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Vibration at 73 mph?

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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 12:45 AM
  #31  
Frank4's Avatar
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,197
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From: MEMPHIS, TN
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It has become clear to me now. You can't possibly reason with someone that honestly believes that synthetic transfer case fluid and what amounts to a pretty basic tune up creates 20+mpg.

RUN YOUR TRUCK UNTIL THE LOW FUEL LIGHT COMES ON

FILL YOUR TANK

RESET YOUR ODOMETER

PUT YOUR GAS RECEIPT IN YOUR WALLET

WHEN LOW FUEL LIGHT COMES ON PULL OVER

TAKE RECEIPT OUT OF WALLET

TAKE NOTE OF # OF MILES ON ODOMETER

DIVIDE THIS # BY GALLONS OF GAS

THIS # = MPG


NOW TELL ME I AM DOING IT WRONG
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 07:24 AM
  #32  
ljdiscovery's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,227
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From: La Jolla, California
Question Fun with ZERK FITTINGS

Help, my teeth are chattering, (not really). Vibration still here around 75 mph, while reading other threads about vibrations at 75 miles per hour, all seemed to have a common issue, newly installed driveshafts. I removed and reinstalled mine myself when I bought the truck in May. The rebuild and balance was done by a quality driveline shop. I did come across something that may be the problem. Are the ZERK FITTINGS on the front driveshaft suppposed to be aligned or opposite one another? Mine are all in alignment, the front u-joint, the spline and the rear u-joint (the one closest to the flange coming out of the transfer case). Should I rotate the rear ZERK FITTING to be opposite of the ZERK FITTINGS on the front end of the driveshaft?

Sorry, no photos this morning, it is still dark and it is a nippy 45 degrees outside, supposed to be a nice 70 degrees today, with a little off-shore breeze, great day for surfing, then maybe a little work on the front driveshaft.

Thanks for all, enjoy the balance of the Thanksgiving weekend. Phil

1999 DI
2000 DII
2001 DII
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 08:07 AM
  #33  
SDinDS's Avatar
Winching
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 669
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From:
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That zerk can't weigh but maybe an ounce. I doubt that's your vibration problem. IMHO, Dunlop is not the greatest tire. Maybe take it to a tire shop and have them check each tire on the balancer. Is the rear driveshaft ok? Not sure what else could be causing a vibration at only those speeds.


Now to the other part of this thread:

Originally Posted by Frank4
our trucks have 22 gallon tanks.
Owners manual says 25 gal.


Originally Posted by ShortTom
Again my question to you guys that get ridiculous mileage: what are you doing so much better than factory to beat the EPA by 30-50%? I know EPA is an estimate based on a realistic driving mix (hills, fast starts and stops, traffic, idling etc), but that still begs the question: what are you doing different to beat a factory spec by so much?
The factory didn't put in 8mm wires, Bosch platinum plugs, and 40psi in the tires.
And I can increase my fuel economy by 2mpg by using "real" gas.... meaning no ethanol.

Eric
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 10:54 AM
  #34  
Rudnicken's Avatar
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 41
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From: Olympia, WA
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Have you gone to the tire shop to get your wheels rebalanced? That usually has worked for me when I have had problems with my vehicles.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 11:22 AM
  #35  
Spike555's Avatar
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 26,212
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From: Grand Rapids MI
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Yes if all the grease zerks are in line that will throw your drive shaft off balance.
A ounce spinning at 10,000 rpm weights alot more than a ounce.
That is what we mean when we say "clocking" a drive shaft, the zerks need to be 180* of one another.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 11:23 AM
  #36  
dcarr1971's Avatar
Winching
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 609
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From: Pittsburgh, PA USA
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Crap....well, that explains my problem with vibration starting around 73 mph too then....DOH!
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 11:32 AM
  #37  
Spike555's Avatar
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 26,212
Likes: 98
From: Grand Rapids MI
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Originally Posted by Frank4
It has become clear to me now. You can't possibly reason with someone that honestly believes that synthetic transfer case fluid and what amounts to a pretty basic tune up creates 20+mpg.

RUN YOUR TRUCK UNTIL THE LOW FUEL LIGHT COMES ON

FILL YOUR TANK

RESET YOUR ODOMETER

PUT YOUR GAS RECEIPT IN YOUR WALLET

WHEN LOW FUEL LIGHT COMES ON PULL OVER

TAKE RECEIPT OUT OF WALLET

TAKE NOTE OF # OF MILES ON ODOMETER

DIVIDE THIS # BY GALLONS OF GAS

THIS # = MPG


NOW TELL ME I AM DOING IT WRONG
Granted I went to pubilk skool and numbers are not my strong suite.
Here is how I was taught to calculate MPG.

Reset trip OD.
Fill gas tank.
Drive until you need more fuel. (no need to run to empty)
Fill the tank.
Divide the number of miles driven by the number of gallons of gas you just put in.
That will get you your MPG.
Do this at least three times in a row and you can get a average.

I average in the 14's with a roof rack, I also drive my truck like it is a underpowered 4500lb brick.
Of the 16 miles I drive each way to work 13 of it is expressway and I set the cruise at 65 and take 3 different expressways.
I also set the cruise in town, speed limit is 35, I set my cruise at 35 and stay in the right lane.
Speed limit is 25...cruise set at 25.
If people dont like it they can pass me, and I always honk and laugh when they are pulled over getting a speeding ticket a mile down the road.
And I always smile and wave at the guy in the BMW who goes flying around me every morning on the way to work just to have me pull up next to him at the stop light at the end of the exit ramp.
 
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