Vibration at 73 mph?
It has become clear to me now. You can't possibly reason with someone that honestly believes that synthetic transfer case fluid and what amounts to a pretty basic tune up creates 20+mpg.
RUN YOUR TRUCK UNTIL THE LOW FUEL LIGHT COMES ON
FILL YOUR TANK
RESET YOUR ODOMETER
PUT YOUR GAS RECEIPT IN YOUR WALLET
WHEN LOW FUEL LIGHT COMES ON PULL OVER
TAKE RECEIPT OUT OF WALLET
TAKE NOTE OF # OF MILES ON ODOMETER
DIVIDE THIS # BY GALLONS OF GAS
THIS # = MPG
NOW TELL ME I AM DOING IT WRONG
RUN YOUR TRUCK UNTIL THE LOW FUEL LIGHT COMES ON
FILL YOUR TANK
RESET YOUR ODOMETER
PUT YOUR GAS RECEIPT IN YOUR WALLET
WHEN LOW FUEL LIGHT COMES ON PULL OVER
TAKE RECEIPT OUT OF WALLET
TAKE NOTE OF # OF MILES ON ODOMETER
DIVIDE THIS # BY GALLONS OF GAS
THIS # = MPG
NOW TELL ME I AM DOING IT WRONG
Help, my teeth are chattering, (not really). Vibration still here around 75 mph, while reading other threads about vibrations at 75 miles per hour, all seemed to have a common issue, newly installed driveshafts. I removed and reinstalled mine myself when I bought the truck in May. The rebuild and balance was done by a quality driveline shop. I did come across something that may be the problem. Are the ZERK FITTINGS on the front driveshaft suppposed to be aligned or opposite one another? Mine are all in alignment, the front u-joint, the spline and the rear u-joint (the one closest to the flange coming out of the transfer case). Should I rotate the rear ZERK FITTING to be opposite of the ZERK FITTINGS on the front end of the driveshaft?
Sorry, no photos this morning, it is still dark and it is a nippy 45 degrees outside, supposed to be a nice 70 degrees today, with a little off-shore breeze, great day for surfing, then maybe a little work on the front driveshaft.
Thanks for all, enjoy the balance of the Thanksgiving weekend. Phil
1999 DI
2000 DII
2001 DII
Sorry, no photos this morning, it is still dark and it is a nippy 45 degrees outside, supposed to be a nice 70 degrees today, with a little off-shore breeze, great day for surfing, then maybe a little work on the front driveshaft.
Thanks for all, enjoy the balance of the Thanksgiving weekend. Phil
1999 DI
2000 DII
2001 DII
That zerk can't weigh but maybe an ounce. I doubt that's your vibration problem. IMHO, Dunlop is not the greatest tire. Maybe take it to a tire shop and have them check each tire on the balancer. Is the rear driveshaft ok? Not sure what else could be causing a vibration at only those speeds.
Now to the other part of this thread:
Owners manual says 25 gal.
The factory didn't put in 8mm wires, Bosch platinum plugs, and 40psi in the tires. 
And I can increase my fuel economy by 2mpg by using "real" gas.... meaning no ethanol.
Eric
Now to the other part of this thread:
Owners manual says 25 gal.
Again my question to you guys that get ridiculous mileage: what are you doing so much better than factory to beat the EPA by 30-50%? I know EPA is an estimate based on a realistic driving mix (hills, fast starts and stops, traffic, idling etc), but that still begs the question: what are you doing different to beat a factory spec by so much?

And I can increase my fuel economy by 2mpg by using "real" gas.... meaning no ethanol.

Eric
Yes if all the grease zerks are in line that will throw your drive shaft off balance.
A ounce spinning at 10,000 rpm weights alot more than a ounce.
That is what we mean when we say "clocking" a drive shaft, the zerks need to be 180* of one another.
A ounce spinning at 10,000 rpm weights alot more than a ounce.
That is what we mean when we say "clocking" a drive shaft, the zerks need to be 180* of one another.
It has become clear to me now. You can't possibly reason with someone that honestly believes that synthetic transfer case fluid and what amounts to a pretty basic tune up creates 20+mpg.
RUN YOUR TRUCK UNTIL THE LOW FUEL LIGHT COMES ON
FILL YOUR TANK
RESET YOUR ODOMETER
PUT YOUR GAS RECEIPT IN YOUR WALLET
WHEN LOW FUEL LIGHT COMES ON PULL OVER
TAKE RECEIPT OUT OF WALLET
TAKE NOTE OF # OF MILES ON ODOMETER
DIVIDE THIS # BY GALLONS OF GAS
THIS # = MPG
NOW TELL ME I AM DOING IT WRONG
RUN YOUR TRUCK UNTIL THE LOW FUEL LIGHT COMES ON
FILL YOUR TANK
RESET YOUR ODOMETER
PUT YOUR GAS RECEIPT IN YOUR WALLET
WHEN LOW FUEL LIGHT COMES ON PULL OVER
TAKE RECEIPT OUT OF WALLET
TAKE NOTE OF # OF MILES ON ODOMETER
DIVIDE THIS # BY GALLONS OF GAS
THIS # = MPG
NOW TELL ME I AM DOING IT WRONG
Here is how I was taught to calculate MPG.
Reset trip OD.
Fill gas tank.
Drive until you need more fuel. (no need to run to empty)
Fill the tank.
Divide the number of miles driven by the number of gallons of gas you just put in.
That will get you your MPG.
Do this at least three times in a row and you can get a average.
I average in the 14's with a roof rack, I also drive my truck like it is a underpowered 4500lb brick.
Of the 16 miles I drive each way to work 13 of it is expressway and I set the cruise at 65 and take 3 different expressways.
I also set the cruise in town, speed limit is 35, I set my cruise at 35 and stay in the right lane.
Speed limit is 25...cruise set at 25.
If people dont like it they can pass me, and I always honk and laugh when they are pulled over getting a speeding ticket a mile down the road.
And I always smile and wave at the guy in the BMW who goes flying around me every morning on the way to work just to have me pull up next to him at the stop light at the end of the exit ramp.
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