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In an attempt to stop my oil leak from the back of my engine (I don’t think it’s the main seal as it’s somewhat free of oil in the inspection area of bell housing) I replaced the sump gasket probably poorly I might add. I smeared the caulked areas wrestling the pan into place. I noticed the gasket I got from Atlantic British was a bit loose almost like it was too big for the locating holes. My oil leak worsened after my awful mounting. Soooo now I’ve taken another crack at it. I have some red high tack to seat the gasket better and I’ve made more room for a clean mounting of the pan. My question is this new gasket looks like the old one as is seems a bit large. Is this normal or are the producing defective gaskets? This was also from AB but I think it’s a different brand Uro parts. Anyone just ditch the gasket and go with straight RTV? I really don’t want to do this all over again. Any experience would be much appreciated.
Also the Crucifix seals seem to be a bit recessed in the holes. Normal? Or were they trimmed wrong on install. It’s a Turner engineering engine I would assume they did the assembly.
Looks fine. Put a thick coat of black silicone on both sides of the gasket. Put it on and tighten the bolts finger tight, you want the goop just touching the aluminum stuff. Let it sit 24 hrs, then snug it down.
Looks fine. Put a thick coat of black silicone on both sides of the gasket. Put it on and tighten qthe bolts finger tight, you want the goop just touching the aluminum stuff. Let it sit 24 hrs, then snug it down.
Thanks Extinct. I went and ordered an OEM gasket to see if it lays better than the aftermarket one. It is so “oversized” that it humps significantly if I try to line up the bolt holes.
Me, l put a light bead around entire gasket surface, so excess doesn't overflow into oil pan area, block and oil pan sides, around each bolt opening and end results look cleaner/more professional. Apply a bit more in areas where the rear main seals are recessed and where front cover meets block.
Me, l put a light bead around entire gasket surface, so excess doesn't overflow into oil pan area, block and oil pan sides, around each bolt opening and end results look cleaner/more professional. Apply a bit more in areas where the rear main seals are recessed and where front cover meets block.
Deputy,
do you forgo the rubber gasket with these sealants or use both the sealant and gaskets?
Me, l put a light bead around entire gasket surface, so excess doesn't overflow into oil pan area, block and oil pan sides, around each bolt opening and end results look cleaner/more professional. Apply a bit more in areas where the rear main seals are recessed and where front cover meets block.
+1 on this advice, thin layer. You need the gasket. Check the RAVE as deputy mentioned, you need a good dab sealant where he described. The most common issue for leaks is not torquing the both properly in the proper sequence and not following the RTV directions, see the two types mentioned above.
+1 on this advice, thin layer. You need the gasket. Check the RAVE as deputy mentioned, you need a good dab sealant where he described. The most common issue for leaks is not torquing the both properly in the proper sequence and not following the RTV directions, see the two types mentioned above.
has anyone had the issue of the gasket not laying flat and humping up between the locating nubs? I can’t see how this rubber would lay flat and seal well
do you forgo the rubber gasket with these sealants or use both the sealant and gaskets?
Use gasket, apply both sides, small beads, it will conform/flatten out if you tighten bolts in proper sequence. Usually, you start in the center on each side, snugging them up, lightly, until all are of equal value/torque, then wait, tighten a bit more, then wait, if using gray, or finish tighten sequence if using black, as mentioned, use sealant a little more liberally at locations previously mentioned, rear main and front cover to block. Do not over tighten bolts.
Use gasket, apply both sides, small beads, it will conform/flatten out if you tighten bolts in proper sequence. Usually, you start in the center on each side, snugging them up, lightly, until all are of equal value/torque, then wait, tighten a bit more, then wait, if using gray, or finish tighten sequence if using black, as mentioned, use sealant a little more liberally at locations previously mentioned, rear main and front cover to block. Do not over tighten bolts.
Use this new gasket or not
