, go with 2-3 gal's of distilled water into the top most hoses (the thru-the-firewall ones) and yeah, why not undo the lower hose for a drain. only thing I would add on the bleed procedure- keep an eye on the fluid level in the overflow bottle and keep an eye on the engine temps as you do it. repeat as necessary. oh! and check that all fittings are tight b/f starting- they inevitable get a little loose over time with the expanding and contracting of the hoses. mine are all 8mm/philips head.
 
  #18  
Old 07-24-2014 | 09:41 AM
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From: Seattle, Wa
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Engine temps should be irrelevant in the bleed procedure.

I'm pretty sure it should be bled with a stone cold engine. Once you think you've got it, then turn it on and run for a while, if you still have gurgling under the dash wait till it is stone cold again... even if its the next morning... and repeat.
 
  #19  
Old 07-25-2014 | 08:34 AM
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Winching
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From: South Flatistan
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yeah Dave, thanks for the clarification. stone cold engine first thing in the morning is best. the watching the temp gauge I was talking about is once he starts filling and running the engine. if there's bad/low/no circulation keeping an eye on the temp gauge will be critical.
 
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