I know this question probably asked many times. I have not found a good answer yet.

would any of you use additional Gasket materials (Silicon, Permatex copper, Black silicon etc) ?

I am tired of Valve cover gasket leaks. no amount of tightening helps. So I am doing this all over again .


would you use any additional materials on Upper intake Plenums gasket? Like Spray copper?


I have two on hand now (pic). I have used the copper stuff on the Cover and letting is dry overnight. I am planning on using the Permatex Ultra Black on the other side or the Copper spray?

any suggestions? or bad experiences?

Thanks

 

I used them 2 months ago when I did my Head Gasket. 2.5k no leak yet. The copper I used for the head gasket and the black for the valve cover.

 

i was planning on using the Copper on Upper intake Plenums and Black on the Valve cover.
I don' t want any more leak.

Thanks

 

I used the cooper on the plenums too and the valley gasket. I saw some post not to use them since it will be tough to remove. I'll deal with it when the time comes. So far not leaking yet.

 

I thought I dropped some tips on your other post but I was mistaken. The cylinder heads-perfectly clean and dry, all around the inside and outside edge at least 1/4-inch down, all around. Finish off with rubbing alcohol dabbed in a cloth before you install the VC. The night before I put the VC on the engine, I got them clean inside & out, then washed the gaskets with soap and water, dry completely & finally wipe entirely with cloth dabbed in rubbing alcohol. Take the copper spray (shake the hell out of it then spray in the air or something scrapped until the copper can be seen) and hit the inside corners and 1-inch blob right in the middle of the VCs where the gasket sits (easy on the copper; we are only using enough to hold gasket in place, not actually glue it to the parts) Let your copper dry for a minute then put your gasket on, seating it properly then face it down on the hardwood floor to set overnight. The gasket may or may not come off of the cover whilst maneuvering it into place but it's OK if it does as you are extending the same effort either way. You just hope the copper aids you, but you aren't depending on it.
Next day when you put them on the cylinders, like I said before, clean cyl per spec above then wiped with alcohol and set the VC down using blue Loctite on the bolts which must either be brand new or the originals cleaned to brand new appearance (none of the old sealant remaining in threads) Wipe with alcohol then your Loctite application to threads. Don't forget to tighten in 2-3 stages at least 15 min in between. I did the 2-stages then hit them another 1/4 turn the following day. You don't use any black RTV or sealants other then the copper; that stuff will come off inside the cylinder and block the oil passage. The gasket won't let motor oil by. You only get leaks when the gasket is distorted, the covers come loose via the bolts losing torque, or the gasket hardens and loses pliability. You have to make absolutely sure that the lip of your VC gasket sits outside all the way around. Even when you get it on the cyls, you have to run your finger along the outer edge and see that it's seated properly, especially by the firewall where you have no visual. If that gasket doesn't seat properly, you never have a chance and it's easy to F-up. Take your time putting them on. If it's all clean, the gasket stays seated, and you get the bolts to do their job, you will win.

 

Thanks Joe. I know you mentioned this other day. If you see the pic above That is exactly what i am a doing except I went step further to clamp just so there is no uneven areas.

2 questions

1. You are saying don't use the copper on the other side. Just the Rubber Gasket and Loctile, right?

2. Would you use any Copper sealant on the Upper intake Plenums? I have not used it in the past and and the intake came out clean.


Thanks

 

I used the tack spray on the gaskets for the manifold(upper) and the loctite 5900 on the valley gasket. I also used the tack spay on the valve cover gaskets and valve covers and a little bit of the loctite 5900 on the gasket (the ridges) to help it seal to the valve cover and I ordered new 12 point valve cover bolts with the oring on them. My outlook on the valve covers is that you can't over tighten them since the metal spacers won't let you and I do the criss cross pattern when tightening and used the blue loctite 243 to help keep them from backing out. That's just me though. I figured they will leak at some point and I'll do it all over again I guess. I do like the tack spray for the gaskets. Helps out a bit. The only reason I used the loctite 5900 instead of the permetex right stuff BC I found it about the same price on eBay and I'm a loctite fan per say.

 

If you want less chance of them leaking again it may be worth your while to purchase a cheap HF 1/4 drive in. lb. torque wrench which can be used on other LR fasteners as well. Many leaks are the result of uneven/over torque.
......

 

I have got tools I maintain 3 BMW's. BMWs are king of Torque because of all the aluminum.

I read somewhere torque two stages after one hour. the problem with that how do you use Loctile?

 

The blue Loctite, in my experience allows the bolts to be handled at a later time. I have used the blue on VC bolts a couple of times in the past and had no issue with torquing in stages. Now, the red Loctite hardens so that is a different animal.

As for your earlier question about copper/sealants on the cylinder side of gasket, that side I left completely dry. The copper is just to hold the gasket in place on the cover but it doesn't work most of the time as there is some finagling with it on the Rover. The main thing is just getting that gasket seated properly between the head and the cover; the lip can get squished underneath and you are screwed if you aren't looking for it.

I really like how you clamped that cover to the table; way better than my sitting it on the floor! Have you put the covers on yet? I have always done that manifold gasket dry, but I'm either going to double them up this time, or use copper on the upper manifold side/ dry on the lower manifold side. The face of my upper plenum is not perfectly flat and I'm concerned that it's not sealing completely. But that's just my situation. Would love to have dropped that off with my other parts at the cylinder shop but in my haste, I forgot to inquire about it.