it doesn't matter how many years it sat somehow it got 120k miles on it.

this is what a LR u-joint looks like after 70k and this one had grease fittings.

but that's ok trannys and transfer cases are cheap aren't they, I think it's the hole the driveshaft rips in the floor that cost so much to replace.

 

Take front shaft out and lock CDL (if you have the spud on the transfer case or new linkage for same) and drive - that will tell the tale.

 

I believe it's the 4 nuts you have to replace after it explodes that cost the most. You can get used transmissions for as low as $1k, and labor? Well labor is only 10-16 hours so no worries there!

 

Haha. Bunch of comedians! Thanks for all of the suggestions. I am chasing it down and will post the cure.

 

I don't have the linkage but that is a planned upgrade. If CDL is locked and I have wobble that means what?

 

Well I figured it out. Tire. I rotated them again and checked the pressure. These are Toyo Open Country M/T's. I'm driving on the highway now drinking my Starbucks because the vibration is much less and coming from the back now. I checked the pressure and they were at 24 pounds from the tire shop, so I went crazy and pumped them to 45. Big change. I'd say I probably lost a balance weight on Louisiana s fine roads. So I'm going to go get them rebalanced. Then I'll do the chalk test and find the right pressure.

With all if the talk of Driveshaft does anyone care to suggest a good great able HD front Driveshaft? Also, the retooled was suggested as a culprit. I liked at mine from underneath and didn't see any cracks or wear but it does have 120k on it. Can anyone tell me whether there is something better?

EDIT: all of the foregoing turns out to be wrong. I got on a very smooth patch of road and was able to determine that there is a slight vibration under acceleration at all speeds. For you doctors out there, I also hear a squeak in the front end (sounds like a baby bird) that increases in frequency at low speeds until it goes away at about 20 mph. That's a new and unwelcome change from last Friday. Brakes do not wobble so I don't think it is a rotor and I haven't done any crazy braking since last week anyway. Does this spur any thoughts, gurus? Or does it sound like an unrelated pile on by cruel coincidence?

 

I don't know if this helps any. I changed the transfer case oil, finding no serious metal on the plug. I re checked all joints underneath and didn't find anything loose. Still have the vibration. I got a deaf friend to ride with me... He is good at isolating vibrations. He said he felt it under the passenger footwell. I then noticed the squeaking again, at low speeds, rising in frequency to about 15 mph when I couldn't hear it anymore. Then I noticed that the squeaking stops the moment I take my foot off the accelerator. Starts right back up when I give it some gas. Then the vibration sets in. I think this points to bad u joints. Any thoughts?

 

The front prop shaft makes the chirping sound just before it snaps and beats the transmission to a pulp. Rebuild article in our tech area in the D1 forum. Less than $100 in parts.

 

no it not his drive shaft he's already check that

 

Thanks, Savannah. That's exactly what I will do.