Thanks for the info cappedup. I drove it home tonight to make sure it doesn't overheat. I work at a GM dealership and I think we have a generic scanner I will try that and see if I can get live data. Since it's dark I looked under the hood with the engine running, I see lots of little arcs- bad plug wires. That explains the misifres. They look like a pain where they connect to the coil in the back of the engine though. I found some new plug wires and other parts in one of the cubbies in the back!

I mostly ride vintage dirt bikes- Bultaco Alpina and Sherpa T, Yamaha TY175, Honda CT90. Always a project going on in my garage!

 

Yup. Wires are a pain. But sounds like that's the misfire.

Really, temps, codes and coolant and it's not looking like such a bad idea.

Others may chime in with more specific things.

Good luck.

 

99 disco 2 bought with 126,200 just hit 132,400. Had it over a year. I have done heads, water pump, front cover, replaced the tee hose, coil, steering pump, abs option b, battery, and more. I am out about $5500 between rig and parts. Did most of the work myself. At a grand I would certainly bite. First get a code reader, I have the Icarsoft930 and love it. Also an ultra guage is a must. Visit these forums and do the maintenance. Don't get frustrated and have patience.

 

Where is it located, I might be interested if you decide to pass.

 

Well I decided to take a chance- it's just too cool to pass up. Ordered a new windshield and used back glass. I have made a list and I'm sure it will get longer.

New items added:

The radio switches on the steering wheel are whacked, you have to hold them with slight pressure then the controls on the radio itself will work.

RF door window regulator is all bent up, discovered this after trying to open the window- it wouldn't go all the way up again. Took the door panel off and it was obvious. I have seen replacement ones on ebay for $40, are they any good?

Heated seat doesn't work- light comes on but feel no heat. I'm guessing the element is part of the seat cover. We have this probem all the time on the GM cars where I work. Anything easy to check first?

Looking forward to a new project. This is a great forum with lots of great info. Thanks to all for the advice.

 

I may bang on about this point, but you should order an ultragauge, see what's actually going on inside that bonnet (hood) of yours.

If it's running too hot, you need to know. If it's throwing random codes. You need to know.

Good buy. Welcome to the forum.

 

The seat heater element is probably broken, but check the fuses under the seat first. If they are all good then the element is the issue. The element is glued to the foam under the seat squab. I've seen them online for about $60... you should only need the lower one. I've fixed mine twice but now it is time to replace. Sure is nice when it works.

X2 on a live data UBDII reader. You'll want to know temps and then buy the 180 degree OEM stat.

Then of course the front propshaft.

 

As mentioned by Mr. Triumph: DO NOT TRUST THE GUAGE. You need an OBDII guage reader to tell if you are hot. When the needle moves barely above half, you are over heating. If it gets 3/4, your gaskets are probably shot....or will be.


You could be killing your engine now without knowing it. This is why the $80 ultraguage is so popular, it tells you real temps and you can leave it in the car.


My recommended list, and do this before mods:


1-Ultraguage.
2-There is enough gunk on your photos to warrant a coolant overhaul:
-New Hoses
-New Thermostat (go with the genuine TD-5 180-degree stat. It's $50. Don't skimp
-new radiator (unless you are comfortable that one is new)
-new throttle body coolant plate/gaskets
-new overflow bottle and radiator cap
-new fan clutch.

This will protect you from future headgasket killing temps for the next 100k miles or so. Should set you back roughly $5-600 depending on deals and stuff.

3-Front Drive Shaft. It NEEDS to be serviceable (grease-able) because the cats dry out the grease in the sealed units and Kaboom! It takes the front of the tranny with it. Don't forget the Lincoln needle point greaser to grease the centering ball also. It's easy to do, and do it every 3-5k miles or so.

4-Check your rear rotoflex for spider cracking. Easy to replace now and use your existing as a spare. If there is no cracking, don't bother.

5-Gear oil. You'll need it for the T-case and the diffs. Spider gears are rumored to crack (mine have been fine, including Moab work), but you could have water in your oil at this point. Best to change it. While your at it, do the tranny too. It's easy! The diff, T-case, and transmission all have fill/drain plugs so it's NOT a messy affair at all. So easy, you should just do it.

6-Engine Oil/Filter. Get a heavy duty large filter. Bosch extended mileage are available at Walmart. I have an in with NAPA so I use the Gold-line. They look to be similar. Stock unit is much smaller. Also get the proper oil. Most new owners put in the modern synthetic stuff. 5w30 or even 0w20.......which is the wrong viscosity for most climates. Lots of stuff out there....best bet is 5w40 Rotella or equivalent. It's the best temp range but a bit more pricey.

7-Download the RAVE. It's Land Rover's official maintenance manual...for free! And you also get specs and stuff (like an expanded oil chart). No reason not to have it.

8-Enjoy!!! You are right, half the fun is working on them. Do the above, and all you will have is ****les rather than major stuff. Put it off and you could have expensive repairs!

9-Offroad until you slip a sleeve. Had to throw that in there. Just remember, your rovering days may be numbered as soon as that sleeve drops for no reason. .

 

Well I stopped by the auto parts store today and they hooked up their scanner and engine temp is right at 180 degress so that sounds good. I found an empty thermostat box in the back and it is a genuine part. So hopefully that has been upgraded to the cooler thermostat. I also found a receipt for front driveshaft replacement- it was about $900 (ouch!). Found out a little more history as well when I bought it. It was a father and son that traded it in for a newer Cadillac CTS coupe and they came a long ways from North Dakota to southern Minnesota where I am. So I feel a little better knowing it made about a 400 mile trip.

I snagged a used back glass for $95 and new non-heated windshield for $149 from one of our suppliers. Picked up a set of wires today and am going to try to tackle them this weekend. They are Intermotor brand and seem good- the wires are numbered even.

I will run through the checklists everyone has suggested. Thanks.

 

Unlike some vehicles, it is never good to go cheap on parts with these trucks.

The best part may not be the most expensive, but it certainly won't be the cheapest.

Certain parts are recommended on here for good reason, like specific wires, plugs, coils, Tstat, etc.

You have a premium quality vehicle at a cheap price, but you still have to maintain it like a premium vehicle.