Originally Posted by number9

If you want less chance of them leaking again it may be worth your while to purchase a cheap HF 1/4 drive in. lb. torque wrench which can be used on other LR fasteners as well. Many leaks are the result of uneven/over torque.
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Originally Posted by chubbs878

The blue Loctite, in my experience allows the bolts to be handled at a later time. I have used the blue on VC bolts a couple of times in the past and had no issue with torquing in stages. Now, the red Loctite hardens so that is a different animal.

As for your earlier question about copper/sealants on the cylinder side of gasket, that side I left completely dry. The copper is just to hold the gasket in place on the cover but it doesn't work most of the time as there is some finagling with it on the Rover. The main thing is just getting that gasket seated properly between the head and the cover; the lip can get squished underneath and you are screwed if you aren't looking for it.

I really like how you clamped that cover to the table; way better than my sitting it on the floor! Have you put the covers on yet? I have always done that manifold gasket dry, but I'm either going to double them up this time, or use copper on the upper manifold side/ dry on the lower manifold side. The face of my upper plenum is not perfectly flat and I'm concerned that it's not sealing completely. But that's just my situation. Would love to have dropped that off with my other parts at the cylinder shop but in my haste, I forgot to inquire about it.

Originally Posted by chubbs878

Spec calls for 2 stages, but the next day when I go back to the bolts, there is no torque on them so I have learned to torque them again the following day. Maybe this is why so many owners have problems with them. Hell, maybe it's because I broke the Loctite bond on the 2nd torquing stage, I really do not know. But with that being said, maybe more investigation should be done to prevent future issues with loosening valve covers. I saw a Loctite Green (unsure of its application) on the shelf yesterday. It all comes down to using a thread sealant/adhesive that allows torquing in stages to compress that thick A$$ gasket.

Originally Posted by number9

If you want less chance of them leaking again it may be worth your while to purchase a cheap HF 1/4 drive in. lb. torque wrench which can be used on other LR fasteners as well. Many leaks are the result of uneven/over torque.
......

Originally Posted by Chrisw7562

Has anyone used lock washers on the valve cover bolts and then torqued them to spec? Possibly using Loctite blue as well?

Mine are leaking now and I'd like to do the job once and have them stay tight & dry!

Originally Posted by chubbs878

replace your VC bolts with the O-ringed design that Lucky there has and you should be leak free for a few years until the replacement gaskets begin to harden again.

Originally Posted by sayeedA

I have not yet. The cold shrinks the Gasket that's why I could not do it yesterday. Planning on putting them on today re-torque hour later just so the Locktile does not dry up. will attempt tomorrow again.

I am going to follow your advice on not using on the Head side. If the sealant sticks good then next time cleaning is going to be a bitch. covers are easy to clean as they are out.

By the way how do you clean the upper Intake? Break cleaner? I have been using paint thinner with a rag works like miracle.

Thanks Man